Do I have an immobiliser fault?
Do I have an immobiliser fault?
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Discussion

ukstmoo

Original Poster:

167 posts

215 months

Sunday 7th June 2009
quotequote all
Not sure if I have a fault with the immobiliser.

Twice now over a two month period the Griff would not start. The ignition comes on ok and the usual familiar noises spring into life like the fuel pump but the engine will not turn over (new battery fitted 3 months ago).

I had this problem on a Renault Clio from new. The immobiliser would kick in for no reason and the car had to be left for up to an hour before the ECU unscrambled itself.

I did jack up the car and cleaned the spade connector to the starter motor solenoid and the car started immediately. I wondered was this a coincidence, as by this time an hour had gone by and maybe the same thing happened with the ECU as with the Clio.

Has anyone else had a similar situation? confused

lazyitus

19,931 posts

295 months

Sunday 7th June 2009
quotequote all
From what you've said, if the fuel pump is priming when you turn the key, I don't think it will be the immobiliser that's causing the problem.

When my alarm/immob. packed up 5 years ago, the pump wouldn't prime at all.

I reckon your starter motor is the issue here.

Edited by lazyitus on Sunday 7th June 22:32

thegman

1,928 posts

233 months

Monday 8th June 2009
quotequote all
Yes it could be the immobiliser. There are several circuits, and in my case the pump was priming but the engine starter circuit was fried. I had Carl Baker replace my immobiliser and have no problems since.

steve-V8s

2,924 posts

277 months

Monday 8th June 2009
quotequote all
ukstmoo said:
Not sure if I have a fault with the immobiliser.

Has anyone else had a similar situation? confused
Yes
The Immobiliser has several channels one of which is used to disable the starter. In my experience the problem starts out as intermittent and then becomes permanent, both the V8s and the Griff gave up in this way. In a proper installation the immobiliser output would be used to switch a relay which switches the starter solenoid. The standard installation doesn’t do this and eventually it seems something inside the immobiliser gives up and is no longer able to pass the required current to pull the solenoid in. The normal fix for this is to fit the relay that TVR didn’t. It seems that that generally the immobiliser is still able to power the relay even if it can no longer pull in the solenoid.
To do the job properly it is also not a bad idea to run a new cable to the starter whilst you are at it, the standard TVR offering is a little on the thin side.

griffith400

90 posts

260 months

Monday 8th June 2009
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Just another option as food for thought. You said it's intermitent, does it happen after the car has been run and is still hot?

Could be the infamous Hot Start Problem as this is a similar situation. My Griff has this and although there is a cure via the ModWise kit, I've always found that as long as I leave my fans running till they cut off, the car will be OK.

Its usually a problem at garages when stopping for petrol. Now I just look like a numpty waiting for up to a couple mins for the car to cool itself down before making a move to fill the car. Does leave people thinking "what's he up to?" smile

Might not be your issue but it's a common one for us Griffters so thought I'd mention it!

Steve.

thegman

1,928 posts

233 months

Monday 8th June 2009
quotequote all
griffith400 said:
Just another option as food for thought. You said it's intermitent, does it happen after the car has been run and is still hot?

Could be the infamous Hot Start Problem as this is a similar situation. My Griff has this and although there is a cure via the ModWise kit, I've always found that as long as I leave my fans running till they cut off, the car will be OK.

Its usually a problem at garages when stopping for petrol. Now I just look like a numpty waiting for up to a couple mins for the car to cool itself down before making a move to fill the car. Does leave people thinking "what's he up to?" smile

Might not be your issue but it's a common one for us Griffters so thought I'd mention it!

Steve.
My experience was that the hot start kit did not fix the problem - instead resulted in the frequency of failure starting to increase. If the immob circuits are breaking down, the hot start is not going to be a cure IMO.

ukstmoo

Original Poster:

167 posts

215 months

Monday 8th June 2009
quotequote all
[quote=griffith400]Just another option as food for thought. You said it's intermitent, does it happen after the car has been run and is still hot?

Could be the infamous Hot Start Problem as this is a similar situation. My Griff has this and although there is a cure via the ModWise kit, I've always found that as long as I leave my fans running till they cut off, the car will be OK.

Its usually a problem at garages when stopping for petrol. Now I just look like a numpty waiting for up to a couple mins for the car to cool itself down before making a move to fill the car. Does leave people thinking "what's he up to?" smile

Might not be your issue but it's a common one for us Griffters so thought I'd mention it!

Steve.


No it is not a hot engine issue. Both times the car had not been started for at least 1 week.

