Car passed it's MOT with some advisory's.. Help?
Car passed it's MOT with some advisory's.. Help?
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scooby_doo_do

Original Poster:

137 posts

225 months

Wednesday 27th May 2009
quotequote all
Well the car passed it's MOT at the mercedes garage last weekend, so quite chuffed. However he did not some advisorys.

Without sounding too silly, i'm trying to work out what part's i need, and how easy it is to do? If it's fairly straight forward, i'd like to give it a go myself.

1, Offside front suspension has slight play in a pin or bush of a lower wishbone inner bearing 2.5.b.1a
2, Offside inner rear lower suspension arm synthetic bust deteriorated, but not resultin in excessive movement 2.4.g.3
3, Nearside inner rear lower suspension arm synthetic bust deteriorated, but not resultin in excessive movement 2.4.g.3
4, Both front lower ball joints barely engage with locking part of "nylock" nuts.

1 and 4 i'm most concerned about, but don't really know what i'd be looking at?

I also need to find someone to setup the suspension on the car, as it gets terrible bump steer. Anyone recomend anywhere?

Many thanks

Craig.

V8Dom

3,547 posts

231 months

Wednesday 27th May 2009
quotequote all
scooby_doo_do said:
Well the car passed it's MOT at the mercedes garage last weekend, so quite chuffed. However he did not some advisorys.

Without sounding too silly, i'm trying to work out what part's i need, and how easy it is to do? If it's fairly straight forward, i'd like to give it a go myself.

1, Offside front suspension has slight play in a pin or bush of a lower wishbone inner bearing 2.5.b.1a
2, Offside inner rear lower suspension arm synthetic bust deteriorated, but not resultin in excessive movement 2.4.g.3
3, Nearside inner rear lower suspension arm synthetic bust deteriorated, but not resultin in excessive movement 2.4.g.3
4, Both front lower ball joints barely engage with locking part of "nylock" nuts.

1 and 4 i'm most concerned about, but don't really know what i'd be looking at?

I also need to find someone to setup the suspension on the car, as it gets terrible bump steer. Anyone recomend anywhere?

Many thanks


Craig.
hi Craig, im an mot tester as well

1/ drivers side wishbone has small play,.. be one of the polly bushes.....where wishbone bolts to chassis....

4/ the ball joint bolts to the wishbone via a stud with an nylock nut...what he is saying is is nut is done up tight but the thredded part of balljoint does not protrude enough through the nylock to be effective.... you need to see some thred proud of the nylock......

id worry more about 4 than 1.... get some new nuts and ground lower face with a grinder so nylock face is lower..... either that or certainly lock tight nut or split pin it so it never comes loose.....

supprised at 1/ but easy cure as polly bushes are so easy to replace...2 and 3 dont worry about

remember they are all advisories

dom

GTRMikie

874 posts

277 months

Wednesday 27th May 2009
quotequote all
With regard to point 4, my build manual says "after tightening the nut, drill through and lock with a split pin" or words to that effect!

MHunter

125 posts

220 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
GTRMikie said:
With regard to point 4, my build manual says "after tightening the nut, drill through and lock with a split pin" or words to that effect!
I believe the manual recommends lock pinning the upper ball joint, but not the lower one. I did all 4 ball joints, just for added security.

It's possible to find nuts made to support lock pins without having to drill the nut itself. It is much easier to realign when you have to remove the nut and put it back. Like in this photo

http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/STEERING%20Tie%20Rod%2...



ezakimak

1,871 posts

265 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
MHunter said:
It's possible to find nuts made to support lock pins without having to drill the nut itself. It is much easier to realign when you have to remove the nut and put it back. Like in this photo
I believe that those style of nuts (the one with the split pin) are referred to as “Castellated” nuts – or they are down here in OZ

ryan

ezakimak

1,871 posts

265 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
MHunter said:
I believe the manual recommends lock pinning the upper ball joint, but not the lower one. I did all 4 ball joints, just for added security.
How did you do the lower front ball joint – it looks like it sits in a cup in the wishbone? Photo from the Ultima sports web site


And this one from Stig’s build site


also what is this ball joint from?
does anyone know.

Steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
GTRMikie said:
With regard to point 4, my build manual says "after tightening the nut, drill through and lock with a split pin" or words to that effect!
So does my manual but the thread is through the nut by about 1.5mm so I did not bother as the nyloc nut is doing its job.

Steve

MHunter

125 posts

220 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
ezakimak said:
How did you do the lower front ball joint – it looks like it sits in a cup in the wishbone? Photo from the Ultima sports web site
The lower ball joint is assembled in the wishbone by the factory. I just lock pinned the nut that you see screwed on the lower ball joint in the photo from stig's build.

qwick

530 posts

296 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
quote=MHunter]

also what is this ball joint from?
does anyone know.

[/quote]

The top ball is a transit track rod end as far as I know, don't know the bottom one, I've seen three types of bottom ball on an Ultima, one has four bolts that hold it in place on the older cars, and the other two are ball joints that slot in to a 43mm ID or 37mm ID hole in the lower wishbone from the bottom. I think the larger ones are Opel Manta but not sure about the 37mm ones, maybe someone knows.

Edited by qwick on Thursday 28th May 18:36

MattYorke

4,561 posts

282 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
Think ford, either cortina or Granada, but can't remember.
Also top one is early trannie, later one has female thread iirc.

scooby_doo_do

Original Poster:

137 posts

225 months

Thursday 28th May 2009
quotequote all
thanks Guys.

If i take a picture of the front suspension etc, would someone be able to point out the points that need looking at/changing - just for my reference.. As there's lots of pics and i'm not sure what i'm looking at to be honest.

thanks

Craig.

Steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Friday 29th May 2009
quotequote all
scooby_doo_do said:
thanks Guys.

If i take a picture of the front suspension etc, would someone be able to point out the points that need looking at/changing - just for my reference.. As there's lots of pics and i'm not sure what i'm looking at to be honest.

thanks

Craig.
As there are bush advisorys front and back I would not worry too much about the pictures just order a complete set of suspension bushes from the Factory. They have an improved design since yours were fitted so replacing them all round would be a good move. It is not a difficult job to do.

Steve

GTRMikie

874 posts

277 months

Friday 29th May 2009
quotequote all
Steve_D said:
GTRMikie said:
With regard to point 4, my build manual says "after tightening the nut, drill through and lock with a split pin" or words to that effect!
So does my manual but the thread is through the nut by about 1.5mm so I did not bother as the nyloc nut is doing its job.

Steve
They must be using ball joints with longer threads on "modern" GTR's because mine definitely needed drilling and pinning.