Discussion
Please help folks! I have a brake problem, new callipers new disks & pads new flex hoses new master cylinder, but the front drivers side brake keeps locking, it starts driving great for the first few mins then the travel on the peddle reduces until I have total Lock.
Lift the wheel of ground and release the bleed nipple and the wheel frees up. I am totally lost as I have got rid of all the air.
Any help would be great chaps
Lift the wheel of ground and release the bleed nipple and the wheel frees up. I am totally lost as I have got rid of all the air.
Any help would be great chaps
Follow the hose back to the solid pipework and crack the union at the far end of the pipe to release the pressure. If that cures the symptoms you know it's not the hose, more likely the master cylinder. That should affect both sides equally, but if the other calliper was faulty then you wouldn't see the same symptoms ...
andybloggs260@ho said:
id aim for the hose internals causin one way valve had it happen on lots of memebers vehicles ive been called out to easy way to check just put old hose bcak on bleed up brakes and see how it drives id bet problem cured
Much much easier way to check is to simply crack a union somewhere between the hose and the m/c. No need to muck about changing hoses and bleeding etc.daft question why did you replace the master cylinder ? was old one faulty if not put it back on and try if you check allong the lines to see where presure is held then that will give you the answer to the problem as its obviously not calipers or flexi's work you way back up towards the master and hopefully solve your mystery
mac123yre said:
.Have now moved the brake pipes and it seems all front wheels lock up after 10mins is it possible that it may be to much pressure in the reservoir, as the master cylinder is new
The master cylinder being new makes it more likely that it is wrong adjusted. It is the master cylinder that holds pressure, not the reservoir.If the brakes unlock when you slacken the union at the master cylinder then the master cylinder is the cause of the problem. That could be because it is faulty (worn, gunged up etc) or because the pushrod is set too tight. Being new makes the first issue less likely and the second one much more likely.
There is adjustment (a nut on the operating rod) to set it correctly on the master cylinder (it needs just that little bit of play). If no play (or less!) it could cause your symptoms.
How did you setup the new one? As I assume it needs adjustment as the standard setting is unknown and adapting to the wedge type of play/operation is always required.
Rob
How did you setup the new one? As I assume it needs adjustment as the standard setting is unknown and adapting to the wedge type of play/operation is always required.
Rob
That make sense that it could be this as the car had the same problem when I got it, but just thought I could cur it by replacing the lot, thanks I will try that.
To reduce the pressure do I screw it in or out?
Also my expansion tank has more leaks than MI5 can you tell me what car it is of so I can get a replacement
To reduce the pressure do I screw it in or out?
Also my expansion tank has more leaks than MI5 can you tell me what car it is of so I can get a replacement
Have now tried the lot new cylinder new callipers disks pads and changed the flexi pipes twice, am now on braided hoses, and still the master cylinder not letting the fluid back, I have adjusted the travel on the servo unit to stop bind but still no luck, I have come to the end of my mechanical knowledge any ideas?
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