how to change rear wheel bearings?
how to change rear wheel bearings?
Author
Discussion

kabaman

Original Poster:

198 posts

268 months

Monday 27th April 2009
quotequote all
Having upgraded my front brakes I'm now moving to Griff 500 rear brakes on my Griff 4.0.

I have the larger discs and wider calipers and have second hand bearing carriers to give me the increased spacing for the larger disc.

I am going to change the wheel bearings whilst I've got the lot apart.

Does anyone have a guide to doing this. I have the hub out of the carrier but I still have one bearing on the hub and the outer of the bearing stuck in the carrier. It isn't obvious how I can even get these bits apart without even considering how I might get them back together. If anyone's been throuhg a rear wheel bearing change could they spare some advice please.

Thanks,

Neil

Pupp

12,966 posts

301 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
I used a little three leg puller to get the bearing off the hub and the outer races will drift out of the carrier with careful use of a drift (strangely enough). Just tap a little on each side from behind so it jiggles out bit by bit (there's enough showing to get some purchase on the back). The old races can be used to drift the new ones in if you haven't got a press.

Have fun doing the hub nut up hehe

kabaman

Original Poster:

198 posts

268 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Cheers Pup, I'll give it a try exactly as you suggest.

Neil

kabaman

Original Poster:

198 posts

268 months

Saturday 23rd May 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for the info, it was much easier than I'd imagined.

Neil

Pupp

12,966 posts

301 months

Sunday 24th May 2009
quotequote all
kabaman said:
Thanks for the info, it was much easier than I'd imagined.

Neil
Good man. Did you split it from the drive shaft at the hub end? Relocating that lot always strikes me as the hardest bit

kabaman

Original Poster:

198 posts

268 months

Sunday 24th May 2009
quotequote all
I had the entire hub carriers off. The hard part was locating them as they're such an unusual shape, but a large vice, some rope to the ceiling sorted that out, then a bar through the "access hole" of the hub flange to stop it turning whilst the nut was remove with a long bar. Then hub pulled off with a puller, and splined rear flange removed. Then bearing carrier removed from hub carrier and bearings changed exactly as you mention. To re-assemble I heated the carrier and froze the bearing outers I'm not convinced that this helped.

I can't torque accurately to 200 foot pounds except for the fact that I weigh about 200lbs so if I get all my weight on a 12" bar that should do it :-)

Hubs turn nicely now whereas before they were "notchy" as they rotated.

Cheers,

Neil