Discussion
king hate Diffs/mounts & poxy drive shafts that aren't up to it Quinny said:
Ant. said:
Readman racing did mine Andy , up in Blackpool.
New seals, bearings and the like. He would probably supply the spares to do a DIY job.
CheersNew seals, bearings and the like. He would probably supply the spares to do a DIY job.
Yep mines a GKN Diff.
I know I can get seals and bearings etc locally, its info I'm short on. Stuff like pre-load, torque settings and gotchyas
Just tried to download the Maserati manual, from TGP but it ain't working for me.
BB
Quinny said:
Just tried to download the Maserati manual, from TGP but it ain't working for me.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...theres a link in that thread if it works, otherwise email me and I'll send you the pdf file.
Bluebottle said:
Quinny said:
Just tried to download the Maserati manual, from TGP but it ain't working for me.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...theres a link in that thread if it works, otherwise email me and I'll send you the pdf file.
The first thing you need to check before you start writing off the diff is to check the pinion shaft preload, hopefully Crowley on the BTR diff thread will also read this!
I am pretty sure the BTR & GKN use the same method which is a collapsable washer behind the pinion drive flange(where the prop bolts on) to set the preload.
It is not uncommon for the flange nut to work its self loose therefore allowing the pinion gear to move away from the diff gear resulting in the 'clonking' noise & seal leak, the nut cannot fall off due to the prop flange.
When the Griff/Chims where the main TVR models the diffs seemed to have got a bit of a bad reputation for failures but in truth many where condemed by main dealers & indies alike when they did not need to be
I managed to save a fellow PH member alot of money when the extended warranty expired on his Griff & the then main dealer told him it needed a new diff due to the clonking. I checked the pinion nut & found that it was little more than finger tight
....3/4 drive socket & T bar retighten & hey presto no more clonking noise & no subsequent issues 
Bodders
I am pretty sure the BTR & GKN use the same method which is a collapsable washer behind the pinion drive flange(where the prop bolts on) to set the preload.
It is not uncommon for the flange nut to work its self loose therefore allowing the pinion gear to move away from the diff gear resulting in the 'clonking' noise & seal leak, the nut cannot fall off due to the prop flange.
When the Griff/Chims where the main TVR models the diffs seemed to have got a bit of a bad reputation for failures but in truth many where condemed by main dealers & indies alike when they did not need to be
I managed to save a fellow PH member alot of money when the extended warranty expired on his Griff & the then main dealer told him it needed a new diff due to the clonking. I checked the pinion nut & found that it was little more than finger tight
....3/4 drive socket & T bar retighten & hey presto no more clonking noise & no subsequent issues Bodders
I have not found any torque setting for the nut which is logical as the washer is designed to collapse at a preset torque.
I tightened the nut as hard as I could with a 3/4 drive T bar which was about approx 1 1/2ft long....no 6ft extentsions or something may give
I was suprised there was no locking mechanism like a tab or split pin condsidering the speed the pinion can rotate at like you would find, for example, on a wheel bearing.
Bodders
I tightened the nut as hard as I could with a 3/4 drive T bar which was about approx 1 1/2ft long....no 6ft extentsions or something may give
I was suprised there was no locking mechanism like a tab or split pin condsidering the speed the pinion can rotate at like you would find, for example, on a wheel bearing.
Bodders
Quinny said:
steve-V8s said:
Take out the innards and fit an ATB
Do you have any instructions for thisCos I'll do it you know.....
Remove Diff and fit spare (you should find spare in cardboard box under work bench in shed)
Take to CTS (The gearbox man when in the area).
Return to CTS when next in the area, give them lots of money, collect Diff.
Feel a bit disappointed that they didn’t tart up the outside.
Clean up and slap on some paint.
Fill with oil.
Remove spare and place back under bench, move paint pots first.
Refit to car
Bodmin said:
The first thing you need to check before you start writing off the diff is to check the pinion shaft preload, hopefully Crowley on the BTR diff thread will also read this!
