1.7999999999999999999999999999999
Discussion
I've been setting the geo on my car.
Following my suspension rebuild I made a guestimate on how many camber shims I needed to get the car to where I wanted it. I had a bit of a last minute rush getting the car to its MOT and then a track day the next day.
Anyway, I've finally had some time to start measuring it all up and set about getting it properly sorted. First up was ride height: deep joy! Its running a couple of mm lower than I expected but not so bad as to warrant faffing around: 103 front 110 rear (same both sides). That'll do for now. Camber looked OK(ish by eye) but actually measured all over the place so wheels and plinths/steering arms off and re-do the shims. I was orignially going for 1.5 front and 2.5 rear (340R track settings backed off a bit) but having checked my tyres after 500 miles (inclduing a track day) the wear on one of the front tyres which showed camber of 1.95 didn't seem to uneven -the camber on the other front was nearly 2.5 degrees and the measurements for the rear unrepeatable - I decided to go for 1.8/2.5 front rear and seed how things go.
When I put it all back together the first wheel I measured at the front had a calculated camber of 1.799999999 recurring!! I think that's OK then.
The other front came in at 1.81 degrees. The rears came in at 2.4 and 2.34 degrees.
Not too shabby but still a little bit of work to do (emery cloth on a 0.5mm shim?) on the rears.
Next up I'm setting the toe. I think I'll be at that for a long, long while. Incredibly satifying though.
Following my suspension rebuild I made a guestimate on how many camber shims I needed to get the car to where I wanted it. I had a bit of a last minute rush getting the car to its MOT and then a track day the next day.
Anyway, I've finally had some time to start measuring it all up and set about getting it properly sorted. First up was ride height: deep joy! Its running a couple of mm lower than I expected but not so bad as to warrant faffing around: 103 front 110 rear (same both sides). That'll do for now. Camber looked OK(ish by eye) but actually measured all over the place so wheels and plinths/steering arms off and re-do the shims. I was orignially going for 1.5 front and 2.5 rear (340R track settings backed off a bit) but having checked my tyres after 500 miles (inclduing a track day) the wear on one of the front tyres which showed camber of 1.95 didn't seem to uneven -the camber on the other front was nearly 2.5 degrees and the measurements for the rear unrepeatable - I decided to go for 1.8/2.5 front rear and seed how things go.
When I put it all back together the first wheel I measured at the front had a calculated camber of 1.799999999 recurring!! I think that's OK then.
The other front came in at 1.81 degrees. The rears came in at 2.4 and 2.34 degrees.
Not too shabby but still a little bit of work to do (emery cloth on a 0.5mm shim?) on the rears.
Next up I'm setting the toe. I think I'll be at that for a long, long while. Incredibly satifying though.
TIPPER said:
When I put it all back together the first wheel I measured at the front had a calculated camber of 1.799999999 recurring!! I think that's OK then.
The other front came in at 1.81 degrees. The rears came in at 2.4 and 2.34 degrees.
Not too shabby but still a little bit of work to do (emery cloth on a 0.5mm shim?) on the rears.
don't get too hung up about accuracy with camber, at the end of the day, tyre wear/temps are the thing that defines what you need, also, how do you know the ground you are on is 100% level? does not take much to throw the side-to-side readings offThe other front came in at 1.81 degrees. The rears came in at 2.4 and 2.34 degrees.
Not too shabby but still a little bit of work to do (emery cloth on a 0.5mm shim?) on the rears.
Thanks guys. To be honest the comments about emery cloth on a camber shim where a bit tongue in cheek: I don't really think I'll notice the difference!!
I'd also thought of turning the car around and then re-measuring but don't know that I wasnt to see the results!! I laid the poles down on the ground just behind and in front of the wheels and checked level with a long spirit level: surprisingly it was level (although there are imperfections).
Longer term (ie when I get the garage back) I should have a nice flat and truly level floor.
I'd forgotten what fun playing with car is, off to start the toe in a little while.
Scuffers, I'd been going through a lot of old stuff over on Seloc prior to starting this and found your input very helpful: many thanks
I'd also thought of turning the car around and then re-measuring but don't know that I wasnt to see the results!! I laid the poles down on the ground just behind and in front of the wheels and checked level with a long spirit level: surprisingly it was level (although there are imperfections).
Longer term (ie when I get the garage back) I should have a nice flat and truly level floor.
I'd forgotten what fun playing with car is, off to start the toe in a little while.
Scuffers, I'd been going through a lot of old stuff over on Seloc prior to starting this and found your input very helpful: many thanks
If I werre just running the car purely on road on standard suspension and purely road tyres. The car is now much more of a track toy and I'm starting Sprinting in a few weeks. Have a look here http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups
Glol at Gooby: I was told to just chuck 'em all out by someone who's set up the odd fast Elise but I have to get to and from the Sprints driving the car.
I'd be doing well to get much more than 1k miles out of a set of tyres with loads of camber. I'm compromising and besides I don't expect to be competitive, just have fun.
I'd be doing well to get much more than 1k miles out of a set of tyres with loads of camber. I'm compromising and besides I don't expect to be competitive, just have fun.
TIPPER said:
Glol at Gooby: I was told to just chuck 'em all out by someone who's set up the odd fast Elise but I have to get to and from the Sprints driving the car.
I'd be doing well to get much more than 1k miles out of a set of tyres with loads of camber. I'm compromising and besides I don't expect to be competitive, just have fun.
The guys at Plans just threw them out. No complaints. I rotate the tyres and I still get 10-12k from the rears and 18-20k from the fronts.I'd be doing well to get much more than 1k miles out of a set of tyres with loads of camber. I'm compromising and besides I don't expect to be competitive, just have fun.
I did 20k miles in 5 months with the commute, no problems....
chris7676 said:
Errm, I wonder what the racing guys on here would be happy with on standard tyres? I got the impression that even -1deg (front) was a bit too high on Neovas when they warmed up as they seemed to be getting warmer on insides.
cambers are 100% dependant on the tyres used and what your the car for, you have to think about the whole setup, not just one bit, eg. stiffer spring rates will restrict camber change, so the base figures will need to change.-1 is about right for a road car, sometimes slightly more, remember A048R's have a stiff carcase compared to just about any other road tyre (hence why their ride on the road is s
te)When it comes to camber, lucky you have an S1 Tim. It is unusual to be able to get more than a degree of negative camber at the front without machining the steering arms or fitting the rather inappropriately named "zero bumpsteer kit". S1 allowed for far more camber without any machining.
shangani said:
When it comes to camber, lucky you have an S1 Tim. It is unusual to be able to get more than a degree of negative camber at the front without machining the steering arms or fitting the rather inappropriately named "zero bumpsteer kit". S1 allowed for far more camber without any machining.
Wasn't that to prevent the lady S2 owners from having to deal with anything other than understeer
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