Discussion
janrover said:
Cold start, perfect.Warm start till a half hour no problem.
But start after 1 until 4 ours, it starts bad on 3 or 4 cilinders, but after 2 or 3 minutes it runs better and after 5 minutes it runs smoothly.Any idea ?
P.S The wedge is a 2.8i
It could be due to heat from the engine vapourising the fuel in the lines. It won't effect it during running because fuel is constantly circulated around back to the 'cool' tank.But start after 1 until 4 ours, it starts bad on 3 or 4 cilinders, but after 2 or 3 minutes it runs better and after 5 minutes it runs smoothly.Any idea ?
P.S The wedge is a 2.8i
Maybe look at re-positioning of the fuel hoses away from very hot parts of the engine
Thanks Peatorque, But it's not a question of vapourising, because there are more air vents than usuel in the bonnet.
A old mecanicien says it's maybe the injectors that leakes after stopping the engine and therefore makes the sparks wet, but the injectors are allready cleaned, but the results are the same.
I dont now what to do next.
ANYONE?
A old mecanicien says it's maybe the injectors that leakes after stopping the engine and therefore makes the sparks wet, but the injectors are allready cleaned, but the results are the same.
I dont now what to do next.
ANYONE?
Mechanical fuel injection?
From what I remember these have a cold start valve. I can't recall exactly (I had an old Ford with this system) but either the valve itself or the sensor that controls it can cause over fueling, if it thinks that the engine is cooler than it actually is. You could try renewing this.
You may have more luck posting in the TVR 'S' or Ford forums as they may be more familiar with that engine.
From what I remember these have a cold start valve. I can't recall exactly (I had an old Ford with this system) but either the valve itself or the sensor that controls it can cause over fueling, if it thinks that the engine is cooler than it actually is. You could try renewing this.
You may have more luck posting in the TVR 'S' or Ford forums as they may be more familiar with that engine.
Unplug the plug to the cold start injector and try that.
I would also add another tid-bit, albeit from RX-7 experience.
Ever considered a fuel pump cut off switch? In hot weather and
hot starts I need to do this to my rx-7 or otherwise it's modified
fuel delivery system floods my rotor housings. (cylinders) Once running
things are fine... wedge fine even.
I'm certainly no mechanic but provided air, spark and compression are available,
only too little fuel or too much can mess it up.
My layman's advice (let any mechanic disagree) is to run a switch where your fuel
pump fuse would be. (for testing) If it doesn't start when hot on normal ecu settings,
it may be flooded, switch the fuel pump switch to OFF, and FLOOR the LOUD pedal. This should
expell any gas from the cylinders... as the engine coughs, turn the fuel back on.
Seriously, try it. If it wasn't for that my 7 wouldn't start past June.... too hot... and FWIW,
I'd race it "for pinks" on street rubber against any wedge here... and not in a straight line.
I would also add another tid-bit, albeit from RX-7 experience.
Ever considered a fuel pump cut off switch? In hot weather and
hot starts I need to do this to my rx-7 or otherwise it's modified
fuel delivery system floods my rotor housings. (cylinders) Once running
things are fine... wedge fine even.
I'm certainly no mechanic but provided air, spark and compression are available,
only too little fuel or too much can mess it up.
My layman's advice (let any mechanic disagree) is to run a switch where your fuel
pump fuse would be. (for testing) If it doesn't start when hot on normal ecu settings,
it may be flooded, switch the fuel pump switch to OFF, and FLOOR the LOUD pedal. This should
expell any gas from the cylinders... as the engine coughs, turn the fuel back on.
Seriously, try it. If it wasn't for that my 7 wouldn't start past June.... too hot... and FWIW,
I'd race it "for pinks" on street rubber against any wedge here... and not in a straight line.
I have a 280i and have just started to get the same symptoms as you describe - leave it up to 2 hrs after a run and it does not start on all cylinders - it would seem that it is only on the right hand bank looking forward from the drivers seat that I have a problem as the miss fire is only from that exhaust - mine clears after about 30 seconds but i suspect it will only get worse if I don't find the cause - my feelings are that it is injector based as it only effects the right hand side every time.
Let me know if you find the solution
Cheers
Ian
Let me know if you find the solution
Cheers
Ian
I have recently had a similar problem.
I replaced:
Coil
Ignition Module,
Distributor,
Cap
Rotor arm
Plugs
Leads
Thermo sensor
pressure valve.
I took the fuel injection system apart & cleaned evey contact with contact cleaner, but stil no joy. In desperation I called out a mobile mechanic with diagnostic equipement. He spent 2 hours and was baffled.As a last resort he took the earth leads off, cleaned the contact areas & put them back. It started 1st time, and has not missed a beat since.
I replaced:
Coil
Ignition Module,
Distributor,
Cap
Rotor arm
Plugs
Leads
Thermo sensor
pressure valve.
I took the fuel injection system apart & cleaned evey contact with contact cleaner, but stil no joy. In desperation I called out a mobile mechanic with diagnostic equipement. He spent 2 hours and was baffled.As a last resort he took the earth leads off, cleaned the contact areas & put them back. It started 1st time, and has not missed a beat since.
Sounds like fuel vaporisation to me, it not uncommon for this with K Jet. Just after the fuel pump there is another 'can' it's and accumulator, it's there to take the pressure pulses from the fuel pump, so the injection system sees a nice steady fuel pressure. Built into the accumulator there is a non return valve, this is to maintain fuel pressure after engine shut down, the purpose of this is to keep the fuel in the engine bay fuel lines pressurised to help reduce vaporisation, if the valve fails (or injectors are leaking) you would suffer from vaporisation, if it was a leaky injector you would suffer from vaporisation on the fuel line feeding the injector in question. Get yourself a pressure gauge and start checking pressures.
Regards,
Chris.
Regards,
Chris.
Two components for cold start.
Thermotime switch. This operates two ways, it is timed from the yellow start wire to restrict the amount of time the cold start injecter spits. The second way is by physical heat, or actually, lack of
The other is the Aux air device, it does a similar function, except it allows more air, (and therefore more petrol).
Either of these could think your car is cold. Thus deliver the incorerct amount of fuel.
I doubt you are fuel vapourising badly enough to not start, these cars run and start first time in USA where it gets a little hotter
They should maintain residual system pressure for at least a couple of weeks and start first click everytime hot or cold.
I would start by cleaning aux air device and checking for a dripping cold start injecter. I would be very careful checking fuel pressure when the car is hot. But that would be the next step, if you don't find the problem.
After that it's your WUR, which almost makes a 280 a right off if purchased new.
Thermotime switch. This operates two ways, it is timed from the yellow start wire to restrict the amount of time the cold start injecter spits. The second way is by physical heat, or actually, lack of
The other is the Aux air device, it does a similar function, except it allows more air, (and therefore more petrol).
Either of these could think your car is cold. Thus deliver the incorerct amount of fuel.
I doubt you are fuel vapourising badly enough to not start, these cars run and start first time in USA where it gets a little hotter
They should maintain residual system pressure for at least a couple of weeks and start first click everytime hot or cold.
I would start by cleaning aux air device and checking for a dripping cold start injecter. I would be very careful checking fuel pressure when the car is hot. But that would be the next step, if you don't find the problem.
After that it's your WUR, which almost makes a 280 a right off if purchased new.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff