Are Haynes nines crap?
Discussion
This is me earlier. SItting at the top of a short but steep decent.
My haynes nines would not hold me at the top at all. with all my hand strengh it just kept squeeking forward. So my question is, are they all this rubbish or is there something wrong with my brakes?
They seem so much worth than my old XT Vs?
Ps. this is the bike
Your pads are contaminated, or something else is seriously wrong.
Lots of people will wade in saying Hayes Nines/Disc brakes are rubbish.
Nines may not be the BESt system out there, but trust me, if you hold the view that your V-brakes were more powerful, then yours have a fault.
This is a topic that comes up time, and time again on this board.
What does the lever feel like - Hayes levers when correctly bled are rock solid...
If it is - your pads/discs are contaminated.
Lots of people will wade in saying Hayes Nines/Disc brakes are rubbish.
Nines may not be the BESt system out there, but trust me, if you hold the view that your V-brakes were more powerful, then yours have a fault.
This is a topic that comes up time, and time again on this board.
What does the lever feel like - Hayes levers when correctly bled are rock solid...
If it is - your pads/discs are contaminated.
snotrag said:
Your pads are contaminated, or something else is seriously wrong.
Lots of people will wade in saying Hayes Nines/Disc brakes are rubbish.
Nines may not be the BESt system out there, but trust me, if you hold the view that your V-brakes were more powerful, then yours have a fault.
This is a topic that comes up time, and time again on this board.
What does the lever feel like - Hayes levers when correctly bled are rock solid...
If it is - your pads/discs are contaminated.
Im not to sure on the contaminiation, the bike doesnt do a lot of miles really. I know this sounds dumb but it almost pulsed back going down the hill on me. My mate i was riding with said they feel hard to him, but i think they are a tad spongy. do they need bleeding annually or is it only if you open them up?Lots of people will wade in saying Hayes Nines/Disc brakes are rubbish.
Nines may not be the BESt system out there, but trust me, if you hold the view that your V-brakes were more powerful, then yours have a fault.
This is a topic that comes up time, and time again on this board.
What does the lever feel like - Hayes levers when correctly bled are rock solid...
If it is - your pads/discs are contaminated.
He thinks the leaver isnt pulling far enough before the brakes start to bite, but i think this shouldnt matter with hydraulics?
LP
Yes, disc brakes (particularly those using DOT fluid) do need bleeding periodically.
The lever should be rock solid. Hayes should self adjust as t ogive about 2cm of lever travel at the end.
If you've had the wheels out and caught the levers this can affect the lever throw.
To put it simply - given enough traction at the tyre - a Handful of brake on a Hayes nine, or any other hydraulic syste, when properly setup, should be enough to send you base over apex. If you feel they dont offer this power, something is up.
The First step is this - Go out side to the shed, make sure your bike is not upside down. Take 2 zipties, and clamp both levers down over night.
Check the lever throw/feel in the morning.
The lever should be rock solid. Hayes should self adjust as t ogive about 2cm of lever travel at the end.
If you've had the wheels out and caught the levers this can affect the lever throw.
To put it simply - given enough traction at the tyre - a Handful of brake on a Hayes nine, or any other hydraulic syste, when properly setup, should be enough to send you base over apex. If you feel they dont offer this power, something is up.
The First step is this - Go out side to the shed, make sure your bike is not upside down. Take 2 zipties, and clamp both levers down over night.
Check the lever throw/feel in the morning.
like the car, pads on bike make most difference. i found bleeding hayes nine very tricky to do.
Throw away the hayes bleeding instruction.
1) get a syringe with, flexiable tubing and connector at the end, with dot 4 fluid,
2)point the bleed fill hole upward on leveler, put the connectors on leveler's fillhole, open the cailper bolt, with tube on bleed nipple and a bottle to catch the fluid coming off,
3) inject the syringe, until it really _flowing_. no dripping from cailper bleed nipple, close it.
4) give leveler couple of strokes, then draw out the syringe. slow as you can, you see bubbles coming, stroke the leveler as you extract the bubbles. then inject it. repeat that cycle until you see no bubbles.
5) then put the pin back onto fill hole. wipe the excess fluid on bike and everything if you are unlucky.
job done.
you should have soild leveler, it shouldnt feel like "popping" effect as you squeeze the leveler. if it does, it still have few air remians inside, and If it feel spongey, try again.
Throw away the hayes bleeding instruction.
1) get a syringe with, flexiable tubing and connector at the end, with dot 4 fluid,
2)point the bleed fill hole upward on leveler, put the connectors on leveler's fillhole, open the cailper bolt, with tube on bleed nipple and a bottle to catch the fluid coming off,
3) inject the syringe, until it really _flowing_. no dripping from cailper bleed nipple, close it.
4) give leveler couple of strokes, then draw out the syringe. slow as you can, you see bubbles coming, stroke the leveler as you extract the bubbles. then inject it. repeat that cycle until you see no bubbles.
5) then put the pin back onto fill hole. wipe the excess fluid on bike and everything if you are unlucky.
job done.
you should have soild leveler, it shouldnt feel like "popping" effect as you squeeze the leveler. if it does, it still have few air remians inside, and If it feel spongey, try again.
I've been impressed with my 9s, I've had Hope DH4s and Hope C2s in the past, going back about 7 years here!
I've had my 9s for about 3 years and only recently the rear one became very hard and rubbed all the time. I let out a bit of fluid ad it's fine again. I don't know what caused it though!
I've had my 9s for about 3 years and only recently the rear one became very hard and rubbed all the time. I let out a bit of fluid ad it's fine again. I don't know what caused it though!
My 9's where ok up until my 3rd trip to the alps where they just didnt have the same feel as previous. That was more to do with age then anything else tho. I am using Moto V2's now and they are a much better break, thye also cost a fair amount more then the Hayes as well so its all relative.
BOR said:
Pike, you will need to do at least 20 hard stops to bed the new pads into the disc. Without doing this, they will feel weak.
(After you do this, don't be tempted to touch the discs with your bare fingers "to see if they are hot yet....." Just.Don't)
(After you do this, don't be tempted to touch the discs with your bare fingers "to see if they are hot yet....." Just.Don't)
I have done that far to many times and i stil don't learn. Should be deliverd by the end of the week in time for a ride around Chiemsee.I use panel wipe to clean my rotors - I have it for detailing purposes - but I got some [cheaper] Brake and Clutch cleaner as I was using the Panel Wipe up on my rotors! I paid £10 for a 5-litre tin of Brake and Clutch cleaner. Alternatively, you can get an aerosol of Brake Cleaner from your LBS or Motor Factors.
BOR said:
Pike, you will need to do at least 20 hard stops to bed the new pads into the disc. Without doing this, they will feel weak.
(After you do this, don't be tempted to touch the discs with your bare fingers "to see if they are hot yet....." Just.Don't)
Good to get them wet during the breaking as well. (After you do this, don't be tempted to touch the discs with your bare fingers "to see if they are hot yet....." Just.Don't)
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