A James May 'Cock' Moment
Discussion
Set aside this weekend as the weekend that I'd finally start work on my car by getting the cracked exhaust manifolds off and checking the cam wear and clearances. So, first job was taking off the inlet manifolds/fuel rail as one piece (as per the service manual). Service manual neglected to tell me about the four M6 (possibly) hex head allen bolts, and the four spacers underneath. Took the manifolds off, noticed the spacers, saw the open inlets and thought, "I hope what I think has happened, has actually happened", counted out the four little spacers; 1, 2, cock. Managed to retrieve one that was resting on top of a closed inlet valve, another I wasn't so lucky, it is now in cylinder 1. 
The valve is open just enough to allow the spacer to slip inside the engine, and I've already tried and they aren't magnetic! I've now got the exhaust manifold off, and have blocked up the exhaust port, I've been trying to get the cylinder as airtight as possible in order to try and hover the spacer out, without much luck. Can anyone come up with a better plan?!
The valve is open just enough to allow the spacer to slip inside the engine, and I've already tried and they aren't magnetic! I've now got the exhaust manifold off, and have blocked up the exhaust port, I've been trying to get the cylinder as airtight as possible in order to try and hover the spacer out, without much luck. Can anyone come up with a better plan?!
You may be able to hire one of those miniature endoscope type cameras with a small monitor to view the image as an aid to attaching the offending item to a flexible probe with something sticky on the end. I've seen one used down a spark plug hole before and image quality is very good.
Just another idea
Simon
Just another idea
Simon
eep! bluetac on the end of a stick, if it wont fit out of the spark plug hole the only other thing is to rotate the engine by hand so that the valve you have access to is open full otherwise its cylinder head off
A hoover would work best btw if you can rotate the engine (by hand)so that Both valves are open to allow the air to flow, if you close one of the valves then it wouldnt work too well.
A hoover would work best btw if you can rotate the engine (by hand)so that Both valves are open to allow the air to flow, if you close one of the valves then it wouldnt work too well.
Well the spacer is exactly the same diameter as the spark plug hole, so I think it's going to be tough to get it through there.
Currently the engine is rotated to give me max. lift on the inlet, which is the only way I can get anything into the cylinder.
My best effort so far as been to duct tape some washer jet piping onto the end of a vacuum attachment. The piping is flexible enough to get passed the valve, and just about flows enough air to pick up one of these spacers, but make it all work together is proving difficult.
Should I fail, anyone know where head gaskets can be bought for less than the £110 RC are charging?!
Currently the engine is rotated to give me max. lift on the inlet, which is the only way I can get anything into the cylinder.
My best effort so far as been to duct tape some washer jet piping onto the end of a vacuum attachment. The piping is flexible enough to get passed the valve, and just about flows enough air to pick up one of these spacers, but make it all work together is proving difficult.
Should I fail, anyone know where head gaskets can be bought for less than the £110 RC are charging?!
Edited by jammy_basturd on Saturday 30th May 19:06
you could rotate the engine so one valve is open and one closed, take the spark plug out and fit an air line in the spark plug hole, make sure its a snug fit so the air doesnt pee out the sides.
give it a blast and see if you can blow the spacer back out, have someone there with their finger or small nose pliers to grab the little fecker.
it happened to me mate, they are real pains to keep still. in the end i put mine on the rockers and wound a few lengths of insualtion tape around them to keep them in position and to stop them falling down the inlet ports.
give it a blast and see if you can blow the spacer back out, have someone there with their finger or small nose pliers to grab the little fecker.
it happened to me mate, they are real pains to keep still. in the end i put mine on the rockers and wound a few lengths of insualtion tape around them to keep them in position and to stop them falling down the inlet ports.
Funnily enough I've done that today as well!
Firstly, weeks before you plan to do any work, regularly start to spray the manifold to cat bolts with penetrating fluid!
You may well want to attempt to do it without removing the inlet manifold/fuel rail, but I found it much nicer to have more room. One tip, if you do remove the inlet manifold, don't forget there are spacers under the four middle pedestals!
Getting to the manifold to head bolts (13mm) isn't too difficult. I used a range of cranked ring spanners, small sockets, deep sockets, UJs and extensions and just about got to all of them. A ratchet spanner helps on most when loosened too.
Leaning over the engine, feel down the back of the gearbox, and disconnect the two lambda sensors (try and mark all wires first so you can remember which wire goes to which exhaust), there should be two whitish-yellow connectors after about 10" of wire from the sensors. They wires may also be cable-tied together, so you'll need to use some cutters to remove the cable ties.
Once all the manifold bolts are out you'll need to undo the two front engine mount bolts. You find these by taking the front wheels off, same level as the lower wishbone, and roughly in the middle of the lower wishbone chassis mounts. Think they are 19mm bolts that hold the engine mounts. Once they are loosened, use a jack under the engine (spread the load with a block of wood), to slightly jack the engine upwards. Then you can move it sideways slightly from above. This should give you enough clearance to remove the passenger (nearside) manifold. For the offside manifold, you'll need to remove on of the engine mount brackets. There should be four bolts situated conveniently behind a large coolant hose. Remove these, then the bracket, this should give you some more room to move the engine over and remove the offside manifold.
NB 1. When working under the car, always wear safety glasses, otherwise you'll end up spending 30 minutes looking into the bottom of an eye bath.
NB 2. Drop a small spacer, washer or nut into the engine and then you'll need to remove the engine anyway!
Firstly, weeks before you plan to do any work, regularly start to spray the manifold to cat bolts with penetrating fluid!
You may well want to attempt to do it without removing the inlet manifold/fuel rail, but I found it much nicer to have more room. One tip, if you do remove the inlet manifold, don't forget there are spacers under the four middle pedestals!
Getting to the manifold to head bolts (13mm) isn't too difficult. I used a range of cranked ring spanners, small sockets, deep sockets, UJs and extensions and just about got to all of them. A ratchet spanner helps on most when loosened too.
Leaning over the engine, feel down the back of the gearbox, and disconnect the two lambda sensors (try and mark all wires first so you can remember which wire goes to which exhaust), there should be two whitish-yellow connectors after about 10" of wire from the sensors. They wires may also be cable-tied together, so you'll need to use some cutters to remove the cable ties.
Once all the manifold bolts are out you'll need to undo the two front engine mount bolts. You find these by taking the front wheels off, same level as the lower wishbone, and roughly in the middle of the lower wishbone chassis mounts. Think they are 19mm bolts that hold the engine mounts. Once they are loosened, use a jack under the engine (spread the load with a block of wood), to slightly jack the engine upwards. Then you can move it sideways slightly from above. This should give you enough clearance to remove the passenger (nearside) manifold. For the offside manifold, you'll need to remove on of the engine mount brackets. There should be four bolts situated conveniently behind a large coolant hose. Remove these, then the bracket, this should give you some more room to move the engine over and remove the offside manifold.
NB 1. When working under the car, always wear safety glasses, otherwise you'll end up spending 30 minutes looking into the bottom of an eye bath.
NB 2. Drop a small spacer, washer or nut into the engine and then you'll need to remove the engine anyway!
Chewing gum is good for this - chew it up till, push it into the end of a plastic tube, and when you reckon its at it stickiest, go fishing with it. Good luck !Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff