AJP Head bolts
Discussion
Apparently you need the 16mm spigot version of these "torque handles":
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://ww...
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://ww...
Not sure what torque range spanner size you need but Fanell seem to do them. http://uk.farnell.com/norbar/13019/torque-wrench-1...
they wont work, the araea to get into is VERY tight. even the 1st torque wrench suggested only just fits and the amount of movement available while the wrench is on the bolt is tiny roughly 5 degrees or something.
however the 1 st torque wrench does fit and torque down the head bolts 100% guaranteed. as its the one i have borrowed.
however the 1 st torque wrench does fit and torque down the head bolts 100% guaranteed. as its the one i have borrowed.
Jon, I've got the wrench and end fittings you need. PlumAJP has them at the moment, but I'm guessing he's finished with them now - you're welcome to borrow them too if you like. It's basically a Norbar torque handle with 12mm and 15mm ring ends.
Julian, undoing the bolts isn't the hard part - you can use any spanner for that - but you try torquing them back up properly with a normal wrench and socket!
Julian, undoing the bolts isn't the hard part - you can use any spanner for that - but you try torquing them back up properly with a normal wrench and socket!
Edited by longbow on Monday 18th May 09:23
Longbow you have mail.
And yes, getting them out is pretty easy with a normal spanner, I say pretty easy as it's still 1/4 turn at a time and a long pipe to crack them. The bottom end of project turbo an AJP is now complete with a RaceProved lightweight flywheel and paddle clutch bolted up but I stripped down the slave cylinder of my second hand box and the seals were stuffed, swelled to about double their original length. I don't know what TVR made those seals out of but I hope durex never start using the same stuff, it would be like a leg warmer after 6 months in the wrapper. Luckily the bore and piston are like new so It's just a £25 seal kit not another £300 slave assembly.
The oil/water pump assembly is a pain to overhaul, even after you take all the bolts and ciclips out it just sits looking at you, you can fair hear it say "OK, what you gonna do with me now". And now I know why all the cap head bolts holding it together are the same except for one... Grrrr.
Jon
And yes, getting them out is pretty easy with a normal spanner, I say pretty easy as it's still 1/4 turn at a time and a long pipe to crack them. The bottom end of project turbo an AJP is now complete with a RaceProved lightweight flywheel and paddle clutch bolted up but I stripped down the slave cylinder of my second hand box and the seals were stuffed, swelled to about double their original length. I don't know what TVR made those seals out of but I hope durex never start using the same stuff, it would be like a leg warmer after 6 months in the wrapper. Luckily the bore and piston are like new so It's just a £25 seal kit not another £300 slave assembly.
The oil/water pump assembly is a pain to overhaul, even after you take all the bolts and ciclips out it just sits looking at you, you can fair hear it say "OK, what you gonna do with me now". And now I know why all the cap head bolts holding it together are the same except for one... Grrrr.
Jon
if anyones interested, I made this up to tighten up the head bolts, just a 16mm socket, cut in half, and each half welded to a stainless steel plate, this allows the torque wrench to fit in to tighten up the bolts, if anyone wants one just send me a socket, or I can make one for the price of a socket plus postage. .
julian64 said:
Chrome vanadium to mild steel. Cool. Looks like a TIG weld. What amps was the tig welder pulling to melt that?
its actually Chrome vanadium to stainless 316, a slightly better match of dissimilar metals, tig welded, probably around 170 to 190amps, nothing special, my tig set goes up to 475amps
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