Anyone doing they're own oil change?

[MadProf]

I don't use my S2 Elise for daily driving so this year what with the credit crunch and everything I'm going to change the oil myself.Last year I had a BIG brake overhaul so I know that department is all ok,so it just seems mad to have the car serviced every year when I'm doing less than 3k.Anyway so this year I'm going to do the oil change myself,I've got some ramps and from what I've read so far from helpful sources of info ie,SELOC it does seem pretty straight forward.
Take it for a quick spin,drive it up on ramps,take of the middle under tray remove sump plug,drain off old oil,replace sump plug,change filter,replace oil,job done.Am I missing anything,any tips or advice anyone would give?How many of you are doing this yourselves?

[S Works]

Haven't done it myself (yet), but have watched all mine being done enough times to know that if I'd have had the space and equipment required, it would have been very straightforward.

The SELOC wiki guide is very useful IMO, and there's very little that you can screw up. Just take it slowly first-time and I'm sure you'll be fine.

[danwebster]

Yep piece of cake, there's nothing more to it than that.

Oil filter doesn't need to be tight, just tweak it up by hand otherwise you'll find it difficult to get off at your next oil change.

Its a good idea to soak the filter with a bit of oil before you fit it, not too much though or you'll pour it in your eye when putting it on.

[jondude]

A few things you can add to your list for the 'perfect' change:

1. Take the undertray off.
2. Go for a spin. 15-20 minutes
3. Remove filler cap and dipstick
4. Remove sump plug and drain oil
5. Remove filter.

Have a cup of tea and watch West Ham on the telly.

6. Prime filter, put back on.
7. Replace sump plug
8. Replace undertray and lower car.
9. Bring oil level to just below max
10 Start engine, let idle for 60-90 seconds.
11. Check oil, bring back to just under max.

Phone 606 to complain that 'West Ham wuz robbed'

Sorted!

PS Don't forget to buy a new sump plug washer.

Edited by jondude on Sunday 26th April 15:00

[bencollins]

put newpaper down, there´s always a couple of dribbles (at least).

[MadProf]

Hey cheers guys,I appreciate the tips,and I'm sure I'll be fine,have done oil changes before but not on a Lotus.

[stringthing]

jondude said:

A few things you can add to your list for the 'perfect' change:

1. Take the undertray off.
2. Go for a spin. 15-20 minutes
3. Remove filler cap and dipstick
4. Remove sump plug and drain oil
5. Remove filter.

Have a cup of tea and watch West Ham on the telly.

6. Prime filter, put back on.
7. Replace sump plug
8. Replace undertray and lower car.
9. Bring oil level to just below max
10 Start engine, let idle for 60-90 seconds.
11. Check oil, bring back to just under max.

Phone 606 to complain that 'West Ham wuz robbed'

Sorted!

PS Don't forget to buy a new sump plug washer.

Edited by jondude on Sunday 26th April 15:00

I'm sure everyone realises, but just in case anyone really isn't sure what they're doing, after Step 2 above its probably best to let the oil cool for 10 minutes or so before moving on.

[GravelBen]

If you've never changed oil before before you'll probably drop the sump bung in your oil pan when the hot oil hits your hand on the way out

[JTBUSH]

So wear two pairs of latex gloves!

[Gad-Westy]

stringthing said:

jondude said:

A few things you can add to your list for the 'perfect' change:

1. Take the undertray off.
2. Go for a spin. 15-20 minutes
3. Remove filler cap and dipstick
4. Remove sump plug and drain oil
5. Remove filter.

Have a cup of tea and watch West Ham on the telly.

6. Prime filter, put back on.
7. Replace sump plug
8. Replace undertray and lower car.
9. Bring oil level to just below max
10 Start engine, let idle for 60-90 seconds.
11. Check oil, bring back to just under max.

Phone 606 to complain that 'West Ham wuz robbed'

Sorted!

PS Don't forget to buy a new sump plug washer.

Edited by jondude on Sunday 26th April 15:00

I'm sure everyone realises, but just in case anyone really isn't sure what they're doing, after Step 2 above its probably best to let the oil cool for 10 minutes or so before moving on.

Also smear oil onto the new filter's seal before fitting it to help get a good seal.

I'd also consider leaving the undertray off while you fill it back up to check for any drips from the plug or filter. Add a few minutes to the procedure if you're using ramps but adds some peace of mind value.

[jondude]

Yep, good additions from Gad and String above.

[21TonyK]

This threads reminded me I was going to do a change soon. One consideration is whether the car should be level when draining the oil. for me the simplest method is to reverse up onto ramps but will this leave a load of oil in the sump?

[Ganglandboss]

21TonyK said:

This threads reminded me I was going to do a change soon. One consideration is whether the car should be level when draining the oil. for me the simplest method is to reverse up onto ramps but will this leave a load of oil in the sump?

In K-series cars, the plug is at the front of the sump so if anything, being on ramps probably helps. I'm not sure about the 'Yota engined cars though.

Edited by Ganglandboss on Monday 27th April 16:39

[TIPPER]

The sump plug on K engined cars is on the forward side of the block so up on ramps/stands helps it to drain fully. Not sure about the Yota engine I'm afraid Tony.

[AdrianR]

I've been converted to using an oil extractor on my S1 - e.g. PELA 6000. Much less messy. This sucks oil out through the dipstick tube so ideally NSF wheel needs to be on a block to tip the oil back to the OSR corner.

Still need to take the undertray off to change the filter, but much less chance of ending up with your own Exxon Valdez and no worries about stripping threads on the sump plug.

AdrianR

Edited by AdrianR on Monday 27th April 16:42

[21TonyK]

TIPPER said:

The sump plug on K engined cars is on the forward side of the block so up on ramps/stands helps it to drain fully. Not sure about the Yota engine I'm afraid Tony.

Typical, it's on the back

Cheers Tim

[Gad-Westy]

21TonyK said:

TIPPER said:

The sump plug on K engined cars is on the forward side of the block so up on ramps/stands helps it to drain fully. Not sure about the Yota engine I'm afraid Tony.

Typical, it's on the back

Cheers Tim

Easy, drive the front end onto the ramps instead!

[MadProf]

This is all good stuff,ordered my filter and replacement sump plug today so once I've got them,all I'll need is a nice sunny day(don't have a garage.I'm actually quite looking forward to doing this myself and I know once I've done it I'll never look back.

[bencollins]

Dont like the concept of an oil extractor via the dipstick, you want all the grit going down and out IMO. You can also make an upside down J with your little finger and wearing a thimble do a 360 to make sure all the particles are out, a bent magnetic tool works even better. (after its cooled!!). Dont forget to clean the area where the oil filter attaches, same j finger technique/magnet/rag.
What do people think about "slick 50" or whatever it was called? hocus pocus or useful? there must be figures somewhere. always wondered about adding this once your 5000 miles is running in is done.

[Gad-Westy]

bencollins said:

Dont like the concept of an oil extractor via the dipstick, you want all the grit going down and out IMO. You can also make an upside down J with your little finger and wearing a thimble do a 360 to make sure all the particles are out, a bent magnetic tool works even better. (after its cooled!!). Dont forget to clean the area where the oil filter attaches, same j finger technique/magnet/rag.
What do people think about "slick 50" or whatever it was called? hocus pocus or useful? there must be figures somewhere. always wondered about adding this once your 5000 miles is running in is done.

The only experience I have with Slick 50 is that it made my XE engine very tappety. I'd personally just stick to good quality fully synthetic oil and regualr changes.