Discussion
I have refitted and bled my new clutch slave cylinder.
I have noticed that the clutch pedal can move a good inch as you push it down with no resistance from the master cyclinder, it's like the shaft isn't attached to the master cylinder. As you push further you get the resistance, the clutch travel seem short at around a inch
Bearing mind I didn't refit this is it a faulty cylinder or should I unclip the shaft from the pedal and see if it screws in to the master cylinder, as if it screws in this may have been missed on the rebuild.
Thanks
M
I have noticed that the clutch pedal can move a good inch as you push it down with no resistance from the master cyclinder, it's like the shaft isn't attached to the master cylinder. As you push further you get the resistance, the clutch travel seem short at around a inch
Bearing mind I didn't refit this is it a faulty cylinder or should I unclip the shaft from the pedal and see if it screws in to the master cylinder, as if it screws in this may have been missed on the rebuild.
Thanks
M
Not had a TVR clutch master cyl. apart but looks very similar to units used on loads of cars "back in my day", if it is there should be a light spring inside to push piston back when clutch released (although returning fluid should do most of the work) could piston be sticking ? not unusual for crud and corrosion to build up on the outer part of the bore/piston
HTH Mike
HTH Mike
mikea4tdi said:
I have refitted and bled my new clutch slave cylinder.
I have noticed that the clutch pedal can move a good inch as you push it down with no resistance from the master cyclinder, it's like the shaft isn't attached to the master cylinder. As you push further you get the resistance, the clutch travel seem short at around a inch
Bearing mind I didn't refit this is it a faulty cylinder or should I unclip the shaft from the pedal and see if it screws in to the master cylinder, as if it screws in this may have been missed on the rebuild.
Thanks
M
Just after I bought my S3 I had to replace the seals in my clutch master cylinder, after I took it apart and rebuilt it I had the same issues as you, what I think is doing it is the clutch pedal return spring always holding the pedal "up" therefore when you press the pedal you have that slight free play you talked about, not sure what the answer is though.I have noticed that the clutch pedal can move a good inch as you push it down with no resistance from the master cyclinder, it's like the shaft isn't attached to the master cylinder. As you push further you get the resistance, the clutch travel seem short at around a inch
Bearing mind I didn't refit this is it a faulty cylinder or should I unclip the shaft from the pedal and see if it screws in to the master cylinder, as if it screws in this may have been missed on the rebuild.
Thanks
M
Cheers.....Tony..
That is exactly whats happening, the clutch pedal is being held up by the return spring,
as the clutch cylinder rod is held by the pedal this is pulled back up with it, giving the free travel, that why I wondered if the rod should be screwed into the master cylinder? Doesn't seem right I should have a floppy pedal for the first inch of travel.
M
as the clutch cylinder rod is held by the pedal this is pulled back up with it, giving the free travel, that why I wondered if the rod should be screwed into the master cylinder? Doesn't seem right I should have a floppy pedal for the first inch of travel.
M
as phillpot said,
recently had mine apart, my problem was corrosion, which meant the
piston didnt come out far enough, which leads to only a small amound
of fluid can get in the cylinder, when bleeding.
i cleaned mine so the piston came right out (before, the corrosion stopped it)
allowing more fluid, same as when new.
recently had mine apart, my problem was corrosion, which meant the
piston didnt come out far enough, which leads to only a small amound
of fluid can get in the cylinder, when bleeding.
i cleaned mine so the piston came right out (before, the corrosion stopped it)
allowing more fluid, same as when new.
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