Dry sump tanks
Discussion
Hey guys,
Well just about to get to the point of putting the new big HP motor into the car and wondering about the dry sump tank, basically have a full dry sump system on the engine as well as injection and working out where everything is going to bolt up. Should I go for the factory tank or something somewhere else?
Any and all suggestions welcome, want to get it back on the road in time for Le Mans if possible!
Cheers
Well just about to get to the point of putting the new big HP motor into the car and wondering about the dry sump tank, basically have a full dry sump system on the engine as well as injection and working out where everything is going to bolt up. Should I go for the factory tank or something somewhere else?
Any and all suggestions welcome, want to get it back on the road in time for Le Mans if possible!
Cheers
There was a thread at the beginning of April on this subject for an LS7 engine: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
k wright said:
This is where mine is at. I have the side shifter on a G50/52 and the factory tank wouldn't work.
If you are in the UK keep the shift linkage and use the factory tank.
ken
Have you ordered the tank directly to Petersen?
Have you the order diagram with the dimensions ?
I need to replace my old tank and yours look nice.
Thanks
Javier
I ordered it directly from Peterson. I have the light weight tank now (no seam so it fits better). It is 6"x19". It holds 8 quarts of oil and will fit on either side of the transaxle if you modify your exhaust. I used a removable alloy plate to mount this as it has to be taken off the car to remove the transaxle.
I'm sure that Wade at Peterson could email you a detailed diagram.
ken
I'm sure that Wade at Peterson could email you a detailed diagram.
ken
k wright said:
I ordered it directly from Peterson. I have the light weight tank now (no seam so it fits better). It is 6"x19". It holds 8 quarts of oil and will fit on either side of the transaxle if you modify your exhaust. I used a removable alloy plate to mount this as it has to be taken off the car to remove the transaxle.
I'm sure that Wade at Peterson could email you a detailed diagram.
ken
Ok, thanks mate.I'm sure that Wade at Peterson could email you a detailed diagram.
ken
Factory Dry-Sump Tank:
I fitted a dry-sumped SBC, dynoed at 555 HP. I installed the factory dry-sump tank, and was very pleased with the installation. It comes with two mounting tabs, appropriately placed, that allow it to be riveted directly to the frame. Removal of the tank would require a drill bit and less than one minute. I also installed an overflow/breather tank in the same location, which required a small amount of fitment, but brought it all together very well. I did install a different Setrab oil cooler radiator as it allowed for larger oil lines than the Mocal factory cooler that came with the Accusump. Everything is of course AN fittings and SS braided lines. The system holds 8 quarts. It is easy to check the level in the tank, as it has an external clear tube that you can visualize through the rear grill.
Sorry I can't provide photos, but with the rear clip currently installed it is barely visible.
Just my experience,
David
I fitted a dry-sumped SBC, dynoed at 555 HP. I installed the factory dry-sump tank, and was very pleased with the installation. It comes with two mounting tabs, appropriately placed, that allow it to be riveted directly to the frame. Removal of the tank would require a drill bit and less than one minute. I also installed an overflow/breather tank in the same location, which required a small amount of fitment, but brought it all together very well. I did install a different Setrab oil cooler radiator as it allowed for larger oil lines than the Mocal factory cooler that came with the Accusump. Everything is of course AN fittings and SS braided lines. The system holds 8 quarts. It is easy to check the level in the tank, as it has an external clear tube that you can visualize through the rear grill.
Sorry I can't provide photos, but with the rear clip currently installed it is barely visible.
Just my experience,
David
Thanks David for the info.
I have the factory tank too probably older than yours (not level indicator). It holds 8 quart which is not enought for hard track use. I will need almost 10 quarts with high flow fittings (-12 -16AN ).
I have found something on Ebay USA from Petersen that could be probably adecuate.
Cheers,
Javier
I have the factory tank too probably older than yours (not level indicator). It holds 8 quart which is not enought for hard track use. I will need almost 10 quarts with high flow fittings (-12 -16AN ).
I have found something on Ebay USA from Petersen that could be probably adecuate.
Cheers,
Javier
If you have the correct pan an 8 quart sump is more than enough for track use.
The key is to minimize the amount of oil in the pan and the valley. Use of a pan with a large right side kickout and a seperate scavenge stage for the valley will help with this.
I have a vintage racecar with slicks that has an 8 quart sump and lots of time on track with no problems.
The key is to minimize the amount of oil in the pan and the valley. Use of a pan with a large right side kickout and a seperate scavenge stage for the valley will help with this.
I have a vintage racecar with slicks that has an 8 quart sump and lots of time on track with no problems.
k wright said:
If you have the correct pan an 8 quart sump is more than enough for track use.
