Oil - should i be worried? 3.5 litres in 600 miles...
Oil - should i be worried? 3.5 litres in 600 miles...
Author
Discussion

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
This, to me sounds high?

Very sooty exhausts too, its not leaking oil either.

I have been using silkolene pro 5w 40 to top up...

Have contacted the dealer and awaiting a response, im a bit worried! what are my rights on this, should it turn out to be engine consumption and therefore a significant problem??

Bought the car only three weeks ago have done 700ish miles...

Edited by Robertjp on Monday 18th May 17:01

D14 AYS

3,696 posts

239 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Hi Rob,

Sounds a bit excessive mate, oil consumption is on average 1 litre per 1000 miles worst ways, you are checking the oil hot I take it ? The engine is a fresh re-build isn't it ? You need to speak to the dealer lively mate.

Good luck.

aquatix

1,587 posts

219 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
That is a ridiculous amount of oil to use / lose, and needs rectifying urgently.

I would expect a fair amount of blue smoke if the engine was burning over 0.5 litres per 100 miles. Is there no evidence of a leak under the car, with oil on chassis rails around gearbox etc ? Mine had a leaking pressure sender which left lots of evidence but didn't use anything like that amount.

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Yeah checking hot, was 70 degrees today when i checked, just topped her up again but have contacted the dealer although not sure where will go from here. I guess they will tell me to keep an eye of next few hundred?

No evidence of oil leakage.

Engine rebuilt at racing green 4100 miles ago, top end replaced (followers and cams) and crank bearings...engine has now done 31400.

The only chance i have of being wrong, and i hope i am, is that the dealer had not topped up fully with oil after servicing. Because, i checked it having done 400 miles after buying it, it was on minimum, so i have topped up twice now and as i say - so i have used have used 3.5 litres in topping up, it may not have been topped to the top by the dealer which is maybe making me think the worst...

How much oil is max to min?

aquatix

1,587 posts

219 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
I would guess about a litre between marks but it is safe to go a bit over.

Its not the most accurate of dipsticks, but provided you measure on level ground, hot engine, as soon as possible after switching off, it should be an accurate enough measurement of any loss.

Is it still under warranty ?

GreenV8S

31,014 posts

313 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Oil consumption that high is definitely a problem, and possibly a fundamental one that could cost a lot of money to retify. But make sure you're measuring the oil level and topping up correctly before you go off the deep end. It may be that you're overfilling it.

If it does turn out to be an engine fault, it's reasonable to assume it's a pre-existing condition and therefore the dealer is liable for the repairs.

asrovak

397 posts

214 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Hmmm, my TVR mech said check the oil when warm - not when hot. Are you overfilling and the surplus is escaping through normal routes?

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Ok, definitely checking and topping up on level ground. First time i checked was at 65 degrees, second time (today) was 70 degrees. I would say thats hot, yes, but not excessively to give innacurate readings? Im definitely only filling to max, not above.

I guess best case scenario is that the engine was on or just above min when i took it from dealer, which, means it was a litre under minimum when i topped up for first time. Even then, im still talking about 3.5 litres per 1000 miles - which is still too high isnt it...

Worst case is engine fooked, passing oil past rings or oil getting into water?

Should the worst case be true (i cant believe im saying this...)- that it needs a rebuild - i bought from a dealer 3 weeks ago - surely i can expect them to fund it? isnt there some law preventing dealers selling defective cars?

Just off to check coolant colour...





Edited by Robertjp on Tuesday 19th May 21:20

aquatix

1,587 posts

219 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
asrovak said:
Hmmm, my TVR mech said check the oil when warm - not when hot.
The actual temperature is less important than measuring before the oil drains back into the engine. You would have to seriously over fill the Tuscans dry sump system before it 'got out' anywhere.

To the OP, what pressures are showing when cold / hot, idling / revving ?

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Coolant colour and 'feel' normal - doesnt feel like any oil in it at all.

Pressures - 9-14 warm idle, 45ish medium revs - say 4000, not sure at high revs / accel im normally watching road wink

Edited by Robertjp on Monday 18th May 19:27

Daston

6,148 posts

232 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
my usage seems compleatly random. Sometimes it uses hardly any other times it will go through 0.5 ltrs in a run.

Chewitt

1,041 posts

266 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
according to my service man 10/60 is the oil to use......maybe the relative thin-ness of the oil is a contributory factor?

aquatix

1,587 posts

219 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Who advised that ? Seems a bit heavy to me. Might look good on the pressure guage but flow rate is more important - especially on a cold engine.

Mobil 1 is 5w/30 and Silkolene Pro R is possibly better. Even a 'thinner' oil would need some serious wear to get used at that rate.

Tamster.

534 posts

239 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Robertjp said:
Coolant colour and 'feel' normal - doesnt feel like any oil in it at all.

Pressures - 9-14 warm idle, 45ish medium revs - say 4000, not sure at high revs / accel im normally watching road wink

Edited by Robertjp on Monday 18th May 19:27
One of mine did this after a rebuild, i checked the oil the next day after picking it up and could'nt get a reading on the dipstick hot or cold, went back to the main dealer who assumed i was checking it wrong, they then had to put 3 litres of oil in to see it on the dipstick, usual consumption averages out at about 250 ml per 1k miles, would'nt worry too much myself if i were you, check it when hot and cold, if its half the way up the dipstick when cold it will be on max when hot.

Chewitt

1,041 posts

266 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
the 10W and 5 w are tested at −30°C and −25 °C respectively. The reality is at even 0C the actual flow difference is negligible. The 60 is the viscosity of the oil at 100 °C.

used the same oil in my old 964, Z3M, mate uses it in his VHPD 340R and his old S2. Mobil 1 was at 0/30 too thin.

Maybe opieoil man would be one to ask as I am only really a Physicist.

if the service was not done at a specialist then they would be v.likely to cock up any topping up - how many folk on here do and they own one!

tuscan_al

4,112 posts

243 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Was it asked if the OP has switched the engine off once hot then checking it, ie engine not running but hot?

jimbo65

752 posts

227 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
Yes

tuscan_al

4,112 posts

243 months

Monday 18th May 2009
quotequote all
jimbo65 said:
Yes
Ok,
well in that case it does seem high. I know Dom at power uses a different grade oil for the first 1k on running in, then goes to a good synthetic.

Jeff J

153 posts

214 months

Tuesday 19th May 2009
quotequote all
Hi, yes I'm not surprised about the quantity of oil the engines burning,if this engine's a new re-build, you should be using mineral oil for the first 1000 miles to allow the piston rings to cylinder bores time to bed in.Then replace the oil and filter for semi synthetic then fully synthetic.

aquatix

1,587 posts

219 months

Tuesday 19th May 2009
quotequote all
Yes, mineral oil for first 1k then synthetic. The Silkolene is an excellent choice at current mileage. There is a lot more to it than viscosity, but Guy at Opie is the man to explain about esters, film strength, basestock and molecular 'stiction'.

Providing you measue the same way each time, you can accurately measure any loss. Unless it was seriously low when you picked it up (which alone is cause for concern) then you need to keep a close eye on it and keep in touch with your dealer.