Building a rabbit hutch run

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tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Saturday 30th May 2009
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As per the title, I'm building a rabbit run in the next week. I'm a DIY novice and whilst I'm happy with the putting together stage, the planning I need a little help with.

Its going to be 10 x 6 and 2ft tall and I'm planning on making a simple roof hinge door at one end - 6ft x 2 or 3 foot.

What thickness of timber should I be looking at, what type of timber do I want and how should I treat it so that it can be left outside? On the last point it needs to be pet safe.

Final question is where can I get the timber from that won't rip me off? I live in Herts/Beds area if that narrows it down any.

Thanks
Chris

Edited by tenohfive on Saturday 30th May 21:11

Chrisgr31

14,049 posts

270 months

Saturday 30th May 2009
quotequote all
The one I made for our rabbits is 8ft by 8ft.

I used 2 by 1 tanallised timber and have not added any extra treatment and it is just entering its the third year and has been out doors all the time, and shows no sign of rot or anything.

I wouldn't hinge the roof, as you need to be able to remove the entire thing on occasions. My roof is in two sections, and I screwed an supprt bar on to the inside of the side pieces so that the roof sections just drop in. As the run n eeds moving regularly (ours is on the lawn during the summer) I have used eyes at each corner (2 in one piece and 1 in the other) at the top and bottom and then just drop tent pegs through to secure it. The lower pegs go into the grass as well. In the winter it is cable tied together on the patio.

The run takes the weight of the neighbours terriers who keep trying to get at the rabbits!

Timber came from the local timber merchant and rather than using chicken wire I bought a roll of wire especially designed for animal runs.

Hope that helps

GreigM

6,739 posts

264 months

Saturday 30th May 2009
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Firstly consider the rabbit - the buggers like to dig, so what surface are you putting it on? I go for concrete slabs as anything else and they make a huge mess and its difficult to clean. So you want to be able to move it so you can pressure washer the concrete slabs - so weight is key. I have one which has lasted a long time, and is built of simple rectangular panels which are screwed together and convered in chicken wire (preferrably the slightly stronger stuff with small rectanglar holes, rather than large holes). I build it with pre-treated wood from B&Q - its about 2m long by about 50mm wide and 25mm thick - bunch of screws, some hinges, staples and staple gun (to attach chicken wire to wood) and job done.

There are 5 panels - 4 sides and a roof. No need for a floor if on concrete slabs, otherwise you'll need one as the can dig out quicker than you can imagine. You'll have to think how they'll get in/out - will the front open, or the top?

Apart from that just make sure you staple the chicken wire on the outside so there are no sharp edges, and consider putting a cover over a part of it to give them shade (they should never be without shade).

It should really be simple - if you're still in doubt remind me tomorrow and I'll take a pic of ours (its 2mx2m and 1m high and has a hutch inside and they live in it full-time).

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Saturday 30th May 2009
quotequote all
Its not going to be permanently in place, its going to be a removable run so that when I put the rabbits in their hutch I can pop the run up against the wall at the side of the house. When its in use it'll be on our garden lawn, probably with a patch over a flowerbed (so that if they dig its not on the lawn, though if it doesn't work its not a major issue.) I'm not keen on them having a floor as I'm quite keen for them to be able to graze, and because it makes the issue of putting the run away much more of an issue - and I'm very keen on being able to put it away as the gardens not that big, and if we're entertaining (or just want to sit on the deck and enjoy the garden) the run itself would take it over.

I need to do something so that I can get them out of the run, if not a hinge then having to roof seperate and using some method to attach it sounds like a good idea - Chris, I'm struggling to picture the method you're talking about to attach it - you have any pic's?

You've both mentioned something I'm already quite keen on - not using chicken wire. Foxes tend to be pretty bold these days and I want it to be tough enough to be fox proof - I'm waiting on a response from a rabbit forum about how thick it needs to be.

I've not quite worked out how I'm going to provide shade yet - probably a think sheet of treated MDF or something similarly cheap made waterproof, then nail it in place over one of the ends - I'm thinking about 6ft x 2.5ft should provide enough cover?

Chrisgr31

14,049 posts

270 months

Sunday 31st May 2009
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We have two rabbits, and they each have their own hutch now, as it has stpped them fighting! But they share the run. One of the huches is a 2 storey thing, so it provides shade to itsopen area underneath, however I have also attached some corrugated garden shed roof material to half of one of my roof panels.
Not sure I know how to attcah pics to this site, I'll pm you for an email address and then send some. Best take them first!


tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Sunday 31st May 2009
quotequote all
Cheers, I'd appreciate that.

