Discussion
Right, forgive my ignorance here because I'm the sort of cyclist who just rides the bike and takes it into the shop if it needs something doing so I'm not very mechanically minded.
I had an accident recently and I thought I'd drop the bike into the shop to get it checked out. I've been told there was no accident damage but that it needs a lot of parts replacing.
As I've only had the bike 6 months and done around 1000-1500 miles on it I'm a bit surprised. It's a Specialised Allez Sport road bike and I'm told the following needs doing:
Block and Chain replaced
Chain Ring
Brake cables
Brake pads
Both hubs serviced
Total cost £240
Does this sound right? Not even my TVR costs £240 in servicing every 1000\1500 miles.
I had an accident recently and I thought I'd drop the bike into the shop to get it checked out. I've been told there was no accident damage but that it needs a lot of parts replacing.
As I've only had the bike 6 months and done around 1000-1500 miles on it I'm a bit surprised. It's a Specialised Allez Sport road bike and I'm told the following needs doing:
Block and Chain replaced
Chain Ring
Brake cables
Brake pads
Both hubs serviced
Total cost £240
Does this sound right? Not even my TVR costs £240 in servicing every 1000\1500 miles.
mouseymousey said:
Block and Chain replaced
Chain Ring
Brake cables
Brake pads
Both hubs serviced
Total cost £240
Does this sound right? Not even my TVR costs £240 in servicing every 1000\1500 miles.
1 - at this point only if the chain is slipping, otherwise leave it until it does. In future buy a chain wear tool and replace the chain when wornChain Ring
Brake cables
Brake pads
Both hubs serviced
Total cost £240
Does this sound right? Not even my TVR costs £240 in servicing every 1000\1500 miles.
2 - Middle ring? b
ks, leave it3 - Only if they're frayed at the ends. If they feel rough simply remove the inner cable from the outer, and clean both up.
4 - £5 for new ones from the shop, easy to do yourself
5 - Shouldn't be more than a tenner per wheel unless new parts are required.
AbarthChris said:
Thats ridiculously expensive!
Chain and cassette - £50
Chainring - £20
Pads - £10
Hub service... dunno
Say £60 for a service
and your hubs should not need servicing after 1500 miles!
Thanks, they were quoting £50 per hub for the servicing. Chain and cassette - £50
Chainring - £20
Pads - £10
Hub service... dunno
Say £60 for a service
and your hubs should not need servicing after 1500 miles!
I'm thinking of telling them to not bother.
Thanks everyone.
The chain is not slipping so I'll leave that.
I'm pretty sure the cables got damaged during the accident. All I really know is that the brakes were fine before the incident and then afterwards the brakes wouldn't release and the cables were slack.
As for the hubs, well I hadn't noticed any issues with them and I'm surprised they need a service so soon so I'll be leaving them for now as well.
The chain is not slipping so I'll leave that.
I'm pretty sure the cables got damaged during the accident. All I really know is that the brakes were fine before the incident and then afterwards the brakes wouldn't release and the cables were slack.
As for the hubs, well I hadn't noticed any issues with them and I'm surprised they need a service so soon so I'll be leaving them for now as well.
mouseymousey said:
Thanks everyone.
The chain is not slipping so I'll leave that.
Get one of these:The chain is not slipping so I'll leave that.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
It'll tell you when the chain needs replacing - cheaper in the long run than new rear cassettes.
mouseymousey said:
I'm pretty sure the cables got damaged during the accident. All I really know is that the brakes were fine before the incident and then afterwards the brakes wouldn't release and the cables were slack.
Probably a pinched or bent cable somewhere. To do this really you need the tools to cut the cables, and they're a bit pricey for a one-off job. Best to try another LBS to do this.mouseymousey said:
As for the hubs, well I hadn't noticed any issues with them and I'm surprised they need a service so soon so I'll be leaving them for now as well.
Check for play on each wheel with the wheels still in the frame - try rocking them at a right angle to their usual rotation. If their is lateral movement, they want sorting. Also, with the wheels out of the frame, rotate them in your fingers - if the hubs feel rough or knobbly, they want sorting. Luckily with cone spanners you can do this job yourself, it isn't difficult.mouseymousey said:
AbarthChris said:
Thats ridiculously expensive!
Chain and cassette - £50
Chainring - £20
Pads - £10
Hub service... dunno
Say £60 for a service
and your hubs should not need servicing after 1500 miles!
