Leaking radiator
Discussion
I had a small leak coming from my radiator. It was leaking from the drivers side at the top corner.
I took it to a company for repair and they said they fixed it and then pressure tested it. I looked at the repair and it just looks like araldite glue was used, I thought they'd solder it or something.
Anyway it started leaking again after a week so I'm back where I started.
A new rad from noble is £550 but Pro-alloy can do one for £450. Does anyone have the pro-alloy rad?
I took it to a company for repair and they said they fixed it and then pressure tested it. I looked at the repair and it just looks like araldite glue was used, I thought they'd solder it or something.
Anyway it started leaking again after a week so I'm back where I started.
A new rad from noble is £550 but Pro-alloy can do one for £450. Does anyone have the pro-alloy rad?
jamie g said:
I had a small leak coming from my radiator. It was leaking from the drivers side at the top corner.
I took it to a company for repair and they said they fixed it and then pressure tested it. I looked at the repair and it just looks like araldite glue was used, I thought they'd solder it or something.
Anyway it started leaking again after a week so I'm back where I started.
A new rad from noble is £550 but Pro-alloy can do one for £450. Does anyone have the pro-alloy rad?
Common problem -once you start fixing leaks, you immediately start chasing others. Can end up losing half the core! Seen the new Pro-Alloy one; v well made and looks the bizz (not that you can see them once they are in). On the basis of all their other work I'd say it's a good investment.I took it to a company for repair and they said they fixed it and then pressure tested it. I looked at the repair and it just looks like araldite glue was used, I thought they'd solder it or something.
Anyway it started leaking again after a week so I'm back where I started.
A new rad from noble is £550 but Pro-alloy can do one for £450. Does anyone have the pro-alloy rad?
AMG Merc said:
What about sending it to a rad shop for re-coring/reparing properly - must be cheaper and will be as good as new. 
As good as a new Noble radiator after the end tanks have been hacked off a new core fitted, and then welded back together.or a brand new radiator with a higher efficiency core for not a lot more money
GTO400 said:
Don't waste time and money on repair unless it can be aluminum welded, the Pro Alloy one is a lot better quality and it fits & works perfectly.
Alex had them made originally so might be worth contacting him just in case he has a spare one.
Alex had the Pace ones made, mine fell apart (not his fault)their attitude to warranty work was very strange.Alex had them made originally so might be worth contacting him just in case he has a spare one.
Just picked up my new radiator(thanks to Mr Winch for the heads up yet again good ole boi, wife officially hates you now she's missed out on another shopping trip to Harrods), header tank,hardpipe kit and breather tank from the lads at Pro Alloy ,true workmanship, the rad is a major improvement on build quality over the original and so well priced (thanks for such a good deal Wayne and Alex) , and the rest of the goodies well they will add porn value to the engine bay when it finally goes back together again hopefully this year
.
.Gents, I would like to offer some "feedback" from the other side of the pond,......... ya know, from a yank.
I had a similar issue with my 3R radiator last year, which took some time to find. Turns out, as someone here noted, this is a "common" issue. The "why" of the issue often, but not always, is the radiator fins / tubes connection to the side tanks. At this point of connection, and due to the fact the radiator is "hard" fixed between the front chassis frames, the unit "absorbs" or is subject to some chassis flex, especially so as the car ages or is tracked and the radiator is only aluminum after all, so flexes. In fact this has been seen even on relatively brand new Nobles.
So, that leads to "what is a potential fix ?" In my case, as with others over here, we either bought, or had made replacement units. Some, like I, went with a "uprated" custom unit which were made as one off's or in limited quantities, and which are in fact "dual pass" units which are only slightly thicker by about .75 inches, with the same width and height. On a pure street Noble, probably not needed, but sure helps keeps things cool on track. In that neck of the woods, it may prove to be over kill, and a partial "block" plate would be needed in really cool weather to allow the engine to come up to proper temps.
The other very important factor we accomplished in "the fix", was to soft mount the new unit, and not firmly, or hard fixed as the stock unit is, thereby eliminating the chassis flex inducing stress on the soft aluminum radiator. In my case, we simply installed a basic "U" channel in Alum upside down for the bottom of the radiator to sit down into, with some non absorbant rubber to avoid noises, or chaffing. Then at the top, we installed a "L" piece of Alum to restrain the top edge. Result ? Simply slide it in, or out when disconnected, and no more chassis flex transferring to the unit affecting the tube to tank connection. With any variation of that design I have not seen or heard of any further radiator failures.
The other bonus item accomplished at the same time, was the fitment of a proper drain cock when the new radiators were built, with access holes opened up in the bottom pan to allow easy access. Again simple, but brilliant.
Hope the feedback helps, it sure has saved me future headaches for minimal time and expense !
Cheers !
I had a similar issue with my 3R radiator last year, which took some time to find. Turns out, as someone here noted, this is a "common" issue. The "why" of the issue often, but not always, is the radiator fins / tubes connection to the side tanks. At this point of connection, and due to the fact the radiator is "hard" fixed between the front chassis frames, the unit "absorbs" or is subject to some chassis flex, especially so as the car ages or is tracked and the radiator is only aluminum after all, so flexes. In fact this has been seen even on relatively brand new Nobles.
So, that leads to "what is a potential fix ?" In my case, as with others over here, we either bought, or had made replacement units. Some, like I, went with a "uprated" custom unit which were made as one off's or in limited quantities, and which are in fact "dual pass" units which are only slightly thicker by about .75 inches, with the same width and height. On a pure street Noble, probably not needed, but sure helps keeps things cool on track. In that neck of the woods, it may prove to be over kill, and a partial "block" plate would be needed in really cool weather to allow the engine to come up to proper temps.
The other very important factor we accomplished in "the fix", was to soft mount the new unit, and not firmly, or hard fixed as the stock unit is, thereby eliminating the chassis flex inducing stress on the soft aluminum radiator. In my case, we simply installed a basic "U" channel in Alum upside down for the bottom of the radiator to sit down into, with some non absorbant rubber to avoid noises, or chaffing. Then at the top, we installed a "L" piece of Alum to restrain the top edge. Result ? Simply slide it in, or out when disconnected, and no more chassis flex transferring to the unit affecting the tube to tank connection. With any variation of that design I have not seen or heard of any further radiator failures.
The other bonus item accomplished at the same time, was the fitment of a proper drain cock when the new radiators were built, with access holes opened up in the bottom pan to allow easy access. Again simple, but brilliant.
Hope the feedback helps, it sure has saved me future headaches for minimal time and expense !
Cheers !
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