Turbo actuators
Discussion
noblesparky said:
After the dyno day I am looking at first changing the actuators on the turbo charger. Once I have changed them, do i need to get remapped straight away or is the car ok to run?
Hi Andy,Any chance you could take photos as you go? It seems like a few of need to do this job and some piccys would be a big help
Had an e-mail from Mike about changing the actuators, he said that there was no problem in changing the actuators and then using the car but he advises against giving it full banana's before the car has a remap. The rear one looks east to change if the clam is removed, think the front one is going to be more fun
h !!! when we get them all changed we could have a group re-mapp at mikes !!I'm also looking forward to seeing Dave's pictures.. and finding out if the straight swap brings back normal boost pressure.
Am I right that Mike's aftermarket actuators are 0.7 bar and the standard Noble ones are 0.4 bar? And if so, is that the reason a remap is advisable if the new ones are fitted?
At this stage I'm not looking to do any tuning - I was hoping to easily get the car back to its "standard" out-of-the-factory state [2003 spec].
Another question - cos I'm not that mechanical - in standard form, is it the boost solenoid that sets max boost at 0.7 bar, with mechanical boost (actuators) at 0.4 bar run the car in "safe mode" in case the ECU shuts it down? That might not make sense..
Am I right that Mike's aftermarket actuators are 0.7 bar and the standard Noble ones are 0.4 bar? And if so, is that the reason a remap is advisable if the new ones are fitted?
At this stage I'm not looking to do any tuning - I was hoping to easily get the car back to its "standard" out-of-the-factory state [2003 spec
]. Another question - cos I'm not that mechanical - in standard form, is it the boost solenoid that sets max boost at 0.7 bar, with mechanical boost (actuators) at 0.4 bar run the car in "safe mode" in case the ECU shuts it down? That might not make sense..
noblesparky said:
Had an e-mail from Mike about changing the actuators, he said that there was no problem in changing the actuators and then using the car but he advises against giving it full banana's before the car has a remap. The rear one looks east to change if the clam is removed, think the front one is going to be more fun
Yep, the front one looks a total pain - had a look today whilst fitting my catch tank.Guys,
The actuators are now on after less than four hours and no real swearing! They are fairly straightforward but don't forget I did them on a lift in a fully equipped garage with air etc. I personally wouldn't want to do them (the front one especially) on my back in my garage at home.
The rear one is an easy job once the clam is off, the front one is much more tricky but OK once the heatshield is removed. There's no need to remove the bellypan either.
I'll post up some piccies and more detail later.
Cheers
Dave
The actuators are now on after less than four hours and no real swearing! They are fairly straightforward but don't forget I did them on a lift in a fully equipped garage with air etc. I personally wouldn't want to do them (the front one especially) on my back in my garage at home.
The rear one is an easy job once the clam is off, the front one is much more tricky but OK once the heatshield is removed. There's no need to remove the bellypan either.
I'll post up some piccies and more detail later.
Cheers
Dave
Edited by D_G on Saturday 25th April 21:26
Edited by D_G on Saturday 25th April 21:27
Duke Thrust said:
Nice one Dave!
How are the old ones fixed? Looks like you've had to drill them out?
How are the old ones fixed? Looks like you've had to drill them out?
Gadgeroonie said:
how did you set the preload on them ?
They are spot welded on in three places, no problem with a 5mm drill bit. There's no way to do it in place on the front one but getting it off isn't that bad anyway. Once they are off one of the holes is extended to 7mm with a new hole on the other side for the new units.I measured the old ones from the mounting base to the centre of the pivot on each one and also the distance from the centre of the wastegate to pivot once detached. I found the preload on the old ones was 3mm for both (detached) which also matched the old lengths so installed them at that.
Dave
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