bottom pulley sleve/over crank, tips on fitting needed
Discussion
this sleve is the one that slips over the crank and the bottom pulley bols to it. the sleeve has the groove in it for the woodruff key.
i had to use a hub puller to get the darn thing off. now tonight i went to put it on so i put a blob of grease on the wood ruff key to hold it in its recess on the crank. i smeared grease on the shaft and on the inside of the sleeve. pushed it on so far and the rest needed persuasion with a mallet but its only going so for. its a mega tight fit and needed lots of persuasion to get it so far. i have about half an inch to go but i feel that the woodruff key has moved and is going to hold the sleeve off flush.
so i am going to pull it back off over the holidays and superglue the woodruff key in its recess. but how do others get their sleeves on? should i bung it in the oven for a few hours to open it up a bit and then quickly slip it on and tap it home?
really bugging me the tighness of the pulley/ crank sleeve. so any pointers appreciated.
i had to use a hub puller to get the darn thing off. now tonight i went to put it on so i put a blob of grease on the wood ruff key to hold it in its recess on the crank. i smeared grease on the shaft and on the inside of the sleeve. pushed it on so far and the rest needed persuasion with a mallet but its only going so for. its a mega tight fit and needed lots of persuasion to get it so far. i have about half an inch to go but i feel that the woodruff key has moved and is going to hold the sleeve off flush.
so i am going to pull it back off over the holidays and superglue the woodruff key in its recess. but how do others get their sleeves on? should i bung it in the oven for a few hours to open it up a bit and then quickly slip it on and tap it home?
really bugging me the tighness of the pulley/ crank sleeve. so any pointers appreciated.
use some fine emery cloth and make sure thast there are no marks or burrs on the shaft, also check the inside bore of the sleeve and do a trial fit without the woodruff key, you should not need to use a mallet to do this without the key in place, also a squirt of wd40 helps, once you know you have a good sliding fit then fit the key and gently tap the sleeve home.
bloody hell clive (incase you didn't know i changed my forum name to PlumAJP, its shayne)
i think its going to call for a slight sand with emery cloth and tril fit with no key. but i can see it not sliding on and needing to be slammed.
one question : i have tapped the sleve with a hammer and slipped on one of the hits and sort of dented the metal on the edge of the selve face. will this cause vibrations or not? should i have this machined back to balance to eliminate crank vibrations and possible snapping?
also with the woodruff key, does the dome shape of the key sit in the recess and the flat edge sit upwards to slide in the grove?
on my key i have a flat back and a wedge at the front which way round does this go? wedge to front and flat to back
i think its going to call for a slight sand with emery cloth and tril fit with no key. but i can see it not sliding on and needing to be slammed.
one question : i have tapped the sleve with a hammer and slipped on one of the hits and sort of dented the metal on the edge of the selve face. will this cause vibrations or not? should i have this machined back to balance to eliminate crank vibrations and possible snapping?
also with the woodruff key, does the dome shape of the key sit in the recess and the flat edge sit upwards to slide in the grove?
on my key i have a flat back and a wedge at the front which way round does this go? wedge to front and flat to back
plumAJP said:
one question : i have tapped the sleeve with a hammer and slipped on one of the hits and sort of dented the metal on the edge of the sleeve face. Will this cause vibrations or not? Should i have this machined back to balance to eliminate crank vibrations and possible snapping?
also with the woodruff key, does the dome shape of the key sit in the recess and the flat edge sit upwards to slide in the grove?
on my key i have a flat back and a wedge at the front which way round does this go? wedge to front and flat to back
I can't see that you'll need to machine the sleeve again unless you've really nastied it, just clean up any marks with some emery paper. But note for the future - DON'T HIT METAL ENGINE PARTS WITH A METAL HAMMER! - Use a block of wood to protect italso with the woodruff key, does the dome shape of the key sit in the recess and the flat edge sit upwards to slide in the grove?
on my key i have a flat back and a wedge at the front which way round does this go? wedge to front and flat to back
The curved side of the key sits in the shaft as you said, however, I don't know end is the front.
I'd definately make sure that you've cleaned the whole thing up before trying it again. You really don't want to be walloping the cr@p out of your engine with a hammer. As you said, once you have prepared it there's no harm in putting the sleeve in the oven for a while, however, you also need to think about how you're ever going to get it apart agin (not that you'll need to I'm sure!)
i did clean it right up and greased it all. but its mega tight. it was mega tight before and i had to use a hub puller to extract it. it was so tight that when i was winding in the bolt on the hub extractor it was tunring the engine over.
on the flange i can see marks where its been heated before with a flame so perhaps this is why its so tight?
on the flange i can see marks where its been heated before with a flame so perhaps this is why its so tight?
Shayne, I can't see any reason for the sleeve to be that tight. I think I'd be trying to ream it out slightly so that it is a tight push fit rather than a tight hammer fit.
The only reason for it needing to be tight tight when cold is if the sleev and the shaft are made of different materials which would expand at a different rate and cause the whole thing to be loose when getting hot - but I don't think that's the case here is it?
The only reason for it needing to be tight tight when cold is if the sleev and the shaft are made of different materials which would expand at a different rate and cause the whole thing to be loose when getting hot - but I don't think that's the case here is it?
hi Shayne, only use a rubber or soft copper faced mallet to tap it with!
mine required the use of a hub puller to remove it, it had been fitted before by some numpty with a sledge hammer by looking at the briusing left on it, and the broken roller bearings and cracked timing cover behind it!!
machined close fit tolerances only need the slightest of marks or burrs on them to make it an impossible fit, dont go to the extent of reaming the sleeve or you may find that it is then too loose on the shaft, just use some fine emery cloth and rub the shaft over and thoroughly clean the bore of the sleeve, it should all be perfectly smooth.
the key, the raduis face should sit into the shaft, with the flat face going into the sleeve, make sure your key is also clean and burr free.
to add, don`t use grease, use a thin oil or wd40, it will slide better with a thinner lubricant.
mine required the use of a hub puller to remove it, it had been fitted before by some numpty with a sledge hammer by looking at the briusing left on it, and the broken roller bearings and cracked timing cover behind it!!
machined close fit tolerances only need the slightest of marks or burrs on them to make it an impossible fit, dont go to the extent of reaming the sleeve or you may find that it is then too loose on the shaft, just use some fine emery cloth and rub the shaft over and thoroughly clean the bore of the sleeve, it should all be perfectly smooth.
the key, the raduis face should sit into the shaft, with the flat face going into the sleeve, make sure your key is also clean and burr free.
to add, don`t use grease, use a thin oil or wd40, it will slide better with a thinner lubricant.
Edited by clive f on Thursday 9th April 12:49
ok will use ub40 or some oil.
ill have a go at emerying the shaft tonight and see how it fits then.
i did tap it with a rubber mallet first but it just wasnt enough welly behind it to press it on, so i used the metal hammer then and it had to bruise the metal didn't it.
Shall let you know how i get on tonight
ill have a go at emerying the shaft tonight and see how it fits then.
i did tap it with a rubber mallet first but it just wasnt enough welly behind it to press it on, so i used the metal hammer then and it had to bruise the metal didn't it.
Shall let you know how i get on tonight
just come back from the garage. i extracted the sleeve and noticed the wood ruff key was not seated properly and was pointing vertical instead of horizontal.
i had a peak inside where the rollers are and the outer roller has been broken and mangled by the sleeve.
so i have to order a new outer/larger roller and a new crank oil seal. it looks like the spring around the crank seal caught on the sleeve and my hammering just dragged the spring into the roller's face and snapped it and chewed the insides. bas_tard engine
i had a peak inside where the rollers are and the outer roller has been broken and mangled by the sleeve.
so i have to order a new outer/larger roller and a new crank oil seal. it looks like the spring around the crank seal caught on the sleeve and my hammering just dragged the spring into the roller's face and snapped it and chewed the insides. bas_tard engine
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