changing brake pads
Discussion
hi guys
just bought a 2006 mazda6 sport 1.8
grand car..noticed the pads front and rear are almost wore.
just want to know how to change these pads as i can source the parts fairly cheap and have time on my hands to do it.
have being told to take of tyre, loosen the bleed nut/screw at rear of caliper and then using a pry bar force the piston back, releasing the pads for new ones to be put on. tighten the bleed nut, press brake pedal and finally top up brake fluid.
(did i miss any thing???)
pritty sure i can manage this as i changed discs and pads before on my older 96 mazda323f but never loosend bleed nut.and she went fine
the only thing that got me worried is that if i dont loosen bleed nut, i can almost defenitly distroy the master clyinder. and this is the first proper fresh car i ever owned.
mazda 6 also needs new tyres bridgestone are on it, whats the best around for about 80.00euro
thanks lads
just bought a 2006 mazda6 sport 1.8
grand car..noticed the pads front and rear are almost wore.
just want to know how to change these pads as i can source the parts fairly cheap and have time on my hands to do it.
have being told to take of tyre, loosen the bleed nut/screw at rear of caliper and then using a pry bar force the piston back, releasing the pads for new ones to be put on. tighten the bleed nut, press brake pedal and finally top up brake fluid.
(did i miss any thing???)
pritty sure i can manage this as i changed discs and pads before on my older 96 mazda323f but never loosend bleed nut.and she went fine
the only thing that got me worried is that if i dont loosen bleed nut, i can almost defenitly distroy the master clyinder. and this is the first proper fresh car i ever owned.
mazda 6 also needs new tyres bridgestone are on it, whats the best around for about 80.00euro
thanks lads
Spelling and grammar aside....
I have never changed pads on a Mazda, but I cannot imagine it is worlds apart from any other brake... It should be a doddle and very straight forward. You definitely shouldn't have to open the bleed screw, brakes are designed to adjust for changes in the thickness of disks and pads as they wear. Therefore when it comes to fitting new ones you will have to force the piston back into the calliper (they can sometimes be very stiff, so perseverance could be needed) but it will go in the end.
If you are in any doubt, get yourself a Haynes Manual, that'll guide you through.
I have never changed pads on a Mazda, but I cannot imagine it is worlds apart from any other brake... It should be a doddle and very straight forward. You definitely shouldn't have to open the bleed screw, brakes are designed to adjust for changes in the thickness of disks and pads as they wear. Therefore when it comes to fitting new ones you will have to force the piston back into the calliper (they can sometimes be very stiff, so perseverance could be needed) but it will go in the end.
If you are in any doubt, get yourself a Haynes Manual, that'll guide you through.
It will push fluid back into the reservoir. As long as you haven't kept topping up the reservoir as the pads wore down, this will be fine. Just remember to seat the pads on each corner by pumping the pedal until they come firm, before you start the next wheel. This saves you overflowing the reservoir and also avoids any nasty 'no brakes' moments on the test drive. You're advised to clean and regrease the callipers and bleed the brakes while you're there, in which case this will be taken care of.
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