final setup
Author
Discussion

MHunter

Original Poster:

125 posts

220 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Anyone care to share their experience with setting up the car so it "feels right" either on the road or on the track? Was it difficult, tedious, long process to adjust suspension, brake balance, ride height, etc. so the car was driveable and behaved as expected? under/oversteer?

MH

V8Dom

3,547 posts

231 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
im interested in this as well...especially starting points with the intrax suspension, coil spring lengths, no of clicks on the shock etc etc..

Im sure its been covered before but i cant find it...

Dom

JoulesCanAm

330 posts

215 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
Me too, I posted a request for Track setup and got very little feedback. There must be guys that track regularly that have figured all this out, at least as a starting point.

LuckyP

6,243 posts

254 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
The factory will provide:

Ride height
Camber
Toe

and give advise on tyre pressures and intrax settings.

When my car went in for it's safety check they set the brake balance. They do this by setting the fronts to lock just before the rears. This ensures that when you out brake yourself, you at least see what you are going to hit!!

The damper settings I found to be the most sensitive to change. They transform the car from a comfy road car on the lowest setting (fully out anti c/w) to the hardest setting (fully in c/w). I think the stiffest I could deal with on track without skipping was 45 clicks. For road use I had 5 clicks front and 10 clicks rear. But it of course dependant on the weight of you car, required comfort level and driving style/preference.

Ride heights are 110 front and 160 rear IIRC. Measured on lower floor skin to ground at wheel centres.

Think I had to compromise the front height as I have a burmp in my driave!

HTH

Pete

martinlaw

283 posts

251 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
For normal road use i have 6 clicks on the front dampers and 10 on the rears.

For fast road use 8 clicks front and 12 rear.(still a reasonably comfortable ride quality on the crap roads in staffordshire!)

Track use in the dry 30 front and 35-40 rear - wet, fast road settings

If using Kumo tyres - factory will give you the settings they use for track use.

Settings will always be a compromise if using the car on the track and road.

Hope this helps?
Martin.

Pb3

1,064 posts

275 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
The other important thing to take in consideration is the bump steer, spend the time getting that sorted and the other parameters are somewhat less important IMO.

Crazy of Cookham

740 posts

284 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
I have found figures very close to Martin for track. I have converted to track bias stiffer springs which stop the back end lifting on corners. It does make road driving a little more harsh. Tend to run on road at 10F 15B unless on long distance mways when happy to take back to zero. Ran brunters at weekend with 20F 30R, still little stiff as surface rough and car tends to skip. I guess if you know what you are doing(and I don't) you would fine tune depending on which track you are driving.

JoulesCanAm

330 posts

215 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
Pb3 said:
The other important thing to take in consideration is the bump steer, spend the time getting that sorted and the other parameters are somewhat less important IMO.
So are you guys spacing the rack to correct this?, I must admit I hadn't noticed bump steer, but then I haven't driven very far either.

Steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
JoulesCanAm said:
Pb3 said:
The other important thing to take in consideration is the bump steer, spend the time getting that sorted and the other parameters are somewhat less important IMO.
So are you guys spacing the rack to correct this?, I must admit I hadn't noticed bump steer, but then I haven't driven very far either.
I think most of us have either done it or had it done with varying amounts of correction required.
The correction requires a small amount of slotting of the fixing holes in the bulkhead so the rack can be aligned vertically.

Steve

LuckyP

6,243 posts

254 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
Crazy of Cookham said:
...... Ran brunters at weekend.....
And?

bluesatin

3,115 posts

301 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
I think Crazy was doing 176mph- just seen him out in the car so will most prob reply latter

LuckyP

6,243 posts

254 months

Wednesday 29th April 2009
quotequote all
bluesatin said:
I think Crazy was doing 176mph- just seen him out in the car so will most prob reply latter
G50 03 std 7000 Vmax then frown Bring on the Pork!!!!

MHunter

Original Poster:

125 posts

220 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
going off topic here, but isn't it much cheaper to just change your gear ratio than to buy a high-end Porsche if you want to go faster?


LuckyP

6,243 posts

254 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
MHunter said:
going off topic here, but isn't it much cheaper to just change your gear ratio than to buy a high-end Porsche if you want to go faster?
Damn. I should have tried that! wink

bluesatin

3,115 posts

301 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
Porker 187mph!

LuckyP

6,243 posts

254 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
bluesatin said:
Porker 187mph!
Probably with a hot beverage in on of the many cup holders too?

Crazy of Cookham

740 posts

284 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
176mph it was on Getrag at just under 7,000. 7,000 in 5th and around 6,700 on line. Thats about it and could probably achieved the same from a standing start at the end of runway.
What I will say Lucky is its a very different experience in an open top car at those speeds.
Thanks to Blue for ride in Turbo and thanks to Paul for letting me behind the wheel of the GT3, still trying to get the internal organs back in place after a few of the bends.
Only Ultima at vmax this time, poor show chaps.

V8Dom

3,547 posts

231 months

Thursday 30th April 2009
quotequote all
and what tyre pressures are you guys running???

Also if i chasnge the ride height i presume it will alter tracking and camber??

thanks Dom

JoulesCanAm

330 posts

215 months

Friday 1st May 2009
quotequote all
martinlaw said:
If using Kumo tyres - factory will give you the settings they use for track use.

Martin.
Thanks for the advice and settings, as always Ted came back within 24 hrs. He gave me the following, plus a document on how to measure and correct the bump steer.

Ride height was standard. 110mm front. 160mm rear
Front negative camber was increased from 1.5 to 2.0 degrees
Rear negative camber was increased from 0.5 to 1.2 degrees.
Rear toe increased from 1mm to 2mm overall
Tyre pressures were front 16psi rear 21psi hot
Dampers were all set at 40 clicks (Intrax)
Road springs were 25% stiffer which are an optional extra at £320 per set.
Tyres were the Kumho Ecsta V70A medium compound all round that are on our price lists and a standard option in addition to the Goodyears
Transaxle was a standard Porsche G50-03


deadscoob

2,265 posts

289 months

Friday 1st May 2009
quotequote all
What does the doc say to correct bumpsteer?