Discussion
Hi Guys, my recently acquired XJR has developed a little problem. Central locking wont close from the remote, opens ok, have replaced the batteries, cleaned the contacts etc.
Will lock ok with the key, but wont lock from the remote.
Could it be a lazy solenoid on one of the doors, or is there a sensor telling it there is something still open maybe?
Any ideas would be much appreciated, thanks.
Will lock ok with the key, but wont lock from the remote.
Could it be a lazy solenoid on one of the doors, or is there a sensor telling it there is something still open maybe?
Any ideas would be much appreciated, thanks.
There is a little metal flap that is meant to spring close when you remove the key from the ignition, to protect the ignition barrel.
This is prone to sticking open, so the car 'thinks' the key is still in the ignition, and prevents you from locking the car with the remote.
A wipe with an oily rag or some WD40 will sort it.
This is prone to sticking open, so the car 'thinks' the key is still in the ignition, and prevents you from locking the car with the remote.
A wipe with an oily rag or some WD40 will sort it.
Thanks SE, that seems fine. Have now pinned it down to the remote as it has worked a couple of times with a real hard squeeze of the fingernail. Have cleaned up the rubber and the pc board, anything else i can try to make them more sensitive again?
Am guessing its something in the board which pushes together to make the connection, rather than the rubber bridging across?
Am guessing its something in the board which pushes together to make the connection, rather than the rubber bridging across?
I still think its the remote. The "Key in switch" inhibits all remote functions not just the locking. Infact if it operates correctly when you press the lock and unlock button in the car and it works correctly when you lock and unlock mechanically with the key, it all points to the remote lock button, can you take it apart and short the contacts on the board for test purposes, or borrow another 308 remote off someone.??
Thanks TT, have tried the spare, have even tried to reprogram the spare from my other 308 but cant get the flashing the lights 5 times routine to work. Dont seem to get the audible blip that i have read should happen.
When you say 'short out the board' is the rubber button actually doing that, or is it pushing contacts together 'inside' the board?
When you say 'short out the board' is the rubber button actually doing that, or is it pushing contacts together 'inside' the board?
Without one infront of me, I cant remember what the remotes innards looks like. Its been over 3 years since I gave my self a huge pay rise and left Jag for Audi, (stop laughing). But it should be possible to replicate pressing the button without damaging the board.
I'll have a look around for, or perhaps someone could repost, the headlight flash procedure for programing the remotes. The best thing you could do is program in a spare to test, assuming you know that the spare was working before.
I dont have the instructions to hand right now, but from memory (I mentioned 3 yrs didnt I)
(1) Get in the car, key in ignition but ignition off, hold the headlamp flash on (pull back indicator stalk) , while the flash stalk it held turn on the igntion (it might actually be, turn to aux postion 1, you will have to try both if no one else can clarify)
(2) Then flash the stalk 4 times. (it might be 3 or 5, but I'm 99% its 4, again a bit of trial and error here, would take 5 mins to try all the combinations so worth a crack). There should be a beep but often isnt. The flasher stalk is now released.
(3) Then hit the lock or unlock button (go with the button your know works here)on the first remote followed by the second remote, (the car needs to see 5 or 6 signals, so if you only have 2 remotes just keep alternating). After you have done 6 presses of remotes, key out and test, make sure the key in switch knows the key is out, all remote functions are disabled when the key is in.
You often dont get the bleeps, the sounders are very unreliable and or disabled at some point in a cars ownership history, try working though the process just assuming you heard the beep.
I'll have a look around for, or perhaps someone could repost, the headlight flash procedure for programing the remotes. The best thing you could do is program in a spare to test, assuming you know that the spare was working before.
I dont have the instructions to hand right now, but from memory (I mentioned 3 yrs didnt I)
(1) Get in the car, key in ignition but ignition off, hold the headlamp flash on (pull back indicator stalk) , while the flash stalk it held turn on the igntion (it might actually be, turn to aux postion 1, you will have to try both if no one else can clarify)
(2) Then flash the stalk 4 times. (it might be 3 or 5, but I'm 99% its 4, again a bit of trial and error here, would take 5 mins to try all the combinations so worth a crack). There should be a beep but often isnt. The flasher stalk is now released.
(3) Then hit the lock or unlock button (go with the button your know works here)on the first remote followed by the second remote, (the car needs to see 5 or 6 signals, so if you only have 2 remotes just keep alternating). After you have done 6 presses of remotes, key out and test, make sure the key in switch knows the key is out, all remote functions are disabled when the key is in.
You often dont get the bleeps, the sounders are very unreliable and or disabled at some point in a cars ownership history, try working though the process just assuming you heard the beep.
Nice one TT, that worked, didnt get a bleep but did see a red light on the J gate when i had pressed the remote 6 times.
Thanks for the tip.
Now at least have one working remote for each car, and two duff.
Is there no way of fixing these things, am guessing there is something inside the PCB that gets squeezed by the rubber button, and eventually stops making a connection?
Thanks for the tip.
Now at least have one working remote for each car, and two duff.
Is there no way of fixing these things, am guessing there is something inside the PCB that gets squeezed by the rubber button, and eventually stops making a connection?
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