I am pretty sure the BTR & GKN use the same method which is a collapsable washer behind the pinion drive flange(where the prop bolts on) to set the preload.
It is not uncommon for the flange nut to work its self loose therefore allowing the pinion gear to move away from the diff gear resulting in the 'clonking' noise & seal leak, the nut cannot fall off due to the prop flange.
When the Griff/Chims where the main TVR models the diffs seemed to have got a bit of a bad reputation for failures but in truth many where condemed by main dealers & indies alike when they did not need to be
I managed to save a fellow PH member alot of money when the extended warranty expired on his Griff & the then main dealer told him it needed a new diff due to the clonking. I checked the pinion nut & found that it was little more than finger tight....3/4 drive socket & T bar retighten & hey presto no more clonking noise & no subsequent issues
Bodders
Could that cause a drone as well? I am pretty sure the BTR & GKN use the same method which is a collapsable washer behind the pinion drive flange(where the prop bolts on) to set the preload.
It is not uncommon for the flange nut to work its self loose therefore allowing the pinion gear to move away from the diff gear resulting in the 'clonking' noise & seal leak, the nut cannot fall off due to the prop flange.
When the Griff/Chims where the main TVR models the diffs seemed to have got a bit of a bad reputation for failures but in truth many where condemed by main dealers & indies alike when they did not need to be
I managed to save a fellow PH member alot of money when the extended warranty expired on his Griff & the then main dealer told him it needed a new diff due to the clonking. I checked the pinion nut & found that it was little more than finger tight
....3/4 drive socket & T bar retighten & hey presto no more clonking noise & no subsequent issues Bodders
Mine clonks and drones far more than I'd expect for 30K miles. It's not bad, it's just not quiet in operation.
Potentially, as the pinion gear may not be fully meshing with the diff gears reducing the drive contact area...a bit like the whining noise you sometimes get when a starter motor gear does not fully mesh with the flywheel teeth.
I am not saying this is the cure for all ails but it is certainly worth checking before spending time/money removing the diff from the car.
Bodders
I am not saying this is the cure for all ails but it is certainly worth checking before spending time/money removing the diff from the car.
Bodders
There are a couple of bearings in the diff that are no longer available through bearing factors. They were a special order made for GKN by FAG bearings. Maserati is rumoured to have a few left for about £100 for each bearing.
An alternative has been identified that, with the addition of a specially made shim is a substitute.
DNB did his recently and developed the shim.
An alternative has been identified that, with the addition of a specially made shim is a substitute.
DNB did his recently and developed the shim.
Bodmin said:
Potentially, as the pinion gear may not be fully meshing with the diff gears reducing the drive contact area...a bit like the whining noise you sometimes get when a starter motor gear does not fully mesh with the flywheel teeth.
I am not saying this is the cure for all ails but it is certainly worth checking before spending time/money removing the diff from the car.
Bodders
Amen to that... Next time my diff has to come out I'm paying someone else to do it I am not saying this is the cure for all ails but it is certainly worth checking before spending time/money removing the diff from the car.
Bodders
Yes that's true...
The original outer bearings were double sealed 19mm wide. No-one seemed to sell them at any price when I looked, and 17mm diameter bearings of equivelent quality cost £7.50 so I had a set of 2mm shims turned up for the outer race, and had the new spacers on the output shafts turned up to be 2mm longer than standard. (These spacers are also difficult to get, so making them was the easiest option anyway.)
I also had a solid spacer made so I didn't have to use the collapsible thing. Mine had collapsed further than desirable.
The original outer bearings were double sealed 19mm wide. No-one seemed to sell them at any price when I looked, and 17mm diameter bearings of equivelent quality cost £7.50 so I had a set of 2mm shims turned up for the outer race, and had the new spacers on the output shafts turned up to be 2mm longer than standard. (These spacers are also difficult to get, so making them was the easiest option anyway.)
I also had a solid spacer made so I didn't have to use the collapsible thing. Mine had collapsed further than desirable.
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