Let's assume you would spend a lot of money...

[cramorra]

...with the aim to make a T350 into a as ideal as possible fast road car (that means no track use inteded, and able to deliver longterm high speed- no endurance racing either, though)
We would go for
Red Rose Brakes
GAZ Gold Suspension, Eibach Springs and ideal set up
Quaife LSD?
Traction Control?
Sagaris coolant modification
What else
RG ECU???
Sagaris rear spoiler for down force???
19 inch wheels - SP or Power???
Now the biggest question
I can hear all the people saying for effortless long distance high speed motoring go for a vette engine but we want to stay british in our litlle hypothetical exercise
Leave current 3.6 possible blueprint and RG Top End = advantage keeps the current dynamics, is prob fast enough and should last longer
Go to 4 Litre spec for more low down torque, keep revs down and improve reliability
Even go to Power 4. 3 Litre for effortless long range high speed cruising
OR
See if somebody really can shoehorn an AJP 8 in to create the ultimate monster???
I obviously have not got the money to do this now but should I ever it would be tempting.... So what do you guys think

[stimshady]

1) take all the other cars off the road - should have been walking on the M1 yesterday, would have been faster.

[Zippee]

Theres no point in making the 350 into an as fast as possible roadcar when you lose everything you've gained filling the damned thing up with fuel. Please someone invent a cheap, easy fix to allow us to put fuel in at normal speeds!

[s5tvr]

My thoughts FWTW:
Brake upgrade - yes,
Suspension upgrade - not sure if Gaz golds the way to go though,
Quaife diff sounds good,
Cooling mod a good idea,
Would recommend an alluminium rad as well,
RG ECU not sure about, but a bespoke re-map most definately,
De-catting a must,
Bigger bore equal length manifolds and bigger bore exhaust also good,
Sagaris spoiler - no thanks,
19" wheels no but 18" SP12's yes,
Traction control - spolis the fun
AJP V8 - has already been done and the V8 block is lighter also,
RG FFF head - who knows only time will tell,
Raceproved lightened flywheel - yep
Raceproved camcover / pre-oiler - possibly
4.0 / 4.3 upgrades - i'm for keeping the car original, so I'd get the 3.6 blue-printed and balanced,
C/R box - definately
3.73 / 3.91 diffs - maybe

[T40ORA]

Why the brake upgrade? Mine are absolutely fine as they are, even with the uprated 4.0litre engine.

Maybe softer brake pads.

[blackiepaul]

I would go for six pot front calipers with bigger disks and four pot rears with a brake bias control. The only issue I have found as I am looking to do this is finding the right company for the rears. The only one that seems to do them is hispec (you need ones with a handbrake)and I am not sure about them. Both with strapped rotors and seperate bells

With regard wheels I would go for something lighter and probually Japanease - nice and light.

Decent wheels and brakes will save you plenty with regard unsprung weight.

[triac]

I'm thinking of doing this next on my T350:

" Suspension upgrade - not sure if Gaz golds the way to go though,"

I do a lot of running on country so am looking for a more compliant solution (oh yes and can't forsee many track days)

- So what is the suggested Shock/Spring option for road use ?

[tail slide]

blackiepaul said:

I would go for six pot front calipers with bigger disks and four pot rears with a brake bias control. The only issue I have found as I am looking to do this is finding the right company for the rears. The only one that seems to do them is hispec (you need ones with a handbrake)and I am not sure about them. Both with strapped rotors and seperate bells

Agree with brake bias - factory fitted for me as they said that the rears couldn't be set to come on as much as they would have liked, to satisfy some reg or other.

But on road tyres don't see need to upgrade brakes at all personally. With slightly softer track pads in and standard brakes (not even RR), I can already lock the wheels up braking very hard, anything more would be superfluous.

[cramorra]

stimshady said:

1) take all the other cars off the road - should have been walking on the M1 yesterday, would have been faster.

I forgot to add this

to my wishlist

[cramorra]

T40ORA said:

Why the brake upgrade? Mine are absolutely fine as they are, even with the uprated 4.0litre engine.

Maybe softer brake pads.

When I was doing some fast pass driving on my last holiday in Italy (fully loaded incl. some expensive Barbaresco) I noted some fading towards the end - thought less chance with bigga brakes (would not want to lock them downhill though...
Brake Bias might be the answer...

Edited by cramorra on Tuesday 21st April 00:01

[cramorra]

s5tvr said:

My thoughts FWTW: Good ideas just a few more questions...
Brake upgrade - yes,
Suspension upgrade - not sure if Gaz golds the way to go though, what would you suggest, then????
Quaife diff sounds good,
Cooling mod a good idea,
Would recommend an alluminium rad as well, I thought original rad is ally only expansion tanks are PP
RG ECU not sure about, but a bespoke re-map most definately,
De-catting a must, Not too loud together with the following (on long distance driving???)
Bigger bore equal length manifolds and bigger bore exhaust also good,
Sagaris spoiler - no thanks,
19" wheels no but 18" SP12's yes, are they sig lighter then the spiders???
Traction control - spolis the fun - but if switchable would keep fun if wanted but be there when needed???
AJP V8 - has already been done and the V8 block is lighter also, i thought this was a race car - is it road leagal???
RG FFF head - who knows only time will tell, fully agree I am keen on the results
Raceproved lightened flywheel - yep
Raceproved camcover / pre-oiler - possibly
4.0 / 4.3 upgrades - i'm for keeping the car original, so I'd get the 3.6 blue-printed and balanced,
C/R box - definately
3.73 / 3.91 diffs - maybe How would it affect top speed (I am not to good in this sort of maths???)

