Grantura restoration questions....
Discussion
Hello!
need some opinions...
I own my Grantura since about 10 years, it is the ex NPE 15D, so it had a cool history, being an ex demo car, used in few magazine in the 60's.
Before i bought it, the car had been stored during more than 10 years. somehow the chassis was rusty but not dead, the car was drivable, body looked not too bad, so a very very deep clean, an engine rebuilt, and brake/suspension check, is what was done, and i drive like that since that.
For 4 years, i work in Lithuania, and the car is in Belgium, but is still driven everytime i m back (despite the fact i since added a Griffith 500 in the garage...
, in fact the last 2 years it did 1500 miles, and mecanically always had what it needed to be in order, in fact it is still drive really well.
But...the chassis is now really bad, so it is time to think about a full restoration, as i would not lile to drive it really a lot with the chassis as it is now.
I plan to keep the car, so i would really like to make a good work on it, including to get back to an original bonnet as it has a Vixen one puted before i owned it.
I know restoration is costly compare to the value in the car, but even i dont have unlimited budget, i m also not in hurry, so if with a bit of cost control, and if monney is planned to be spent in few steps it is no big problem.
so...i have few questions.
-I have few options of people i know very well and who are interested to do it.
One is the one who did all mecanical work on the car since i have it, he know it well, he is professional, restore MG, Triumph...often, so probably can do it ok. He agree to take the car and to do it in his more "quiet time" and if no deadline to finish it, he can make good deal, still of course not cheap it will be, it is in Belgium, so it is easy plan.
other option, is "personaly" cool, as it is my GF's father, but it is...in lithuania. he is body repairer, and to be body repairer in Lithuania like in most eastern countries, means everyday to make look like new, west european crashed cars imported here in that field he does amazing jobs.
Just, he does not have particular experience in classic cars, and his only experience with GRP is little work on my Lotus elise, he did well, but it was very small.
I m sure he would do its best, and exept the problem to bring the car here, we talk about probably a labour cost easily half the cost of west europe. as u probably know, some body shop in Poland nowadays get specialised in classic cars jobs for western clients, so...why not to start in lithuania
so the question is, so you think that a "modern" car body repaired like him, if he has the interest and take the time to do it, can do the job perfectly?
-more praticle questions...the chassis.
Here, i read mostly that a new chassis is a better option. about that, were is it available? David Gerald or somewhere else? and what is +/- the cost?
it seems some other people seems to think that almost "any" tubular chassis can be renovated, and a new one, becomes only interesting option is the labour cost to fix the old ones is too high.
so about that, i m bit lost, and i guess that anyway to see the naked chassis is needed to now exactly, but all opinions are welcome.
-body on chassis. the system to put back body on the chassis should be the one used on the Vixens, right? Can i just jave a look at a Vixen to see how it is exactly, or is ligthly different and so would somebody would have pics of the mouting on a grantura chassis?
-as written i plan to put back an original bonnet. is it a simple swap? are the mounts exactly the same than the ones used with current vixen bonnet?
thanks for reading, all experiences and opinions welcome, i think it is after summer the work should start...
here is the car
need some opinions...
I own my Grantura since about 10 years, it is the ex NPE 15D, so it had a cool history, being an ex demo car, used in few magazine in the 60's.
Before i bought it, the car had been stored during more than 10 years. somehow the chassis was rusty but not dead, the car was drivable, body looked not too bad, so a very very deep clean, an engine rebuilt, and brake/suspension check, is what was done, and i drive like that since that.
For 4 years, i work in Lithuania, and the car is in Belgium, but is still driven everytime i m back (despite the fact i since added a Griffith 500 in the garage...
, in fact the last 2 years it did 1500 miles, and mecanically always had what it needed to be in order, in fact it is still drive really well.But...the chassis is now really bad, so it is time to think about a full restoration, as i would not lile to drive it really a lot with the chassis as it is now.
I plan to keep the car, so i would really like to make a good work on it, including to get back to an original bonnet as it has a Vixen one puted before i owned it.
I know restoration is costly compare to the value in the car, but even i dont have unlimited budget, i m also not in hurry, so if with a bit of cost control, and if monney is planned to be spent in few steps it is no big problem.
so...i have few questions.
-I have few options of people i know very well and who are interested to do it.
One is the one who did all mecanical work on the car since i have it, he know it well, he is professional, restore MG, Triumph...often, so probably can do it ok. He agree to take the car and to do it in his more "quiet time" and if no deadline to finish it, he can make good deal, still of course not cheap it will be, it is in Belgium, so it is easy plan.
other option, is "personaly" cool, as it is my GF's father, but it is...in lithuania. he is body repairer, and to be body repairer in Lithuania like in most eastern countries, means everyday to make look like new, west european crashed cars imported here
in that field he does amazing jobs.Just, he does not have particular experience in classic cars, and his only experience with GRP is little work on my Lotus elise, he did well, but it was very small.
