ARP Rod bolts for E36 M3 who's got them fitted
Discussion
I keep reading about E36 M3 engines destroying themselves due to Rod bolts stretching or breaking at high RPM, yet another casualty of a dead M3 engine of a guy over on Passionford who has had the Rod bolts fail scrapping the whole bottom end. Am i getting paraniod about not taking my M3 Evo over 7k on trackdays. I can do most things myself but would not attempt to remove & refit new rod bolts. Is this mainly just removal of the sump to fit ARP bolts or is it more involved, any special tools needed, i'm trying to gauge what sort of labour time i should be looking at. Can anyone point me in the right direction of where to buy ARP bolts for my Evo & is it a wise move to fit them asap if i'm doing trackdays ?
Thanks Simon.
Thanks Simon.
Try www.bimmerworld.com , they list them for the S50.
They are based in the states but I have bought a fuel starvation kit (twin fuel pumps) from them for my track E36 M3 and it turned up quickly and fitted fine (explained it was for a euro E36, and it was no problem).
Be careful though...they have lots of nice stuff
They are based in the states but I have bought a fuel starvation kit (twin fuel pumps) from them for my track E36 M3 and it turned up quickly and fitted fine (explained it was for a euro E36, and it was no problem).
Be careful though...they have lots of nice stuff
I have just bought some from here; http://www.xlraceparts.com/arp-uprated-conrod-bolt...
I am likely to do the shells and replace the oil pump at the same time.
Ian
I am likely to do the shells and replace the oil pump at the same time.
Ian
Slightly off topic, however my personal advice for track day enjoyment.
Track days are not race days. They are about enjoyment rather than setting lap records. They are about enjoying your (typically) road car in a speed limit free environment.
I've been in friends cars on track where they get the red mist, and instantly assume that they must ring every gear to the limiter, and snap shift as if every wasted millisecond depended on it. It's your car to do with as you want, however I'd personally advise giving your car a gentler time. I'm not advocating wearing stringback driving gloves and pretending miss Daisy is monitoring your driving from behind, however just to give your car a bit of mechanical sympathy when you are on track. I happily sacrifice the 20 metres of track that I "lose" be shifting 1k early, and moving the gears steadily and cleanly up and down the ratios. I also prefer to brake slightly earlier and more progressively, rather than bonfire a set of brakes everytime I take to the circuit.
The fun is in the corners anyway
Track days are not race days. They are about enjoyment rather than setting lap records. They are about enjoying your (typically) road car in a speed limit free environment.
I've been in friends cars on track where they get the red mist, and instantly assume that they must ring every gear to the limiter, and snap shift as if every wasted millisecond depended on it. It's your car to do with as you want, however I'd personally advise giving your car a gentler time. I'm not advocating wearing stringback driving gloves and pretending miss Daisy is monitoring your driving from behind, however just to give your car a bit of mechanical sympathy when you are on track. I happily sacrifice the 20 metres of track that I "lose" be shifting 1k early, and moving the gears steadily and cleanly up and down the ratios. I also prefer to brake slightly earlier and more progressively, rather than bonfire a set of brakes everytime I take to the circuit.
The fun is in the corners anyway
mat205125 said:
Slightly off topic, however my personal advice for track day enjoyment.
Track days are not race days. They are about enjoyment rather than setting lap records. They are about enjoying your (typically) road car in a speed limit free environment.
I've been in friends cars on track where they get the red mist, and instantly assume that they must ring every gear to the limiter, and snap shift as if every wasted millisecond depended on it. It's your car to do with as you want, however I'd personally advise giving your car a gentler time. I'm not advocating wearing stringback driving gloves and pretending miss Daisy is monitoring your driving from behind, however just to give your car a bit of mechanical sympathy when you are on track. I happily sacrifice the 20 metres of track that I "lose" be shifting 1k early, and moving the gears steadily and cleanly up and down the ratios. I also prefer to brake slightly earlier and more progressively, rather than bonfire a set of brakes everytime I take to the circuit.
The fun is in the corners anyway
The OP was asking about ARP Conrod bolts, why the patronizing lecture on track day etiquette? Track days are not race days. They are about enjoyment rather than setting lap records. They are about enjoying your (typically) road car in a speed limit free environment.
I've been in friends cars on track where they get the red mist, and instantly assume that they must ring every gear to the limiter, and snap shift as if every wasted millisecond depended on it. It's your car to do with as you want, however I'd personally advise giving your car a gentler time. I'm not advocating wearing stringback driving gloves and pretending miss Daisy is monitoring your driving from behind, however just to give your car a bit of mechanical sympathy when you are on track. I happily sacrifice the 20 metres of track that I "lose" be shifting 1k early, and moving the gears steadily and cleanly up and down the ratios. I also prefer to brake slightly earlier and more progressively, rather than bonfire a set of brakes everytime I take to the circuit.
The fun is in the corners anyway
Toilet Duck said:
The OP was asking about ARP Conrod bolts, why the patronizing lecture on track day etiquette?
In no way intended to be patronising, and not related to etiquette in any way.Whilst I'm not trying to disuade the OP from exploring whatever tuning/engineering direction they like, I was simply trying to suggest that there can often be alternative solutions or courses of action that can avoid problems or situations.
In this case I was suggesting that a more relaxed approach on the track could yield just as much fun (which is what track days are all about), and save a potentially large bill that could be used in other changes to the car rather than on the engine.
Thanks, XLraceparts looks like i will be buying a set from them, i have used XL before but forgot about them !
Does anyone know the part number for the shells from BMW or how much they are for a set ?
I will wait until the oil service is due in a couple of months & get it all done together whilst oil is changed.
Simon.
Does anyone know the part number for the shells from BMW or how much they are for a set ?
I will wait until the oil service is due in a couple of months & get it all done together whilst oil is changed.
Simon.
1ians said:
Anyone got any advice on where to get an oil pump from? I am gettting prices off around £400!
Indeed evo oil pump is that ££. is considerably less for a 3.0 but if you are a 3.0 owner as i am & scared that the single pick up is really not up to tracky slick action then its evo sump again cira £400 from bmw, but ebay was my friend there, & evo/GT oil plus the ARP bolts & shells & the motorsport head restrictor, add it all up- ouch! taffyracer said:
cosworth330 said:
Thanks, XLraceparts looks like i will be buying a set from them, i have used XL before but forgot about them !
Happy to do a deal, just give us a shout, if the engine is being stressed in any way then a bottom end rebuild with ARP bolts is highly recommendedGassing Station | M Power | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff