is this the start of joo's return?
Discussion
Yup.
Bandit said:
How easy are these chips to install - anyone got any idea?
My Cerbera runs very hot and this looks like a good solution.
Open up the ECU (4 allen bolts) very carefully take out the existing chip, replace with new chip and screw the lid back on. It's as simple as that.My Cerbera runs very hot and this looks like a good solution.
I've said it before, but I'll say it again; does it run hot or does that gauge over read? Get the laptop plugged in and compare the temp' on the laptop to that of the gauge before you panic about overheating.
But, having said that Jools' chip is a worthwile edition even if everything's running as it should.
Tim
TT Tim said:
I've said it before, but I'll say it again; does it run hot or does that gauge over read? Get the laptop plugged in and compare the temp' on the laptop to that of the gauge before you panic about overheating.
Really, you need to get an external measure of water temp too (e.g. take the F1 panel off and use an IR thermometer on the pipe around the water temp sensor).When my water temp sensor failed, it initially seemed to be giving semi-sensible results to the ECU, which led me to think it was the capilliary tube (which you basically can't trust at all), and then the thermostat.
TT Tim said:
Bandit said:
How easy are these chips to install - anyone got any idea?
My Cerbera runs very hot and this looks like a good solution.
Open up the ECU (4 allen bolts) very carefully take out the existing chip, replace with new chip and screw the lid back on. It's as simple as that.My Cerbera runs very hot and this looks like a good solution.
I've said it before, but I'll say it again; does it run hot or does that gauge over read? Get the laptop plugged in and compare the temp' on the laptop to that of the gauge before you panic about overheating.
But, having said that Jools' chip is a worthwile edition even if everything's running as it should.
Tim
I'm hoping I have an over reading guage, as the car normally sits around 90-95 and goes off the the scale 100-110+ very quickly whilst stuck in traffic before finally coming back down a bit when the fans kick in.
The temperature gauge in the car is fed by a capilliary tube which runs over the top of the exhaust manifold on the water rail on the driver's side.
I moved mine to run in the valley under the fuel rail and now the in-car reading is very similiar to the reading on the diagnostics on the laptop.
It makes for a much happier time in traffic in the summer
Cheers
Ed
I moved mine to run in the valley under the fuel rail and now the in-car reading is very similiar to the reading on the diagnostics on the laptop.
It makes for a much happier time in traffic in the summer
Cheers
Ed
I have a 4.2, and do plenty of city driving in it. In January (so, not a warm month), it would regularly pass 90, and in heavy traffic reached 100 (obviously indicated, not necessarily actual. This is a TVR guage we are talking about 
).
I had Joo fit the ECU cooling chip, and you can hear the fans kick in earlier, but also shut off earlier than they did. The temperature is now much "steadier" in traffic, usually max of 90, only in central London this weekend did it get to 95.
To reduce under bonnet temperature, and to reduce driver worries, deffo a worthwhile mod imo.
).I had Joo fit the ECU cooling chip, and you can hear the fans kick in earlier, but also shut off earlier than they did. The temperature is now much "steadier" in traffic, usually max of 90, only in central London this weekend did it get to 95.
To reduce under bonnet temperature, and to reduce driver worries, deffo a worthwhile mod imo.
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