Thanks, they were quoting £50 per hub for the servicing. Chain and cassette - £50
Chainring - £20
Pads - £10
Hub service... dunno
Say £60 for a service
and your hubs should not need servicing after 1500 miles!
I'm thinking of telling them to not bother.
JM16v said:
Our version of 'wear and tear' is way different to a bike shops. They see a gold mine. I say its good until it snaps or shifting really is impaired. As for brake blocks, you can check yourself and easily replace.
Especially now they are riding the crunch and the explosion of commuters that it has caused. Making all sorts of recommendations and cashing in on peoples fears.Out of all those items, maybe get the cables changed if they indeed are binding or not working as advertised. The rest of it is as described above by previous posters.
Brake pads are another thing worth looking at. Are the grooves worn away on them?
As mchammer says - learn to do your own servicing. At the very least, a properly cleaned and lubricated chain will last a long time whereas a dirty gritty chain will soon destroy chainrings / gear clusters. Many chains now (Sram etc) come with a quick release link to allow you to remove the chain without tools to allow it and the rest of the drivechain to get a really thorough clean every so often. Invest in some decent quality chain lubricant and use it often - i use Finish Line Krytech Wax Lube in the summer which seems to stay very clean - doesnt seem to cling to the dust / grit.
As for now - well give your bike a thorough clean and then have a look for hooking of the gear teeth. If the gears dont skip and there's no obvious damage then i'd stick with the drivechain as is for now. As for the hubs - well it depends on what they are but many are very easy to clean and regrease / adjust if required yourself so worth saying what they are - guess Shimano? Brake pads should also be very easy to change yourself. Cables are also a fairly easy change and even setting up indexed gears is easy once you have done it a couple of times (following the manufacturers instructions which you'll find online no doubt).
Well worth learning to do your own maintainance anyway as you'll save a fortune long term. This along with PROPER cleaning is the key
As for now - well give your bike a thorough clean and then have a look for hooking of the gear teeth. If the gears dont skip and there's no obvious damage then i'd stick with the drivechain as is for now. As for the hubs - well it depends on what they are but many are very easy to clean and regrease / adjust if required yourself so worth saying what they are - guess Shimano? Brake pads should also be very easy to change yourself. Cables are also a fairly easy change and even setting up indexed gears is easy once you have done it a couple of times (following the manufacturers instructions which you'll find online no doubt).
Well worth learning to do your own maintainance anyway as you'll save a fortune long term. This along with PROPER cleaning is the key
Edited by Paul1972 on Thursday 21st May 22:21
I do this stuff to pay the bills, so heres my opinion.
Yes, £240 does sound expensive.
It sounds like most of that is coming from the hub service.
Its very possible that they DO need a service after 1500miles - the stock hubs wont be great.
However - its not a £50 job, more like £15.
As for chain and cassette wear - yes, again, it could be worn. If they are a reputable shop then this is based upon a reading from a chain wear tool - this takes away the 'personal opinion' side of things and gives a straight worn / not worn answer.
There are two readings - one is a .75% wear mark - this means you need a new chain. The second is 1% wear mark - this is when you need a new chain and block. They should show you this when you drop the bike off.
You can buy this tool for a tenner. Change your chain more often!
Cables are probably fine. frayed ends dont make a differenc to the braking, just make it hard to adjust them.
Chain ring - this surprises me. They should last a lot longer than the cassette (more teeth, wear is spread).
it may be the case that you need to adjust your cadence/riding style - riders who put a lot of torque through the chain wear stuff out much, much quicker. Spinning is faster, more efficient AND cheaper!
Get yourself some tools and go on a maintenance course or get a good book.
Brake pads, adjusting gears etc can be done at home if your at all mechanical.
Without knowing what parts their using, its hard to comment - does the bike use a tiagra, or 105 cassette, for instance? big price difference.
Yes, £240 does sound expensive.
It sounds like most of that is coming from the hub service.
Its very possible that they DO need a service after 1500miles - the stock hubs wont be great.
However - its not a £50 job, more like £15.
As for chain and cassette wear - yes, again, it could be worn. If they are a reputable shop then this is based upon a reading from a chain wear tool - this takes away the 'personal opinion' side of things and gives a straight worn / not worn answer.
