Good carnauba wax for cellulose
Discussion
Thanks Domster, can I reword my question to read what good quality polish should I use on cellulose paint finish? Thanks.
One last question, my tap water is very hard and the kettle furs up with lime scale very quickly. Using this tap water for my car washing most likely is'nt best practice but can I add some sort of product to soften the water prior to adding my shampoo product? Or as mentioned below an A-Z of achieving an decent finish on cellulose. Thank you.
One last question, my tap water is very hard and the kettle furs up with lime scale very quickly. Using this tap water for my car washing most likely is'nt best practice but can I add some sort of product to soften the water prior to adding my shampoo product? Or as mentioned below an A-Z of achieving an decent finish on cellulose. Thank you.
Edited by crankedup on Thursday 28th May 11:50
Kelly at KDS may be better placed to answer. The trick would be to start with a very mild polish, say like Autoglym Super Resin Polish or our Lime Prime, on an inconspicuous area. The older paint can be very soft.
You can get water filters in-line with a hose that prevent limescale. Try the aquagleam at theultimatefinish.co.uk
You can get water filters in-line with a hose that prevent limescale. Try the aquagleam at theultimatefinish.co.uk
Edited by domster on Friday 29th May 01:07
Yup. something like lime prime / lime prime light would be a good start. The other polish of choice for me would be Menzerna Final Finish II. This is very light but a little stonger than the LP.
It'll also depend on your pad choice or if working by hand. Lime Prime can correct quite well if used with a heavier pad on the softer paints, something that's handy to have as you don;t want to be going gun ho with dodgy old tcut! I like to use it as more of a cleanser / gloss enhancer in conjunction with a finishing pad. If neither of these are strong enough to correct the paint fully (and there's plenty there to play with! be sure to get some paint thickness readings done) I'd go for menzerna intensive polish and work through the pads and then finish of with the LP / LPL or the Menz FF2.
Wax wise, any of the Dodo waxes. Won't go wrong with any of them.
ETA - as Dom says there are filters out there. But theres a far cheaper way. By yourself a water butt and use the rain water for rinsing off. Add to this a spritz of qd before drying you'll reduce the drying marks dramatically and add gloss and protection to your wax layers that you've built up.
It'll also depend on your pad choice or if working by hand. Lime Prime can correct quite well if used with a heavier pad on the softer paints, something that's handy to have as you don;t want to be going gun ho with dodgy old tcut! I like to use it as more of a cleanser / gloss enhancer in conjunction with a finishing pad. If neither of these are strong enough to correct the paint fully (and there's plenty there to play with! be sure to get some paint thickness readings done) I'd go for menzerna intensive polish and work through the pads and then finish of with the LP / LPL or the Menz FF2.
Wax wise, any of the Dodo waxes. Won't go wrong with any of them.
ETA - as Dom says there are filters out there. But theres a far cheaper way. By yourself a water butt and use the rain water for rinsing off. Add to this a spritz of qd before drying you'll reduce the drying marks dramatically and add gloss and protection to your wax layers that you've built up.
Edited by mneame on Friday 29th May 14:28
Take care in what you buy off these recommendations - sound as they are, be sure of you want any cut or not (Lime Prime cuts, LP Lite doesn't). If the paint is in good nick, then no cut required, its the oils in the cleanser that will give you a good base to apply wax to. After that, its whatever product takes your fancy and how often you use the car that will decide whether longevity (higher carnauba content and therefore price) is a key point for you.
PS Not sure Super Resin is a good choice as dust and white buildup can be a nightmare on classics.
PS Not sure Super Resin is a good choice as dust and white buildup can be a nightmare on classics.
Autoglym have spent a hell of a long time developing SRP polish in conjunction with the classic owners of the world so id say it's prob a pretty good choice for that sort of paint. Dust build up only an issue if you a)put too much on b) just sort of ghey it on instead of polishing in properly and c) dont have a microfibre
that is assuming you dont need to do any correction as already mentioned above.
and dodo LP and LP lite are much nicer to use than SRP.....and get damn good reviews from the detailing world.....
that is assuming you dont need to do any correction as already mentioned above.
and dodo LP and LP lite are much nicer to use than SRP.....and get damn good reviews from the detailing world.....
I have'nt made any moves yet regarding my cellulose paint finish. I do know the paint is 30 years old and to my eyes looks a little lifeless. I appreciate the celly will not have the dazzle of 2pack, and I don't want that dazzle, but I would like to give the finish some lift. All I have done during my ownership is a basic wash down, polish with Autogleam and waxed quite frequently with Johnsons auto wax.
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