I m sure he would do its best, and exept the problem to bring the car here, we talk about probably a labour cost easily half the cost of west europe. as u probably know, some body shop in Poland nowadays get specialised in classic cars jobs for western clients, so...why not to start in lithuania
so the question is, so you think that a "modern" car body repaired like him, if he has the interest and take the time to do it, can do the job perfectly?
-more praticle questions...the chassis.
Here, i read mostly that a new chassis is a better option. about that, were is it available? David Gerald or somewhere else? and what is +/- the cost?
it seems some other people seems to think that almost "any" tubular chassis can be renovated, and a new one, becomes only interesting option is the labour cost to fix the old ones is too high.
so about that, i m bit lost, and i guess that anyway to see the naked chassis is needed to now exactly, but all opinions are welcome.
-body on chassis. the system to put back body on the chassis should be the one used on the Vixens, right? Can i just jave a look at a Vixen to see how it is exactly, or is ligthly different and so would somebody would have pics of the mouting on a grantura chassis?
-as written i plan to put back an original bonnet. is it a simple swap? are the mounts exactly the same than the ones used with current vixen bonnet?
thanks for reading, all experiences and opinions welcome, i think it is after summer the work should start...
here is the car
Edited by dmax on Saturday 9th May 13:19
Edited by dmax on Saturday 9th May 13:20
Edited by dmax on Saturday 9th May 13:23
Edited by dmax on Saturday 9th May 13:24
I'm very surprised no one has commented yet! Looks like a great car. Is is it a Grantura Mk IV?
To get the discussion started I believe the body is bonded to the chassis via part of the fibreglass floor / sill. This will need to be cut/ground away to seperate the two. I think it is possible to modify the body so that it becomes the bolt down style similar to the Vixen S2 onwards. Other than that I can't see it being difficult to re-instate the original bonnet as part of the restoration.
James
To get the discussion started I believe the body is bonded to the chassis via part of the fibreglass floor / sill. This will need to be cut/ground away to seperate the two. I think it is possible to modify the body so that it becomes the bolt down style similar to the Vixen S2 onwards. Other than that I can't see it being difficult to re-instate the original bonnet as part of the restoration.
James
Edited by Seabass on Sunday 10th May 11:11
chassis available at griffithyears.
I think it's difficult to answer because none of us can ascertain your future father in-law's skills.
In the end, a specialist will probably be more efficient in his/her use of time(=money).
Yes, as far as I know, the hoods will interchange.
Good luck,
B.
Edited by Slow M on Monday 11th May 03:49
A brand new chassis will cost of the order of £2500 and are available in UK from a number of sources.
It is futile to restore a car using an old chassis unless the chassis is comprehensively re-jigged since welding in new tubes can and often does distort the chassis resulting in twist.
Original chassis were brazed so original chassis repairs need to be brazed or all traces of braze removed from the joint. Grantura chassis often rot in difficult to repair areas such as the diff mounts etc.
To remove the chassis from the body, the best way is to turn the car onto its back or side. The flat floor section can be carefully cut away with an angle grinder and cut off disc leaving the bottom of the chassis exposed. The body can then be peeled away and all the fibreglass channels made good. Mounts can then be added to the chassis to allow bolting on.
The work is labour intensive rather than difficult.
There are now a number of people who can supply all the parts you need to do the job in the UK
Everything which was bespoke to the Grantura including Diff cases, suspension uprights wishbones etc are available standard and modified to go as fast as you can afford.
Neil.
It is futile to restore a car using an old chassis unless the chassis is comprehensively re-jigged since welding in new tubes can and often does distort the chassis resulting in twist.
Original chassis were brazed so original chassis repairs need to be brazed or all traces of braze removed from the joint. Grantura chassis often rot in difficult to repair areas such as the diff mounts etc.
To remove the chassis from the body, the best way is to turn the car onto its back or side. The flat floor section can be carefully cut away with an angle grinder and cut off disc leaving the bottom of the chassis exposed. The body can then be peeled away and all the fibreglass channels made good. Mounts can then be added to the chassis to allow bolting on.
The work is labour intensive rather than difficult.
There are now a number of people who can supply all the parts you need to do the job in the UK
Everything which was bespoke to the Grantura including Diff cases, suspension uprights wishbones etc are available standard and modified to go as fast as you can afford.