There are two readings - one is a .75% wear mark - this means you need a new chain. The second is 1% wear mark - this is when you need a new chain and block. They should show you this when you drop the bike off.
You can buy this tool for a tenner. Change your chain more often!
Cables are probably fine. frayed ends dont make a differenc to the braking, just make it hard to adjust them.
Chain ring - this surprises me. They should last a lot longer than the cassette (more teeth, wear is spread).
it may be the case that you need to adjust your cadence/riding style - riders who put a lot of torque through the chain wear stuff out much, much quicker. Spinning is faster, more efficient AND cheaper!
Get yourself some tools and go on a maintenance course or get a good book.
Brake pads, adjusting gears etc can be done at home if your at all mechanical.
Without knowing what parts their using, its hard to comment - does the bike use a tiagra, or 105 cassette, for instance? big price difference.
Thanks for your reply snotrag, please see my comments below
The first snapped after I'd left the bike sitting for 2 weeks over winter. I thought that it must have been my fault for not maintaining it well so I had it replaced. The replacement lasted 2 rides (2 days) before it snapped so I took it back to the shop to make sure there wasn't something else at fault.
The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to offer help in this thread, it really is appreciated.
snotrag said:
I do this stuff to pay the bills, so heres my opinion.
Yes, £240 does sound expensive.
It sounds like most of that is coming from the hub service.
Its very possible that they DO need a service after 1500miles - the stock hubs wont be great.
However - its not a £50 job, more like £15.
you're right, £100 of the £240 was from the hub service.Yes, £240 does sound expensive.
It sounds like most of that is coming from the hub service.
Its very possible that they DO need a service after 1500miles - the stock hubs wont be great.
However - its not a £50 job, more like £15.
snotrag said:
As for chain and cassette wear - yes, again, it could be worn. If they are a reputable shop then this is based upon a reading from a chain wear tool - this takes away the 'personal opinion' side of things and gives a straight worn / not worn answer.
There are two readings - one is a .75% wear mark - this means you need a new chain. The second is 1% wear mark - this is when you need a new chain and block. They should show you this when you drop the bike off.
You can buy this tool for a tenner. Change your chain more often!
As I've mentioned, the bike is 6 months old but the chain on the bike is the third one I've had. There are two readings - one is a .75% wear mark - this means you need a new chain. The second is 1% wear mark - this is when you need a new chain and block. They should show you this when you drop the bike off.
You can buy this tool for a tenner. Change your chain more often!
The first snapped after I'd left the bike sitting for 2 weeks over winter. I thought that it must have been my fault for not maintaining it well so I had it replaced. The replacement lasted 2 rides (2 days) before it snapped so I took it back to the shop to make sure there wasn't something else at fault.
The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
snotrag said:
Cables are probably fine. frayed ends dont make a differenc to the braking, just make it hard to adjust them.
Cables were fine, but after the accident the brakes weren't working correctly. If I pulled on the brake lever the brakes would engage but they wouldn't disengage when I released the lever. I assume this was because something had gone wrong with the cables?snotrag said:
Chain ring - this surprises me. They should last a lot longer than the cassette (more teeth, wear is spread).
Yep, I was surprised too!snotrag said:
it may be the case that you need to adjust your cadence/riding style - riders who put a lot of torque through the chain wear stuff out much, much quicker. Spinning is faster, more efficient AND cheaper!
by 'much, much quicker' do you think 1500 miles is realistic?snotrag said:
Get yourself some tools and go on a maintenance course or get a good book.
Brake pads, adjusting gears etc can be done at home if your at all mechanical.
You'd think that owning a TVR would make me mechanically minded, but I'm not. I'd like to learn though, if for no other reason than to make sure I'm not ripped off by bike shops! Any recommendations on books?Brake pads, adjusting gears etc can be done at home if your at all mechanical.
snotrag said:
Without knowing what parts their using, its hard to comment - does the bike use a tiagra, or 105 cassette, for instance? big price difference.
No idea I'm afraid, this whole episode has shown what little I know about bikes. Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to offer help in this thread, it really is appreciated.
mouseymousey said:
As I've mentioned, the bike is 6 months old but the chain on the bike is the third one I've had.
The first snapped after I'd left the bike sitting for 2 weeks over winter. I thought that it must have been my fault for not maintaining it well so I had it replaced. The replacement lasted 2 rides (2 days) before it snapped so I took it back to the shop to make sure there wasn't something else at fault.
