One step forward two back!

[Mr Tank]

Hi

Well fitted new flywheel and rebuilt clucth. Car started better than ever!

At last its sorted!

No!

Clutch will not disengage! So cannot get a gear. Start car in gear with clutch pedel down! Car stated Ok. Just liftted pedel no more than half and inch and its off! But you can't get it out of gear!

Then I realised the charge light is on and the rev counter is not working. I changed the big fuse as a matter of course when replacing the sarter so it must be the alternator.

What a good start to the Easter weekend!

Has anyone any idea what's the fault on the clutch and how big a job is the alternator and what is the alternators number?

Thanks in advance.

Andy

P.S. At least I made some progress on the 350i rebuild today! Only the doors to fit and then MOT time!

[brogenville]

It seems strange that your alternator picked this exact time to quit, but I guess you could just be very unlucky.

As far as your clutch problems go, I would probably go back and bleed the system some more. Its seriously easy to leave a small pocket of air in the system, especially if you're not vacuum bleeding, which I'm told is a virtual necessity to bleed the cerb clutch properly. I take it you made sure to orientate the slave bleed holes at 6 and 12 o'clock? Lastly I would look at adjusting the pedal linkage- it may be currently wound in so your not getting the full travel of the master cylinder.

HTH

[shpub]

It's the clutch slave/clutch plate/flywheel spacing. Went through this with the LS Cerb. There are variations in the bell housing/clutch/flywheel so that some combinations do not work while others require too much slave movement. With too much movement, a collar can often sort it out.

You did use the low profile button head bolts to bolt the flywheel to the crank. Normal bolts will stop the clutch from moving fully with some flywheels.

[stu21t]

If your manually bleeding the clutch that's your problem.
Get yourself to halfrauds and buy an eazi-bleed kit. It's a very simple pressure bleeding system that works off tyre pressure, only costs £12 and will deff sort out the clutch troubles.
Don't know about the other probs I'm afraid, I assume you know how to test for an alternator fault?

[esso]

As mentioned above,try adjusting the pedal linkage,i had a similar issue when i did mine and this worked + its the easiest thing to try before doing anything else.

[Mr Tank]

Thanks for all the advice.

The clutch is the same clutch just had the plates relined, plus new seals in the slave. The flywheel is a identical replacment for the original even used the same bolts! So will try the linkage and re-bleed for the tenth time and see what has happens!

Re alternator will do the usual checks, how big a job is it and anyone no it's id num etc!
O! while I am at that best change the belt any idea on that id num! Or is it on to TVR Carparts Tue morning!

O! well back to the "Wedge" rebuild!

Andy

[ridds]

New linings too thick maybe?

Is that what Kostas suffered from?

[QuiteQuietCerb]

hi, yes i had a very similar problem when i relined my friction plates too think. The mechanic shaved of a mm or so (down to 6.3mm i think) and the clutch worked fine after that.