The key is to minimize the amount of oil in the pan and the valley. Use of a pan with a large right side kickout and a seperate scavenge stage for the valley will help with this.
I have a vintage racecar with slicks that has an 8 quart sump and lots of time on track with no problems.
Mmmmmm......pan...another good discussion theme when concerning american V8's on road racing use. What I have found is that mostly of aftermarket dry sump pans come with right side pickups (designed for oval racing I guest). I have suffered oiling problems on my previous 454 sbc (cam failure) and I'm quite sure it was caused by a poor oil scavenge under hard braking and right turn cornering.The key is to minimize the amount of oil in the pan and the valley. Use of a pan with a large right side kickout and a seperate scavenge stage for the valley will help with this.
I have a vintage racecar with slicks that has an 8 quart sump and lots of time on track with no problems.
People who sold me the new engine recommended to use a larger tank with -16AN supply line and the pan with left/right pickups or a central scavenge rail.
The right side pickup is specified as a result of crankshaft rotation and not direction of turns on course. The idea is that the oil is seperated from the crankshaft by a "scrapper" and it collects in the low velocity area of the right side sump.
The larger the side sump the better, it will be limited by the engine mount tube. I've only used front and rear pickups and will soon seal the lifter valley and add a pickup there. So far no problems and many track miles.
The larger the side sump the better, it will be limited by the engine mount tube. I've only used front and rear pickups and will soon seal the lifter valley and add a pickup there. So far no problems and many track miles.
Sorry for the sidetrack but who made your headers Ken?.........the overhead route (as opposed to dropping down low) for an LS, does appeal to me.
I had considered whether its possible to swap (side to side) mass produced race headers which normally drop down but when swapped across, pass overhead the motor? ....am I correct in thinking the LS flange mounting bolt pattern is central/symmetrical to the exhaust port on the LS3....making the flip-over very straightforward?
I had considered whether its possible to swap (side to side) mass produced race headers which normally drop down but when swapped across, pass overhead the motor? ....am I correct in thinking the LS flange mounting bolt pattern is central/symmetrical to the exhaust port on the LS3....making the flip-over very straightforward?
k wright said:
The right side pickup is specified as a result of crankshaft rotation and not direction of turns on course. The idea is that the oil is seperated from the crankshaft by a "scrapper" and it collects in the low velocity area of the right side sump.
The larger the side sump the better, it will be limited by the engine mount tube. I've only used front and rear pickups and will soon seal the lifter valley and add a pickup there. So far no problems and many track miles.
I will think about that......Meanwhile here are some pics of the pan that I have found. Not sure about its origins (probably Steff's or Hendricks) but solves the problem with front and rear pickups and both sides (I guest) The larger the side sump the better, it will be limited by the engine mount tube. I've only used front and rear pickups and will soon seal the lifter valley and add a pickup there. So far no problems and many track miles.
I have the factory stainless headers that are coated in ceramic material. Since the above photo the remainder of the exhaust has been coated. The muffler is a dual inlet Spintech and the remainder of the system is mandrel bends that are welded together. I used alloy supports to mount the muffler to the bolts on the transaxle case.
The goal of insulating the oil lines was to limit heat absrption by the oil line, it is likely that the amount of heat emitted by the oil lines is minimal and the oil cooler vents to the engine compartment as well so the decrease in engine bay temps as a result of insulating the oil lines is zero.
The greatest difference that I've seen in engine bay temps has been made by coating the headers and exhaust.
That is an interesting pan, what are the projections above the pan rail?
Ken
The goal of insulating the oil lines was to limit heat absrption by the oil line, it is likely that the amount of heat emitted by the oil lines is minimal and the oil cooler vents to the engine compartment as well so the decrease in engine bay temps as a result of insulating the oil lines is zero.
The greatest difference that I've seen in engine bay temps has been made by coating the headers and exhaust.
That is an interesting pan, what are the projections above the pan rail?
Ken
Edited by k wright on Thursday 9th July 09:05
Ken, the projections are spray oilers for the crank bearings. There is a -4 line from the outside which brings oil pressure from pump. I have seen the same idea for the valve springs....., in that case the oilers are attached to the inside of valve covers.
My experience about under bonnet temps. are similar than Ken's .I tryed to open holes, grilles and adding electric fans but the final solution and really effective was to wrap the entire exhaust. Problem solved.
My experience about under bonnet temps. are similar than Ken's .I tryed to open holes, grilles and adding electric fans but the final solution and really effective was to wrap the entire exhaust. Problem solved.
Edited by srreck on Thursday 9th July 14:00
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