The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
On the roads 500 miles isn't a lot. The only way you'll tell is with a chain wear indicator. Perhaps you're not keeping the chain adequately lubed? It should always be greasy, and it helps to keep it clean (I always use diesel to clean mine).The first snapped after I'd left the bike sitting for 2 weeks over winter. I thought that it must have been my fault for not maintaining it well so I had it replaced. The replacement lasted 2 rides (2 days) before it snapped so I took it back to the shop to make sure there wasn't something else at fault.
The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
mouseymousey said:
Cables were fine, but after the accident the brakes weren't working correctly. If I pulled on the brake lever the brakes would engage but they wouldn't disengage when I released the lever. I assume this was because something had gone wrong with the cables?
If they're cable brakes, the cable outer will be damaged. If V-brakes, I'd take a close look at the little chromed metal tube that you use to join each caliper to the other - with age the inner teflon tube gets buggered up. Cheap to replace.mouseymousey said:
As I've mentioned, the bike is 6 months old but the chain on the bike is the third one I've had.
The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
Cables were fine, but after the accident the brakes weren't working correctly. If I pulled on the brake lever the brakes would engage but they wouldn't disengage when I released the lever. I assume this was because something had gone wrong with the cables?
Hi,The guys couldn't find any problem and blamed a dodgy chain, it was replaced again and I haven't had any problems since. Anyway, what I'm getting at is the current chain could only have had 500 miles on it, max. Surely that isn't high mileage?
Cables were fine, but after the accident the brakes weren't working correctly. If I pulled on the brake lever the brakes would engage but they wouldn't disengage when I released the lever. I assume this was because something had gone wrong with the cables?
snotrag said:
it may be the case that you need to adjust your cadence/riding style - riders who put a lot of torque through the chain wear stuff out much, much quicker. Spinning is faster, more efficient AND cheaper!
by 'much, much quicker' do you think 1500 miles is realistic?First thing, so we all know what you've got - is this your bike ?
http://cms.evans-cycles.live.ominor.com/products/s...
If so, then the hubs are OEM stuff and as a previous poster says they probably won't be the world's best hubs. But they should last a few years and 1500 miles just isn't realistic. You mentioned an accident and the bearings could have been damaged by impact, but in that case I would have expected frame damage as well.
Again, assuming this is is your bike, the cassette & chainrings are decent enough and I would expect far longer out of them. I use shimano chainrings and can't honestly tell you how long they last because I change them so infrequently. But I'd guess at 10,000miles rather than 1500.
The only way I could see a chain going in 500 miles is if you leave it outside to go very, very rusty and then ride it. At that rate of wear I'd be changing my chain every 3weeks (and I'm not).
My personal view, given that they say your entire transmission (chain/chainring/cassette) is shot would be to simply keep it lubricated & ride the bike until either you start getting problems changing gears or you notice the chainwheel teeth becoming very pointed & "hooked".
In the absence of a chain-measuring tool you can simply try to pull the chain off the front of the chainring at the horizontal position. This doesn't indicate chain wear, but the total wear in both the chain & chainring. It's normal to lift the chain slightly but if you can clear the teeth with the chain then it's well past it's sell-by date.
Don't worry about not being mechanically minded, bikes aren't rocket science and it's all about having the confidence to get stuck in. And the best way to build familiarity is to simply clean the bike regularly, then if an adjustment is needed it won't seem so daunting.
There are plenty of books around (just search amazon) but usually the bikes illustrated will be older generation and although the principles will be the same, the components will probably look different from yours. I would suggest you look around at the free stuff on the web first as there are loads of websites showing basic maintenance, ranging from very basic to Tour de France stuff. For example....
http://www.abdn.ac.uk/environment/transport/cycle_...
http://www.lcc.org.uk/index.asp?PageID=565
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
With the last one, don't be put off by the very dated look of the website. It's an amateur site but very well respected in the cycling world for it's depth of technical info and caters for everyone from novice to mechanic.
Other places to go are the dedicated cycling forums, for example
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/forums/index.php?c=4
Again, don't be put off by the appearances, not everyone is a Tour rider and bikeradar covers everyone from beginner to expert. It's backed by the Cycling magazines you'll see in Smiths, etc, and if you search around you'll see they've done "how to" guides on most things you'll come across when maintaining a bike.
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