URGENT!!!!!! (For Rockingham), AJP stops after 30 secs!!
Discussion
we have some minor troubles with the car, it has an AJP and runs perfectly for 30 seconds, we even tested it driving and it seems to have all the power, but after 1 mile (on a track of course ;-) it stops.
we already removed a filter and are planning to exchange the 1st fulepump.
What are the symptons if the ECU is still limited in running hours? (like they were when you leased the engine from the factory)
Any ideas?
if it runs I will race it at Rockingham.
Thanx for cooperating,
regards,
Dries
we already removed a filter and are planning to exchange the 1st fulepump.
What are the symptons if the ECU is still limited in running hours? (like they were when you leased the engine from the factory)
Any ideas?
if it runs I will race it at Rockingham.
Thanx for cooperating,
regards,
Dries
Thanks for the reply.
we planned the boat to Hull which will arrive friday morning and will come to Rockingham asap.
the problem is that if we start it it runs normally but if we push it it stops. but it seems to make enough revs.
we suspect that the first pump is malfunctioning (the one that fills the swirlpot)
ohter suggestions are very welcome.
hope to see you all next week!!
D
we planned the boat to Hull which will arrive friday morning and will come to Rockingham asap.
the problem is that if we start it it runs normally but if we push it it stops. but it seems to make enough revs.
we suspect that the first pump is malfunctioning (the one that fills the swirlpot)
ohter suggestions are very welcome.
hope to see you all next week!!
D
Dave, thanks for the reply, will call you.
we just checked the high pressure filter and both pumps and they seem to run fine. the loose connection could be a possibility, but why should it then start perfectly when cold, when you push it the first mile also seems to be fine and then all of a sudden it stops. then we let it cool off al little (so still warm) and it starts again. standing still you can rev it till max, but when you try to let it roll in first or second gear and try to hit the throttle it stalls????
what sensors tell the ecu to stop igniting or giving fuel?
should we give both pumps a direct +? (and with which fuses?)
Thanx all in advance,
D
we just checked the high pressure filter and both pumps and they seem to run fine. the loose connection could be a possibility, but why should it then start perfectly when cold, when you push it the first mile also seems to be fine and then all of a sudden it stops. then we let it cool off al little (so still warm) and it starts again. standing still you can rev it till max, but when you try to let it roll in first or second gear and try to hit the throttle it stalls????
what sensors tell the ecu to stop igniting or giving fuel?
should we give both pumps a direct +? (and with which fuses?)
Thanx all in advance,
D
Hi Darren, thanks for the reply.
we emptied and cleaned the whole tank yesterday. after this we refilled it and added injection cleaner.
we tested the whole fuel system (pump 1, swirlpot, pump2 and high pressure filter) including fuelpressure sensor (it reads 2,78 Bar, is this enough?)and everything seems to function normally. We could eventually give it a direct plus and earth to be sure, but if it stalls and we try to restart it we hear both pumps running so that should not be it.
We don't think it could be a loose contact, because why would it restart if you let it cool down for 5 mins? and if it starts after five mins it runs normally (even high revs) if we then shift in first and second and let it roll it stalls and doesn't restart. (for 5 mins)
Could it be a sensor or a lambda or something temperature related that tells the ECU to stop? What is the function of the sensor on the flywheel? because that has been disconnected to repair the gearbox. (it is an AMB connector which can only be put on on one way)
we emptied and cleaned the whole tank yesterday. after this we refilled it and added injection cleaner.
we tested the whole fuel system (pump 1, swirlpot, pump2 and high pressure filter) including fuelpressure sensor (it reads 2,78 Bar, is this enough?)and everything seems to function normally. We could eventually give it a direct plus and earth to be sure, but if it stalls and we try to restart it we hear both pumps running so that should not be it.
We don't think it could be a loose contact, because why would it restart if you let it cool down for 5 mins? and if it starts after five mins it runs normally (even high revs) if we then shift in first and second and let it roll it stalls and doesn't restart. (for 5 mins)
Could it be a sensor or a lambda or something temperature related that tells the ECU to stop? What is the function of the sensor on the flywheel? because that has been disconnected to repair the gearbox. (it is an AMB connector which can only be put on on one way)
get the car to stop then crack open the fuel pipe on the back of the fuel rail(leave pumps on) if no fuel sprays out then it is a fuel problem ,tank pumps etc(use a rag to stop fuel going every where).if it got fuel then take off a ht lead and see if its got a spark
Edited by darren no 7 on Sunday 26th April 17:56
Edited by darren no 7 on Sunday 26th April 18:03
it could also be the fuel lines the rubber can brake down,
it my be it runs after it cools down because if its a blockage in the fuel line the fuel pressure would drop and the blockage may move then you turn it on again it fills the swerl pot runs then blocks pot runs out and then stops
it my be it runs after it cools down because if its a blockage in the fuel line the fuel pressure would drop and the blockage may move then you turn it on again it fills the swerl pot runs then blocks pot runs out and then stops
Edited by darren no 7 on Sunday 26th April 20:08
Edited by darren no 7 on Sunday 26th April 20:16
Hi Dries.Was car ok before you removed gearbox? Sensor on flywheel is the crank sensor, is it a perfect fit...wires are very thin and are easily broken inside the insulation...check that terminals inside connector have not come loose and are being pushed out of connector when it is fitted...has wire to crank sensor touched hot exhaust.. I have engine loom and can help you when you arrive over here.....is alternator charging?....Dave
infinity said:
Hi Dave, thanks for reacting, we will check your suggestions this afternoon.
i have been thinking, could it be that the fuel tank gets no "air" so the pumps have to suck through a vacuum?
A trapped or vent would certainly explain the limited running time and the return to normal after a short period.i have been thinking, could it be that the fuel tank gets no "air" so the pumps have to suck through a vacuum?

Hi Dries, whilst working on your car this weekend I noticed that the vacuum pot (Not sure if this is the correct word for it) at the end of the fuel rail and connected to the return fuel line is damaged. As you can see in the picture there is a small outlet on the top of this unit. I noticed that the outlet on your car is bend. Could this be the problem?
The car in the pic is not your car btw
That is fuel pressure regulator...tuscan does not use vacum to control pressure so damage to inlet on regulator is no problem but as darren said , have you cracked off connection to see if fuel pressure is still there when car stops. Or just scroll to fuel pressure on the PI ......Dave
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t (moving around under acceleration?)some thing to do with fuel i would think,sounds like it runs till the swerl pot runs out
Im sure I recognize the car in that pic