Getting frustrated now
Discussion
Anyone know if i have been sold the wrong plugs? The wedge still is having major problems starting. I have just put Bosch WR7DC plugs in and the cross reference to NGK is BPR6ES. Im told off you lads that i need NGK B7ECS and that crosses to Bosch W5CC, will this cause the starting problems ??????? HELP ME PLEASE.
Regards Dix
Regards Dix
dixiebabes said:
Ill get the plugs changed ian if that dont do the trick i would appreciate it ian
Regards Dix,
Too much petrol in it rinkie lad Howay then who are ye?????
It won't be the plugs, Rover V8s aren't that fussy. I'd have nipped over tonight but your neighbours probably won't appreciate it now Regards Dix,
Too much petrol in it rinkie lad Howay then who are ye?????
Edited by dixiebabes on Sunday 10th May 20:42
dixiebabes said:
Its only happened sine i changed the plugs cap and arm iv put the old cap and arm back on so i dunno ian,sick of swapping ignition bits. Its defiently not fuel cause it floods most of the time trying to start it.
Regards Dix
Drop me a PM with a number and I'll give you a call later, see if I can get across tonight.Regards Dix
Edited by dixiebabes on Sunday 10th May 21:13
Regards Ian
Coolant temperature sensor was flooding my engine. Perhaps an alternative you can look into. Standard land rover part and not too difficult to change. TEST: Shorting the lead to this sensor can be a quick check it, as when it will run you need to replace it. The ECU will think the engine is hot, but even when cold it will probably start without too much difficulty.
Another simple test: Coldstart injector on the plenum disconnected could be another easy one as just disconnect the electric connector triggering it.
Rob
Another simple test: Coldstart injector on the plenum disconnected could be another easy one as just disconnect the electric connector triggering it.
Rob
Hi mate.
Don't know if it's been suggested yet, but have a check of all the big earth wires around the engine.
Also, not sure if it works the same on the V8, but on my 280 the fusebox was pretty ropey, and that also led to bad starting or complete non-starting (dirty connections).
ECU connections could also be dodgy ?
Maybe even ignition switch.
Don't know if it's been suggested yet, but have a check of all the big earth wires around the engine.
Also, not sure if it works the same on the V8, but on my 280 the fusebox was pretty ropey, and that also led to bad starting or complete non-starting (dirty connections).
ECU connections could also be dodgy ?
Maybe even ignition switch.
Its not clear to me why the obsession with plugs, when the question should be "do you have any sparks?"
I've read this thread thro three times and its not been clearly verified.
First of all, is your ignition circuit ok, something like this typical SD1 Efi Ignition System:
It represents BOTH the system where the amplifier is mounted behind the coil AND where it is mounted on the side of the dizzy. The effective electrics are the same, just the physical locations of components differ.
You need to be sure your car wiring from the ignition switch, through to the coil, dizzy and amplifier module is pretty much the same.
Now back to basics:
o Remove the king lead from the distributor, connect it to a spark plug and lay the plug on the engine somewhere.
o Switch on the ignition and use your multimeter to verify there are 12 volts at coil positive.
o If No - find out why by checking further back in the circuit between coil positive and the ignition switch and beyond to the battery.
o If Yes - crank the engine.
o Is there a spark at the spark plug.
o If Yes - then the problems are downstream at the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads or plugs, so that is where to look - choose your suspects and fix.
o If No - change the king lead and - If still No - then the problems are upstream at the coil, amplifier, distributor or its innards.
o Next, with ignition on, take a jump lead and briefly touch coil negative to earth. Watch for a spark at the spark plug.
o If No - Then the coil is faulty. Change it for a known good 12 volt unit.
o If Yes - Then the problem is with the amplifier, dizzy or its innards.
o I'd like to tell you that I have a method to test the amplifier, but I'm afraid its still in gestation, so for now assume the amplifier is faulty and swap it with a known good unit (Someone else might come up with the test process for the amplifier in the interim).
o If that does not solve the problem then the Dizzy Reluctor/Pick-up Coil or its other innards are not working and they have to be changed for a known good dizzy or innards.
See how far that takes you.
I've read this thread thro three times and its not been clearly verified.
First of all, is your ignition circuit ok, something like this typical SD1 Efi Ignition System:
It represents BOTH the system where the amplifier is mounted behind the coil AND where it is mounted on the side of the dizzy. The effective electrics are the same, just the physical locations of components differ.
You need to be sure your car wiring from the ignition switch, through to the coil, dizzy and amplifier module is pretty much the same.
Now back to basics:
o Remove the king lead from the distributor, connect it to a spark plug and lay the plug on the engine somewhere.
o Switch on the ignition and use your multimeter to verify there are 12 volts at coil positive.
o If No - find out why by checking further back in the circuit between coil positive and the ignition switch and beyond to the battery.
o If Yes - crank the engine.
o Is there a spark at the spark plug.
o If Yes - then the problems are downstream at the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads or plugs, so that is where to look - choose your suspects and fix.
o If No - change the king lead and - If still No - then the problems are upstream at the coil, amplifier, distributor or its innards.
o Next, with ignition on, take a jump lead and briefly touch coil negative to earth. Watch for a spark at the spark plug.
o If No - Then the coil is faulty. Change it for a known good 12 volt unit.
o If Yes - Then the problem is with the amplifier, dizzy or its innards.
o I'd like to tell you that I have a method to test the amplifier, but I'm afraid its still in gestation, so for now assume the amplifier is faulty and swap it with a known good unit (Someone else might come up with the test process for the amplifier in the interim).
o If that does not solve the problem then the Dizzy Reluctor/Pick-up Coil or its other innards are not working and they have to be changed for a known good dizzy or innards.
See how far that takes you.
dixiebabes said:
Its only happened sine i changed the plugs cap and arm iv put the old cap and arm back on so i dunno ian,sick of swapping ignition bits. Its defiently not fuel cause it floods most of the time trying to start it.
Flooding may indicate gross over-fuelling so if it turns out that you DO have sparks that will be the next issue to investigate.You might also try a comprehensive health check. Stuf here is pretty simple to perform.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
Then its down to component testing, Temp Sensor, Fuel pressure regulator, throt pot, AFM, faulty injectors and ECU can all cause over fuelling.
Everything you need to read is here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
Right here goes the earth on the dizzy heat shield was loose nipped it up and its firing ok now fingers crossed. It only floods if i stamp on the throttle when turning so overfueling is ruled out, was just stating it cant be a fuel problem due to the flooding when throttle pressed. Tried all the plugs, ie spare plug on each lead etc and good spark from every one runs excellent when it eventually starts so coil, dizzy, ecu, and fuel problems ruled out it just seemed when i was trying to start it the starter was spinning over faster than usual and it was not wanting to fire. Thanks for all the help guys by the way. Heres hoping it dosnt play up again.
Please be ok now or else yer getting sold.
Regards Dix
Please be ok now or else yer getting sold.
Regards Dix
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff