flip front advice
Discussion
right guys iv been putting my mini back together ready for the summer and have been thinking about fitting a clubman flipfront and wide miglia arches..
iv never fitted a flip before and am kind of looking for some advice from those of you who have attempted it. is it as tricky as it looks? would certain MOT places be a bit funny about it not being as safe and solid?
cheers guys
ant
iv never fitted a flip before and am kind of looking for some advice from those of you who have attempted it. is it as tricky as it looks? would certain MOT places be a bit funny about it not being as safe and solid?
cheers guys
ant
The simple answer is, if you value yours and your passenger's safety, "DON'T".
The basic Mini body shell is a monocoque construction, which means that all the panels are responsible for carrying all the loads and stresses from the dynamic performance of the vehicle.
To replace just a part of the monocoque with a tubular framework without first doing extensive structural re-calculations and considering the load paths in various crash cases is just asking for trouble. That's why some MoT testers won't accept them - and rightly so.
Yes, I know some fit extensive framework to mount the flip-front, but how do you know where the loads will go in, say, a 3/4 frontal impact?
To replace with a tubular structure which would meet the load requirements and put back at least the strength taken out would be heavier than the original.
The basic Mini body shell is a monocoque construction, which means that all the panels are responsible for carrying all the loads and stresses from the dynamic performance of the vehicle.
To replace just a part of the monocoque with a tubular framework without first doing extensive structural re-calculations and considering the load paths in various crash cases is just asking for trouble. That's why some MoT testers won't accept them - and rightly so.
Yes, I know some fit extensive framework to mount the flip-front, but how do you know where the loads will go in, say, a 3/4 frontal impact?
To replace with a tubular structure which would meet the load requirements and put back at least the strength taken out would be heavier than the original.
The simple answer is, if you value yours and your passenger's safety, "DON'T".
The basic Mini body shell is a monocoque construction, which means that all the panels are responsible for carrying all the loads and stresses from the dynamic performance of the vehicle.
To replace just a part of the monocoque with a tubular framework without first doing extensive structural re-calculations and considering the load paths in various crash cases is just asking for trouble. That's why some MoT testers won't accept them - and rightly so.
Yes, I know some fit extensive framework to mount the flip-front, but how do you know where the loads will go in, say, a 3/4 frontal impact?
To replace with a tubular structure which would meet the load requirements and put back at least the strength taken out would be heavier than the original.
The basic Mini body shell is a monocoque construction, which means that all the panels are responsible for carrying all the loads and stresses from the dynamic performance of the vehicle.
To replace just a part of the monocoque with a tubular framework without first doing extensive structural re-calculations and considering the load paths in various crash cases is just asking for trouble. That's why some MoT testers won't accept them - and rightly so.
Yes, I know some fit extensive framework to mount the flip-front, but how do you know where the loads will go in, say, a 3/4 frontal impact?
To replace with a tubular structure which would meet the load requirements and put back at least the strength taken out would be heavier than the original.
Can't agree with this - if the flip front is a steel one, the only structural difference is the removal of the inner wings. That's less than 2mm gauge Inner wings versus 2x CDS tubes back to main load bearing points on the bulkhead.
Pete - I was stationary facing the wrong way at Snetterton when I got hit by another Mini in a front 3/4 shunt. Let me just say that the practice of triangulated bars from the front subframe cross memebr to just below the subframe mount tower is very effective and very, very strong. All load was transfered down the opposite side of the car. This shunt wrote my shell off and was sufficient to deform (rearward) my weld in cages' 50mm CDS Roll hoop.
I walked away from the shunt with severe bruising to by ribs only.
I still can't look at the pics taken of my old car after that shunt today
Pete - I was stationary facing the wrong way at Snetterton when I got hit by another Mini in a front 3/4 shunt. Let me just say that the practice of triangulated bars from the front subframe cross memebr to just below the subframe mount tower is very effective and very, very strong. All load was transfered down the opposite side of the car. This shunt wrote my shell off and was sufficient to deform (rearward) my weld in cages' 50mm CDS Roll hoop.
I walked away from the shunt with severe bruising to by ribs only.
I still can't look at the pics taken of my old car after that shunt today

Edited by FWDRacer on Tuesday 21st April 12:28
Yes, Gareth, but your car complies with the Blue Book requirements in respect of structural integrity and it's subject to proper scrutineering. Plus you have a full integrated roll cage. To my mind, that changes things somewhat.
Now, not all flip fronts that I have seen have a properly designed support structure. I've seen them with a couple of bits of not-very-substantial angle going down to the front sub-frame forward pick-up-point and not much else to replace that which has been removed. Remember also, some sub-frames are rubber mounted and those mounts won't take anything like the old solid floor mountings and the later modified mountimngs which all competition Minis have.
Maybe it's my aircraft design background which colours my thoughts here.
For a road Mini, though, I can't really see the benefits of the flip-front when you take into account all the work/cost needed to fit it and retain structural integrity.
Now, not all flip fronts that I have seen have a properly designed support structure. I've seen them with a couple of bits of not-very-substantial angle going down to the front sub-frame forward pick-up-point and not much else to replace that which has been removed. Remember also, some sub-frames are rubber mounted and those mounts won't take anything like the old solid floor mountings and the later modified mountimngs which all competition Minis have.
Maybe it's my aircraft design background which colours my thoughts here.
For a road Mini, though, I can't really see the benefits of the flip-front when you take into account all the work/cost needed to fit it and retain structural integrity.
I reccomend against too not on crash points although they are valid 
I have a steel remoavble front with opening bonnet and to be honest the only time I like the front off is for engine changes as they are a breeze with the front end out of the way
but I will be welding my front end back on this year as it just makes the engine bay dirty from all the road dirt and it looks carp when you stand in the right spot beside it as you can see out of the grill
and my MOT man is a bit iffy about mine even though I work there

I have a steel remoavble front with opening bonnet and to be honest the only time I like the front off is for engine changes as they are a breeze with the front end out of the way

but I will be welding my front end back on this year as it just makes the engine bay dirty from all the road dirt and it looks carp when you stand in the right spot beside it as you can see out of the grill

and my MOT man is a bit iffy about mine even though I work there

Cooperman said:
For a road Mini, though, I can't really see the benefits of the flip-front when you take into account all the work/cost needed to fit it and retain structural integrity.
To do it properly is involved - and the benefits - well, working on the little bleeders for a start 
...beat me to it

Edited by FWDRacer on Tuesday 21st April 16:33
Currently doing an engine transplant in mine (Well my mechanic mate is) which involves currint out the whole of the old front and welding in new engine supports, he is overengineering the frame and we are putting in a rollcage for saftey purposes.
When fitting the flipfront he isn't bothering with the original fitting instructions as weve both heard people having nightmares trying to fit them properly instead we thought it would be a lot easier to go with 4 clips. I will let you know how easy this option is.
When fitting the flipfront he isn't bothering with the original fitting instructions as weve both heard people having nightmares trying to fit them properly instead we thought it would be a lot easier to go with 4 clips. I will let you know how easy this option is.
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