Sealed system Rad - need to take out for 4 days
Discussion
I'm having my place painted and need to take out a rad out of a sealed system (It's too close to the wall to get behind and paint in any way shape or form.
Does it matter that it's on a sealed system?
I have thermostatic rad valves on the radiator, so can I just close them off and take off the radiator (Obviously catching all the water from the radiator?
Assuming this is all ok, when I put it back, do I need to do anything clever to re-fit the radiator and topping up the system?
Hope this makes sense?
T-J-K
just thought, do I need to drain the whole system?
Does it matter that it's on a sealed system?
I have thermostatic rad valves on the radiator, so can I just close them off and take off the radiator (Obviously catching all the water from the radiator?
Assuming this is all ok, when I put it back, do I need to do anything clever to re-fit the radiator and topping up the system?
Hope this makes sense?
T-J-K
just thought, do I need to drain the whole system?
Edited by The jiffle king on Friday 17th April 16:25
Turn both valves off. Paint roller tray under each valve to catch any spills and undo the nuts which attach the rad to the valve.
Take rad off and drain in bucket you have nearby. You did get a bucket didnt you?
Once decorating has been done.
Put rad back on brackets, tighten nuts and open valves. Check valves for leaks.
Assuming no leaks open bleed valve until water squirts out indicating rad is full.
Go to boiler, check pressure gauge. Top up to about 1 bar if required.
Job done.
Take rad off and drain in bucket you have nearby. You did get a bucket didnt you?
Once decorating has been done.
Put rad back on brackets, tighten nuts and open valves. Check valves for leaks.
Assuming no leaks open bleed valve until water squirts out indicating rad is full.
Go to boiler, check pressure gauge. Top up to about 1 bar if required.
Job done.
The jiffle king said:
I'm having my place painted and need to take out a rad out of a sealed system (It's too close to the wall to get behind and paint in any way shape or form.
Have you thought of using a mini-roller to get behind the radiator? It's unusual for it be so close as not to be able to mini-roll behind (waits for countless number of folk reporting the lack of clearance behind theirs). 
dirkgently said:
mechsympathy said:
B17NNS said:
Take rad off and drain in bucket you have nearby.
If you're feeling brave (and quick) you can undo the rad, lift it off and turn it over in one smooth movement with minimal loss...
Ferg said:
dirkgently said:
mechsympathy said:
B17NNS said:
Take rad off and drain in bucket you have nearby.
If you're feeling brave (and quick) you can undo the rad, lift it off and turn it over in one smooth movement with minimal loss...
Gingerbread Man said:
Ferg said:
I think I'd cap off the thermostatic valve, just in case....
Aye, just in case it gets very cold and it opens up to save freezing.My Dad didn't a little while ago and it's resulted in having most of downstairs redecorated/new carpet and a new floor upstairs when he put his foot through it!
pmanson said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Ferg said:
I think I'd cap off the thermostatic valve, just in case....
Aye, just in case it gets very cold and it opens up to save freezing.My Dad didn't a little while ago and it's resulted in having most of downstairs redecorated/new carpet and a new floor upstairs when he put his foot through it!
However - if you've never topped up your sealed system before make sure you have a filling loops and can top it up first (to replace the lost pressure). You may not need too however if it's only a small rad with good pressure in the system.
However #2 - do you actually need to remove the rad? Sometimes you can simply slacken off the nuts a smidgen, gently lift the rad off the bracket, and lie it flat at 90deg to the wall, still connected. Depends on how much slack you have on the plumbing, size of rad etc. Make sure you can catch drips anyway.
VxDuncan said:
pmanson said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Ferg said:
I think I'd cap off the thermostatic valve, just in case....
Aye, just in case it gets very cold and it opens up to save freezing.My Dad didn't a little while ago and it's resulted in having most of downstairs redecorated/new carpet and a new floor upstairs when he put his foot through it!
However - if you've never topped up your sealed system before make sure you have a filling loops and can top it up first (to replace the lost pressure). You may not need too however if it's only a small rad with good pressure in the system.
However #2 - do you actually need to remove the rad? Sometimes you can simply slacken off the nuts a smidgen, gently lift the rad off the bracket, and lie it flat at 90deg to the wall, still connected. Depends on how much slack you have on the plumbing, size of rad etc. Make sure you can catch drips anyway.
As said, you may not need to drain the whole system down. Let off the pressure at the pressure relief valve. Then turn off both ends.
You might want a friend to help, but you should be able to slacken off the nuts both ends, quickly get your thumbs over the rad and turn it over as mentioned above. Carry the rad out with thumbs still in place and empty outside.
Put a few towels each end to adsorb any water loss. Don't piss around and get it done though!!
VxDuncan said:
However #2 - do you actually need to remove the rad? Sometimes you can simply slacken off the nuts a smidgen, gently lift the rad off the bracket, and lie it flat at 90deg to the wall, still connected. Depends on how much slack you have on the plumbing, size of rad etc. Make sure you can catch drips anyway.
Seen this done before - all went well until the pipe split when putting the rad back on the wallnorthwest monkey said:
VxDuncan said:
However #2 - do you actually need to remove the rad? Sometimes you can simply slacken off the nuts a smidgen, gently lift the rad off the bracket, and lie it flat at 90deg to the wall, still connected. Depends on how much slack you have on the plumbing, size of rad etc. Make sure you can catch drips anyway.
Seen this done before - all went well until the pipe split when putting the rad back on the wall
It can overload joints under the floorboards too
Just to say Thanks for the advice, taken me a while to come back as in Barcelona right now.
- I definatly cannot get a roller behind the radiator, it's far too tight
- I like the idea of putting the rad at 90 degrees, but not sure I dare do this
- I think capping it off by closing the TRV, using the allen key and then putting a cap on.
My wife went to get the end caps and has come back with some washers which don't really seem to fit too well. If I use them, I reckon I'll ruin them in the process.
T-J-K
- I definatly cannot get a roller behind the radiator, it's far too tight
- I like the idea of putting the rad at 90 degrees, but not sure I dare do this
- I think capping it off by closing the TRV, using the allen key and then putting a cap on.
My wife went to get the end caps and has come back with some washers which don't really seem to fit too well. If I use them, I reckon I'll ruin them in the process.
T-J-K
Should be able to get some brass caps with a fibre washer in them to go over where the rad comes off.
Locking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
Locking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
Gingerbread Man said:
Should be able to get some brass caps with a fibre washer in them to go over where the rad comes off.
Locking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
Yes, it just seems that the washers are a little too big. I'll be using the allen key to close the valve, and will check through my spares to see what other washers I haveLocking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
Many Thanks
T-J-K
Gingerbread Man said:
Locking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
No it won't. You take the TRV part of the valve off. The cap you screw in in it's place closes the valve like a gate valve. That said if there's a load of gunk in the system then the valves might not close fully. Besides, TRV's work the other way round, they close when it gets too hot.I'd loosen the valves a quarter turn, lay the rad down on the ground then tighten th valve back up. Miniumal water loss. When you've done reverse the procedure to re-hang the rad.
mk1fan said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Locking off the valves should in theory be okay. But if you have a TRV, this'll open if the temperatures drop too low to prevent freezing. When these were installed you should have been given a cap that screws down onto the TRV instead of the actuator head.
No it won't. You take the TRV part of the valve off. The cap you screw in in it's place closes the valve like a gate valve. That said if there's a load of gunk in the system then the valves might not close fully. Besides, TRV's work the other way round, they close when it gets too hot.I'd loosen the valves a quarter turn, lay the rad down on the ground then tighten th valve back up. Miniumal water loss. When you've done reverse the procedure to re-hang the rad.
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