[stimshady]

cramorra said:

I forgot to add this

to my wishlist

The perfect rooftop accessory! - (that's exactly what i needed on Sunday PM!)

[JR]

cramorra said:

s5tvr said:

My thoughts FWTW: ... Suspension upgrade - not sure if Gaz golds the way to go though,

what would you suggest, then????

Ohlins are generally thought to be the best that have been fitted.

[JR]

cramorra said:

s5tvr said:

My thoughts FWTW: ... 19" wheels no but 18" SP12's yes,

are they sig lighter then the spiders???

The fast road car that you suggested would perform even better on 17s.

[cramorra]

JR said:

cramorra said:

s5tvr said:

My thoughts FWTW: ... 19" wheels no but 18" SP12's yes,

are they sig lighter then the spiders???

The fast road car that you suggested would perform even better on 17s.

Are you quoting the "old" adage that smaller wheels = smaller tyres = less rolling resistance = higher topspeed and smaller wheel diameter same rpm at maxed car = higher topspeed again or is there something else behind it???
How would roadholding in fast mountain driving be affected with smaller tyres???

[thainy77]

Power 4.3, Nitrons and Power sports exhaust, can't complain!. De-cat next and after that to be honest i don't know, i think a CR box and 3.91 Diff, we shall see.

[TVR_owner]

cramorra said:

T40ORA said:

Why the brake upgrade? Mine are absolutely fine as they are, even with the uprated 4.0litre engine.

Maybe softer brake pads.

When I was doing some fast pass driving on my last holiday in Italy (fully loaded incl. some expensive Barbaresco) I noted some fading towards the end - thought less chance with bigga brakes (would not want to lock them downhill though...
Brake Bias might be the answer...

Edited by cramorra on Tuesday 21st April 00:01

A Tamora will loose it brakes under hard track use, even with F4R pads, top fluid and a proper RR uprade (not just the fronts). The front brakes would benefit from ducting for hard track use.

[JR]

cramorra said:

JR said:

cramorra said:

s5tvr said:

My thoughts FWTW: ... 19" wheels no but 18" SP12's yes,

are they sig lighter then the spiders???

The fast road car that you suggested would perform even better on 17s.

Are you quoting the "old" adage that smaller wheels = smaller tyres = less rolling resistance = higher topspeed and smaller wheel diameter same rpm at maxed car = higher topspeed again or is there something else behind it???
How would roadholding in fast mountain driving be affected with smaller tyres???

Hi. There is some more behind it... Usually when you swap to wheels of a different diameter you change the height of the tyre sidewall so that the rolling radius remains the same. Then there is the issue of unsprung weight and unsprung inertia:
Requirements vary: looks, comfort, or performance? (Remember that the T-series cars were designed to run on 16” wheels.)

Assuming that you keep the rolling radius the same then larger wheels will:

Downside: - cost more, have more expensive tyres, perform worse in the wet, perform worse on bumpy roads, be more susceptible to tram lining, increase the weight of the car, increase the unsprung weight, produce a harsher ride, increase the rotating unsprung weight (second moment of inertia) and be more liable to scuffing on kerbs when parking.
On the plus side they should: - prevent the tyre from distorting thus giving greater cornering grip in the dry and on smooth roads, be more direct giving greater steering feel and control, have less tyre wall flex (thus reducing both heat and fatigue and be better for long high speed journeys) and they should look good.

Larger wheels will effectively increase the spring rates and fitting lower section tyres with less sidewall flex can make the car more sensitive to suspension geometry changes. There are advantages to tyre wall flex when cornering too; this flex gives a lot of feedback and enables more progressive oversteer. Reducing this flex gives more ultimate grip but when it reaches the limit there is less opportunity to control it.

If a car was set up for one wheel size then by increasing the wheel diameter, keeping the same rim the same tyre widths the same rolling radius and the same tyre model then the mathematical advantages are not as much as the disadvantages, even after minimising them by adjusting the suspension set-up; unless the weight and the cornering speed of the car are not enough to mean that the tyre rolls onto its sidewall causing sidewall scrub during cornering.

Tyres for 14” wheels are a low point for performance rubber. From there the larger the wheel diameter the better the quality of rubber that is available.

Wheels have a mounting offset from centre known as ET (German = Einpress Tiefe, literally meaning "push in depth,") for the MX-5 this preferably needs to be 36-45mm. The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) needs to be 100mm and the Centrebore needs to be 54.1mm. Wheel spacers can only reduce this ET value, irrespective of the wheel diameter.

The real choice should be from the roads that you use, your driving style and your preferences.

Cheers, Jonathan

[willtvr]

TVR_owner said:

cramorra said:

T40ORA said:

Why the brake upgrade? Mine are absolutely fine as they are, even with the uprated 4.0litre engine.

Maybe softer brake pads.

When I was doing some fast pass driving on my last holiday in Italy (fully loaded incl. some expensive Barbaresco) I noted some fading towards the end - thought less chance with bigga brakes (would not want to lock them downhill though...
Brake Bias might be the answer...

Edited by cramorra on Tuesday 21st April 00:01

A Tamora will loose it brakes under hard track use, even with F4R pads, top fluid and a proper RR uprade (not just the fronts). The front brakes would benefit from ducting for hard track use.

Even so, those F4R pads are terrific on track but also fine on the road. Haven't suffered any fade so far or boiled the fluid and quite happy to suffer a bit of squeal.

[geordieexpat]

I have added 19" jade R alloys, 3.91diff and close ratio box to my Sagaris and it made a big diff

Derrick