GreigM

6,739 posts

264 months

Sunday 31st May 2009
quotequote all
tenohfive said:
I've not quite worked out how I'm going to provide shade yet - probably a think sheet of treated MDF or something similarly cheap made waterproof
I use an old groundsheet - you can get them cheap from a camping shop - just staple it on top...if you can buid your run being slightly higher at one end to let the rain run off - keeps the whole thing light....

As for the chicken wire - remember foxes like chickens too, so if it works for them it'll work for you....I get the slightly better stuff as its more durable and slightly stiffer (easier to work with)...but to be honest any will do so long as its attached securely (i.e. staples at no more than 1 inch intervals)...

A quick google shows this:
http://www.meshdirect.co.uk/

I use the stuff on the right, but either would be fine and I've used "cheap" chicken wire in the past and have seen foxes standing on top of the run looking in at the rabbits and no harm has come.

If you're not putting in a floor make sure its heavy enough a fox can't lift it - that would be more of a concern than them getting through the wire....especially if leaving it on grass which may be uneven as they'll find a corner to lift.

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Sunday 31st May 2009
quotequote all
Cheers, that makes sense. And that mesh is a couple of quid cheaper than the stuff I'd picked out on ebay, so will stick an order in tomorrow.

And I hadn't though about foxes lifting the run. Given the overall size I'd imagine it'll be heavy enough to deter them, but once I've got it made I'll make a decision if it needs making more secure - either by adding weight or adding eyes and using tent pegs to secure the run each day.

Did a bit more reading up on pet safe varnish, and theres not alot of products googleable as being suitable, nor anything advertised on B&Q/Screwfix/Homebase etc websites, so plumped for some from Pets At Home - was about £4.00 for a pot, ready for use in 24 hours and sold as being pet safe so can't complain.

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Monday 1st June 2009
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Quick bump to ask what size holes would be best?

Edited by tenohfive on Monday 1st June 12:33

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Monday 1st June 2009
quotequote all

Gone for 25mm square holes, 16g. Works out £50 for the amount we'll need but I'm quite happy with that. Popped to Travis Perkins for the timber, got 38m of treated 2x1" for £22 which is alot less than I expected. Will sand it down and varnish it then get cracking on construction. Still need to pop to Homebase and come up with a simple latch system for the roof (which is going to be entirely removeable.) I think I get what was being discussed about eyes now. What I'm planning on doing is putting an eye on the middle of the 6ft side at each end, and using something simple like a nut and bolt to keep them in place. I'll probably put either two eyes on the bottom of the run so I can tent peg it to the floor to stop foxes getting under the run, much as the chances of foxes getting into my garden (thanks to 6 foot fences with concrete at the bottom) are slim.

Any thoughts/suggestions/improvements?

Chrisgr31

14,049 posts

270 months

Monday 1st June 2009
quotequote all
Taken some photos of mine and may or may not have managed to upload them here http://s647.photobucket.com/albums/uu195/Chrisgr31...

I would put fixings for the sides top and bottom rather than in the middle otherwise there is a danger of it twisting.

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Wednesday 3rd June 2009
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Cheers for that Chris, think I've got it all planned out now.

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Thursday 4th June 2009
quotequote all
Another question:

Due to transport issues, the total length of wood was chopped up into 8ft lengths to fit into my car. Given the size lengths I want are going to be 10ft, 6ft and 2ft that does create a slight problem.

My first thought is that I can trim 2ft off a few of them, leaving me with the 6ft lengths. Then I can attach the 2ft lengths to the 8ft lengths, creating the 10ft lengths. The issue would be joining the 6ft to the 8ft lengths. The only way I can think of to get round this would be a strip of metal about 1 inch diameter and 6 inches long with holes at each end, so I can screw one into each section. Two of these strips (top and bottom) for each join.

Does such a thing exist and would it work? If not, is there a way I can get round this?
The other option is to go for an 8ft square run, which may be an option.

Chrisgr31

14,049 posts

270 months

Thursday 4th June 2009
quotequote all
Mine is 8ft square, and I think the reason for this was do with the size of the wire mesh! It saved wastage!

I did cheat with mf corners as well by using metal right angles to hold it all together!

tenohfive

Original Poster:

6,276 posts

197 months

Friday 5th June 2009
quotequote all
That sounds like a smart move. I'm building the run to the specs given by the adoption centre, so hoping she'll be happy with 8x8 - if anything theres slightly more room than 10x6.

Fingers crossed she is, otherwise I'll be back down Travis Perkins trying to fit a 10ft length of timber inside an 8ft long car...