Source for pre-preg fibreglass sheet approx 2mm thick?
Discussion
No idea, but what's it for, and why not just make your own?
I've never done it with glass fibre, but I've used carbon fibre to make flat sheets simply by laying up a couple of layers onto a sheet of plate glass, coated with release wax.
I'd have thought that any local fibreglass company in the Yellow Pages could do the same for you, but they'll charge you for the privilege.
I've never done it with glass fibre, but I've used carbon fibre to make flat sheets simply by laying up a couple of layers onto a sheet of plate glass, coated with release wax.
I'd have thought that any local fibreglass company in the Yellow Pages could do the same for you, but they'll charge you for the privilege.
Edited by Sam_68 on Wednesday 29th April 22:21
Sam_68 said:
I've never done it with glass fibre, but I've used carbon fibre to make flat sheets simply by laying up a couple of layers onto a sheet of plate glass, coated with release wax.
Just don't do what I did and weigh another sheet of glass on top without sweeping the worktop down first. Glass doesn't like being weighed down onto a sawn off M2 screw head 
Anyone interested in working with fibreglass might like to come along to the Complete Kit Car Workshop Live forum at the Stoneleigh show this weekend. John Dickens will discuss and demonstrate how to repair GRP. It's completely free (although you'll obviously need to pay to get into the show unless you turn up in a kit car!), and will take place at 11am on both the Sunday and Monday.
Auntieroll said:
Why not carve the shape you require out of P/U foam,lay up carefully over the resultant form,when cured remove the foam,flat down, fill and paint if a cosmetically appealing surface finish is wanted/needed.
No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
The resin will eat the foam even if you cover it with clingfilm. Ask me how I know.No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
Steve
Steve_D said:
Auntieroll said:
Why not carve the shape you require out of P/U foam,lay up carefully over the resultant form,when cured remove the foam,flat down, fill and paint if a cosmetically appealing surface finish is wanted/needed.
No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
The resin will eat the foam even if you cover it with clingfilm. Ask me how I know.No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
Steve
It's weird how it suddenly clicks when you're standing there watching it all melt.....Steve_D said:
Auntieroll said:
Why not carve the shape you require out of P/U foam,lay up carefully over the resultant form,when cured remove the foam,flat down, fill and paint if a cosmetically appealing surface finish is wanted/needed.
No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
The resin will eat the foam even if you cover it with clingfilm. Ask me how I know.No female mould and exactly the shape you want quick and cheap!
If you use epoxy resin, you'll be just fine. A similar technique is used to build some home-built car and aircraft (like the Vortex 3-wheeler and the Rutan Vari-Eze aircraft), except that the foam is usually left in place.
Correction,the polyester resin will NOT eat PolyUrethane foam,but as you correctly point out,will eat expanded polystyrene foam.Perhaps I should have used the full name rather than the abbreviated "P/U"in my original post.
Incidentally,epoxy will not attack either types of foam,but is a lot more expensive to use and limits the types of glass that can be used.If epoxy is used in conjunction with expanded polystyrene the foam can be dissolved out using thinners,can be useful if rather messy when the shape is complex.
(Just dragged my Vortex stuff out,they call the foam "Urethane",but they laid up using polyester resin and glass fibre.)
Incidentally,epoxy will not attack either types of foam,but is a lot more expensive to use and limits the types of glass that can be used.If epoxy is used in conjunction with expanded polystyrene the foam can be dissolved out using thinners,can be useful if rather messy when the shape is complex.
(Just dragged my Vortex stuff out,they call the foam "Urethane",but they laid up using polyester resin and glass fibre.)
Edited by Auntieroll on Thursday 30th April 16:29
Most coach, truck body or trailer builders will help you with sheets.
if not 8'x4' sheet of painted finish hardboard from DIY store and lay up your own, either 2 x layers 300gsm chop or woven or 1 x 450gsm if you want it thin enough to cut with decent scissors when cured.
as for foam, polyester wont affect most forms of polurethane foam, but some obviosuly arent pure and can still be affected. Builders 'blue' foam is fine and can be carved into shape easily or use epoxy resin rather than poly which is fine even on 'white' foam
if not 8'x4' sheet of painted finish hardboard from DIY store and lay up your own, either 2 x layers 300gsm chop or woven or 1 x 450gsm if you want it thin enough to cut with decent scissors when cured.
as for foam, polyester wont affect most forms of polurethane foam, but some obviosuly arent pure and can still be affected. Builders 'blue' foam is fine and can be carved into shape easily or use epoxy resin rather than poly which is fine even on 'white' foam
I use the stuff that is used in cold store insulation and roofing( with the foil on one side) as I'm lucky enough to have a mate who gets it for me FOC when his firm is scrapping installations so I don't know the trade name.
The high expansion stuff that comes in cans for sealing gaps is also OK if you only need a small block to work with.
Using polyester resin I did once have slight problems with the blue foam ,but have never had any with the yellowy buff closed cell P/U,always a first time though!
For an airbox sized moulding I would be inclined to use the white foam/epoxy method and dissolve the foam out when cured.
The high expansion stuff that comes in cans for sealing gaps is also OK if you only need a small block to work with.
Using polyester resin I did once have slight problems with the blue foam ,but have never had any with the yellowy buff closed cell P/U,always a first time though!
For an airbox sized moulding I would be inclined to use the white foam/epoxy method and dissolve the foam out when cured.
There is a company called East Coast Fibreglass Supplies who have a good website and sell Epoxy as well as various different types of cloths etc;their resins are of good quality compared to some out there.
I can recommend their mail order service as well.
The last time I priced an 8'x4'x3" sheet of P/U foam it was £75!!,
hence the attraction of the freebie stuff.
I can recommend their mail order service as well.
The last time I priced an 8'x4'x3" sheet of P/U foam it was £75!!,
hence the attraction of the freebie stuff.
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