S3 Ignition Switch
Discussion
Hi there Chaps... does anyone know the part no. for the above item...??
I am going to replace it in an effort to get over the failure to start issue.
I get a click from my solenoid but no spinning starter motor.
The starter motor has been replaced with a reconditioned one and all
the relevant cable connections including lugs have been renewed.
This is not a hot start thing cos it happens when cold.. the battery is new and charged.
My theory goes...If the ignition switch is making a poor contact due to age then I may not be
getting the full 12 volts at the solenoid.. hence clicky clicky and no spinny spinny...
I have not check this with a voltmeter yet .
Thanks Paul.
I am going to replace it in an effort to get over the failure to start issue.
I get a click from my solenoid but no spinning starter motor.
The starter motor has been replaced with a reconditioned one and all
the relevant cable connections including lugs have been renewed.
This is not a hot start thing cos it happens when cold.. the battery is new and charged.
My theory goes...If the ignition switch is making a poor contact due to age then I may not be
getting the full 12 volts at the solenoid.. hence clicky clicky and no spinny spinny...
I have not check this with a voltmeter yet .
Thanks Paul.
kenpage said:
hi paul if the solonoid is clicking the ign switch is ok try running a seperate earth from a starter motor mounting bolt to the chassis or even try a temp earth back to the battery negative you could use a jump lead for the test be lucky
I'd agree - it sounds like a bad earth - good enough to throw the solenoid but not good enough for the massive current the motor needs - we are talking 500 to 600 amps when it is cold.Also check the big fat live cable too from the motor to the battery - the same symptom applies if thats got a duff connection either at the battery or starter motor.
Edited by Barkychoc on Friday 8th May 15:59
kenpage said:
hi paul if the solonoid is clicking the ign switch is ok try running a seperate earth from a starter motor mounting bolt to the chassis or even try a temp earth back to the battery negative you could use a jump lead for the test be lucky
Hmm...dodgy earth...I hear what your saying guys... I have renewed the main cable that supplies that massive current which the motor consumes including new lugs freshly crimped on by my own hand. The starter motor is bolted on with three bolts thru its mounting flange to the engine block. The motor is a 're-manufactured' jobby so presumably its earthing is good. The wire that energises the solenoid from the ignition switch has a new lug and is on tight. This is an intermittant fault.. when it happens again assuming I'm with someone I'll measure the voltage present at the solenoid..
Of course it could be s
tted up main solenoid contacts which were not stripped and dressed up in the remanufacturing process..I'll keep you posted... in the meantime has anyone got a part number for the ignition switch..
Cheers guys for pondering this prob...
Paul
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with the switch - if you're getting the click then its getting juice there. I don't think the ignition switch is a known weak point either.
Why don't you remove the motor and test it on the bench?
You'll have to fabricate some wires but you already have the old live feed wire - so that just leaves the earth to sort (you could just carefully hold it on the battery terminal -ve).
Then just get a short bit of wire from the big positive terminal on the starter (where you just connected the wire from the battery) and touch the other end onto the small terminal.
It should click then spin up straight away.
Alternatively take it off and take it back to where you got it and ask them to show you it being tested.
A reputable place really won't mind.
Why don't you remove the motor and test it on the bench?
You'll have to fabricate some wires but you already have the old live feed wire - so that just leaves the earth to sort (you could just carefully hold it on the battery terminal -ve).
Then just get a short bit of wire from the big positive terminal on the starter (where you just connected the wire from the battery) and touch the other end onto the small terminal.
It should click then spin up straight away.
Alternatively take it off and take it back to where you got it and ask them to show you it being tested.
A reputable place really won't mind.
Barkychoc said:
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with the switch - if you're getting the click then its getting juice there. I don't think the ignition switch is a known weak point either.
Cheers Chris.. I have been advised by a friend in the motor trade who has encountered this prob.. he maintains the switch is at fault.The solenoid may only partially energise with a reduced voltage. I say this because... a common fault on our cars is the drivers door electric window which operates slowly.. if you unplug the lead that supplies the winder motor and measure the voltage whilst operating the switch you'll probably get a reading of around 9 volts. Cleaning all the spade connections with an abrasive spatula will increase that voltage to closer to twelve volts and the winder will wind up quicker.
Yes.. I could take the motor back but I gottta prove the switch first..I'll keep you all posted.
Is the ignition switch off a sierra or an escort circa 88,89... anyone!!!
Paul
Barkychoc said:
God I don't beleive it - I am being so thick.
It will be the yellow connector that has melted in the steering column I betcha.
It comes off the ignition switch I think.
Pic from Norman (Gerald-TVR)
Ok Chaps this old chestnut again... It will be the yellow connector that has melted in the steering column I betcha.
It comes off the ignition switch I think.
Pic from Norman (Gerald-TVR)
My yellow connector was showing slight signs of overheating on one spade.
After replacing the connector with ordinary connector strip I have had no starting problems since...
A big thank you for the advice Chaps.
Cheers
Paul.
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