Neil.
thegamekeeper said:
That car used to be mine but its not a Grantura, its an 1800S.
yes i know it comes from you.I bought it to the guy who bought from you, but who finnally had started other project and never really started to care about that car.
isn't usually refered as Grantura MKIV 1800s and so to say Grantura is not really a mistake or is it?
heightswitch said:
A brand new chassis will cost of the order of £2500 and are available in UK from a number of sources.
It is futile to restore a car using an old chassis unless the chassis is comprehensively re-jigged since welding in new tubes can and often does distort the chassis resulting in twist.
Original chassis were brazed so original chassis repairs need to be brazed or all traces of braze removed from the joint. Grantura chassis often rot in difficult to repair areas such as the diff mounts etc.
To remove the chassis from the body, the best way is to turn the car onto its back or side. The flat floor section can be carefully cut away with an angle grinder and cut off disc leaving the bottom of the chassis exposed. The body can then be peeled away and all the fibreglass channels made good. Mounts can then be added to the chassis to allow bolting on.
The work is labour intensive rather than difficult.
There are now a number of people who can supply all the parts you need to do the job in the UK
Everything which was bespoke to the Grantura including Diff cases, suspension uprights wishbones etc are available standard and modified to go as fast as you can afford.
Neil.
thanks for all infos.It is futile to restore a car using an old chassis unless the chassis is comprehensively re-jigged since welding in new tubes can and often does distort the chassis resulting in twist.
Original chassis were brazed so original chassis repairs need to be brazed or all traces of braze removed from the joint. Grantura chassis often rot in difficult to repair areas such as the diff mounts etc.
To remove the chassis from the body, the best way is to turn the car onto its back or side. The flat floor section can be carefully cut away with an angle grinder and cut off disc leaving the bottom of the chassis exposed. The body can then be peeled away and all the fibreglass channels made good. Mounts can then be added to the chassis to allow bolting on.
The work is labour intensive rather than difficult.
There are now a number of people who can supply all the parts you need to do the job in the UK
Everything which was bespoke to the Grantura including Diff cases, suspension uprights wishbones etc are available standard and modified to go as fast as you can afford.
Neil.
may you point me the "different sources" where i could get an exact quote for a chassis? as it seems a new chassis is the best solution.
I think there is no chance to buy a new chassis. Who should offer a chassis (in stock) with only about 100 cars left? As far as I know usually in a restoration the chassis is rebuildt and broken or rotten parts are changed.
However, maybe anyone has a new old stock chassis or a rebuild in his garage...
However, maybe anyone has a new old stock chassis or a rebuild in his garage...
newbridge said:
Hi Guys can anyone give me contact details where I can buy a new Grantura 2a chassis
Thanks
I know you needed one a long time ago, but
I have made a new MkII chassis this month. I am asking 2000 € depending on variations. If you still need one, contact me or have a look at my website.
www.tvr-grantura.de
Hi Guys can anyone give me contact details where I can buy a new Grantura 2a chassis
Thanks
I know you needed one a long time ago, but
I have made a new MkII chassis this month. I am asking 2000 € depending on variations. If you still need one, contact me or have a look at my website.
www.tvr-grantura.de
Edited by Granturas on Monday 18th July 09:51
hi, with regards to your chassis contact kt on ks.ticer@tiscali . co.uk. he makes the chassis's for nigel and they are a lot cheaper than 2500. he can also make you a new body if so required. is your belgium contact mark from dienze, if so he makes them for him also. hope this may be helpfull
"mark from dienze" who is mentioned should be Mark Minne from TVR Belgium under http://www.tvr-belgium.be/.
Slow M said:
That depends on you objective/compromise. Are you more interested in utimate strength, weight, originality, safety...?
B.
As it is the Chassis, and it will probably be bonded back into the body, I don´t care about originality. But it would be interesting to know what kind of steel you would take for originality or strength or safety. B.
btw, here it is:
the left outrigger is the worst looking part of the Chassis:
As the rest seems to be quite sound, the ouriggers are the only parts that have to be replaced, just like on any modern TVR
alfa-chris said:
Slow M said:
That depends on you objective/compromise. Are you more interested in utimate strength, weight, originality, safety...?
B.
As it is the Chassis, and it will probably be bonded back into the body, I don´t care about originality. But it would be interesting to know what kind of steel you would take for originality or strength or safety. B.
btw, here it is:
the left outrigger is the worst looking part of the Chassis:
As the rest seems to be quite sound, the ouriggers are the only parts that have to be replaced, just like on any modern TVR
If you're going to bung a V8 in that chassis and go racing on soft rubber with stiff supension then there is probably a mental disconnect anyway... and a bit of thin tube in a critical area is not the biggest threat to your existence.
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