Fried Griff Electrics
Discussion
Well one own goal here then.
Put the ECU back on top of the battery the other day with the nice little peice of rubber matting (I thought correctly) in place and 5 mins latter a shower of sparks from the passenger footwell and the car died.
So I guess something (ecu?) shorted out on the battery terminals.
Now I get the fuel pump come on, the lights work, the engine turns but does not fire. There is also a constant clicking from a 5 legged relay in the wiring harness that attaches to the ECU.
Anyone got any bright ideas on how to determine what I've done without trailoring it off to an expensive diagnostics session???
Put the ECU back on top of the battery the other day with the nice little peice of rubber matting (I thought correctly) in place and 5 mins latter a shower of sparks from the passenger footwell and the car died.
So I guess something (ecu?) shorted out on the battery terminals.
Now I get the fuel pump come on, the lights work, the engine turns but does not fire. There is also a constant clicking from a 5 legged relay in the wiring harness that attaches to the ECU.
Anyone got any bright ideas on how to determine what I've done without trailoring it off to an expensive diagnostics session???
Edited by virgil on Tuesday 26th May 11:43
Have you got a copy of the Range Rover Fuel Injection manual. PM me if you'd like it by email.
Failing that, a second hand standard 14CUX ECU might help. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the only change in the TVR version to a Range/Land Rover unit is the EPROM.
The TVR EPROM is socketed, if you can get someone to desolder the replacements EPROM and put in a socket you should be able to swap it out easily. I think its a 28 pin module.
Failing that, a second hand standard 14CUX ECU might help. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the only change in the TVR version to a Range/Land Rover unit is the EPROM.
The TVR EPROM is socketed, if you can get someone to desolder the replacements EPROM and put in a socket you should be able to swap it out easily. I think its a 28 pin module.
jeboa said:
Have you got a copy of the Range Rover Fuel Injection manual. PM me if you'd like it by email.
Failing that, a second hand standard 14CUX ECU might help. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the only change in the TVR version to a Range/Land Rover unit is the EPROM.
The TVR EPROM is socketed, if you can get someone to desolder the replacements EPROM and put in a socket you should be able to swap it out easily. I think its a 28 pin module.
Got the RR workshop manual but has bugger all in it about the FI, so a copy by mail would be very much appreciated. Thank you!!Failing that, a second hand standard 14CUX ECU might help. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the only change in the TVR version to a Range/Land Rover unit is the EPROM.
The TVR EPROM is socketed, if you can get someone to desolder the replacements EPROM and put in a socket you should be able to swap it out easily. I think its a 28 pin module.
Seasider said:
Bring one back from the Dam 
I think i've found one you can try but not mine
Dont break it !!!!!!
Give me a bell
Tried swapping the fuel inj relay as it's just making a buzzing noize, but new one does the same. I think i've found one you can try but not mine
Dont break it !!!!!!
Give me a bell
If I can borrow a spare, then the
are on me. Promise to be careful with it only issue is i've lost your no AGAIN!!!Edited by virgil on Tuesday 26th May 21:28
Ballistic Banana said:
Hhhmmmm painting, I've still got to do that currently knockind down my fireplace... Boring diy isn't it
was just cutting in with what was left in the pot... Do you want to pay someone to do it ???
Anyway, back on Virgils topic
I know what his next few posts will be
Cheers mate.
Owe you a couple of shandies next time you're up in town.
At least I now know it's a fried ECU and having pulled it apart, it is indeed a little bit charred!
Couple of the pins have lost their resister where they join the board, so unfortunately not an easy solder back together job.
Couple on Ebay and got a private offer but have one more thought...may be back........
Owe you a couple of shandies next time you're up in town.
At least I now know it's a fried ECU and having pulled it apart, it is indeed a little bit charred!
Couple of the pins have lost their resister where they join the board, so unfortunately not an easy solder back together job.
Couple on Ebay and got a private offer but have one more thought...may be back........
Edited by virgil on Wednesday 27th May 00:41
dnb said:
I have a 14CUX from my Griff you can have for considerably less than £350. (I have an aftermarket ECU now and won't be going back)
It's possible that I can repair your old one as well, although I don't have time for at least a couple of weeks.
Thanks. Might take you up on that if I can't find a sensibly priced alternative. It's possible that I can repair your old one as well, although I don't have time for at least a couple of weeks.
The corner of the MB is a bit crispy to say the least. If you've got a pic of a good one and some of those tiny little bit's of yellow square thing...I guess are resisters...then i'm sure its possible if nothing else took a hit.
I'm guessing my chip is fine, just the board is blown. can you buy surface mount components??
Yes, but I probably wouldn't need to buy any more! I have loads of SMT resistors and capacitors. If the tracks have vaporised, then the "power" tracks can be replaced with tinned copper wire bent to shape, and signal wires by "green wires".
If you can send me a couple of photos, I can give you an idea of how difficult the repair is going to be.
If you can send me a couple of photos, I can give you an idea of how difficult the repair is going to be.
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