Can I make it easier to manual focus my 450D?
Discussion
Obviously the manufacturers of DSLRs, at least at the consumer level, don't really expect people to use manual focus all that much.
I've been having a little play around with my Granddad's old Minolta XD7 - complete with mechanical, whirring self-timer
- and it is just so much easier to bring into focus manually.
For those who haven't used such a beast, the centre of the viewfinder basically cuts verticals in two, and brings the two halves into alignment when the vertical is in focus. In comparison, the AF points on the 450D will light up when they detect focus, but you need pretty strong light for that to happen, and even then it only does it fleetingly when the focus is absolutely spot on.
I find that for low light photography and for Macro stuff, it's really difficult to get the manual focusing perfect. Is there any sort of aftermarket replacement eyepiece or anything that will give me similar functionality to that of the old Minolta?
I've been having a little play around with my Granddad's old Minolta XD7 - complete with mechanical, whirring self-timer
- and it is just so much easier to bring into focus manually. For those who haven't used such a beast, the centre of the viewfinder basically cuts verticals in two, and brings the two halves into alignment when the vertical is in focus. In comparison, the AF points on the 450D will light up when they detect focus, but you need pretty strong light for that to happen, and even then it only does it fleetingly when the focus is absolutely spot on.
I find that for low light photography and for Macro stuff, it's really difficult to get the manual focusing perfect. Is there any sort of aftermarket replacement eyepiece or anything that will give me similar functionality to that of the old Minolta?
Few things I guess:
- You may be able to swap the focus screen in the camera for a split screen for manual focusing (but you will likely loose the focus confirmation dots. You can usually do this in the higher end cameras, don't know about the Canons As I'm a Nikon Type. google "focusing screen".
- Canon don't tend to put AF illuminators on the cheap cameras - quite an omission IMO, prefering to pop the flash up and use that. A decent Canon flash gun should give you an AF illuminator (which will help in low light), even if you don't use the flash.
- A fast lens will help focusing in low light obviously.
- Lastly, upgrading the camera to a higher-end model with a bigger, brighter viewfinder and possibly better AF can only help.
- You may be able to swap the focus screen in the camera for a split screen for manual focusing (but you will likely loose the focus confirmation dots. You can usually do this in the higher end cameras, don't know about the Canons As I'm a Nikon Type. google "focusing screen".
- Canon don't tend to put AF illuminators on the cheap cameras - quite an omission IMO, prefering to pop the flash up and use that. A decent Canon flash gun should give you an AF illuminator (which will help in low light), even if you don't use the flash.
- A fast lens will help focusing in low light obviously.
- Lastly, upgrading the camera to a higher-end model with a bigger, brighter viewfinder and possibly better AF can only help.
Thanks for that Duncan. In doing a google search, I then wondered off into a manual focus forum, which came up with the alternative suggestion of using Live View, as it allows you to zoom in digitally to x10, and all of a sudden, focusing becomes much easier! 
So much for reading the manual!
So much for reading the manual!
I don't know about your exact model, but I can understand where you're coming from having thought pretty much the same with my D70.
I'd echo the earlier comments.
Having moved to a D2X I can say it's a bit better with a decent viewfinder, but a big improvement for me was getting a slightly magnifying eyepiece (which works for all subject matter).
Also, double check your own eyesight. Having had lazer treatment 18 months ago I am lucky enough to now not need to wear glasses just to look in the viewfinder, but having the dioptre adjustment set right will help.
Changing focussing screens is a possibility - but a pain if the camera body is not dedicated to just one use like macro work.
I guess this is one of the BIG advantages of moving to a dSLR model which allows mirror lock up and a "live-view" function which you can enlarge many times. After the event is useful if your camera screen is any good. I am often using the technique of "bracketing" a sequence of close up shots with the focus just nudged back and forth a little and choosing the best result in post processing.
I'd echo the earlier comments.
Having moved to a D2X I can say it's a bit better with a decent viewfinder, but a big improvement for me was getting a slightly magnifying eyepiece (which works for all subject matter).
Also, double check your own eyesight. Having had lazer treatment 18 months ago I am lucky enough to now not need to wear glasses just to look in the viewfinder, but having the dioptre adjustment set right will help.
Changing focussing screens is a possibility - but a pain if the camera body is not dedicated to just one use like macro work.
I guess this is one of the BIG advantages of moving to a dSLR model which allows mirror lock up and a "live-view" function which you can enlarge many times. After the event is useful if your camera screen is any good. I am often using the technique of "bracketing" a sequence of close up shots with the focus just nudged back and forth a little and choosing the best result in post processing.
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