Thanks for all the input

Steve Moore

mcosh

289 posts

275 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
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Just had the same prblem fixed. Nothing wrong with imobiliser it was the wiring to the starter motor circuit from imobiliser that had deteriated.Mark


TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Saturday 13th June 2009
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Can any one comment on my problem here.. the bit you push into the slot before you tirn the key... sometimes it work and some times it don't... today at the petrol station I had to do it 4 times before the pump kicked in?... is there a nack to these push in bit's?.. do you have to leave them in for a set period of time,... and do you then have a limited time to get the key in and turned?.. .dam thing is annoying at times!!

Loubaruch

1,444 posts

227 months

Sunday 14th June 2009
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TVR Beaver said:
Can any one comment on my problem here.. the bit you push into the slot before you tirn the key... sometimes it work and some times it don't... today at the petrol station I had to do it 4 times before the pump kicked in?... is there a nack to these push in bit's?.. do you have to leave them in for a set period of time,... and do you then have a limited time to get the key in and turned?.. .dam thing is annoying at times!!
Do you know the type and model of your alarm/immobiliser?

The Meta system uses the square key to operate the immobiliser only. The remote key fob operates the alarm and if set up correctly it also switches the immobiliser. If the fob fails you can always start your car with the square key but the alarm will sound. Just pushing the square key into the socket momentarily should be adequate to operate the immobiliser. I believe you then only have a few seconds to switch on your ignition otherwise it locks out. Not sure what the procedures are for non Meta systems.

TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Sunday 14th June 2009
quotequote all
Think it's the standard Meta system.. that sounds like the one... I didn't know it should work of the fob also.. but that said, I never lock the car as it lives in my garage or at work most of the time... Will see if it does....
Think the problem is time from insertion to key in ignition and it timing out?.. may be I should split the things up of put it on a longer string so I can have the key already in the ignition?.. There is a red LED on the female of the square on the column... should this stay on when you insert the male part?.. sometimes it does, some times it goes off??confused

Loubaruch

1,444 posts

227 months

Monday 15th June 2009
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The leather handbook that came with the car states a 20 second time period to turn on the ignition after plugging in the square thingy before the immobiliser locks out. Have to admit it seems a very much shorter time to me.

On my 96 500: With the immobiliser armed and the red led flashing on the square socket, plugging in the square key causes the flashing to stop and the led to give a single short flash it then extinguishes until the immobiliser rearms and starts flashing again.

If your alarm and immobiliser are OK you should be able to sync the alarm and immobiliser together, this saves messing with the square thing as you only need the remote fob. Apparently the immobiliser can only be synchronised a few times to the immobiliser before it fails to lock. There are quite a few threads on here re alarms/immobilisers

TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Monday 15th June 2009
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Mmm.. will have to read up on this... I've been sorting 'other' things.. but now they are done... this does need looking at... It works on mine if I plug it in and the red led stop's on.. if I get that and into the ignition quick it will work... If not and it goes off whilst in.. chances are it won't work?.... It flashes as you say whilst sat...
I think it's the plugging in and it not staying on sold that's the problem.. but not sure which bit's at fault there.. I have 2 fob's and one does appear to work a bit better than the other?.. I've also put it on a longer chain now so I can have the key in the ignitioin before plugging it in.. Helps a bit!....
Cheers

GriffTony

17 posts

220 months

Tuesday 16th June 2009
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Had an intermittent problem with the immobiliser on my Griff. A couple of times it wouldn’t start after stopping at the petrol station, then it did it once when starting from cold. Then it was fine for a while. Then one day, the pump would prime but the starter wouldn’t turn, or on trying again, it would start but no fuel. That time was when we were booked on a ferry to France the next day!

A call to Carl Baker at Car & Bike Installations Ltd - on a Sunday morning - sorted us out with a temporary bypass so we could go on holiday (thanks Carl!!). Take it to him if you can - he is the man for TVR alarms. He replaced the immobiliser and no probs since, and no need to fit a ‘hot start kit’.
Also, he pointed out that there's no need to use the stupid plug in thing. Put the key in, turn on to ignition position, and press the keyfob button for a second, as you would to set or unset the alarm. Fuel pump should prime and ignition live. Bingo. So much easier!
Hope that helps.

5.0ltr

2,834 posts

228 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
quotequote all
TVR Beaver said:
Mmm.. will have to read up on this... I've been sorting 'other' things.. but now they are done... this does need looking at... It works on mine if I plug it in and the red led stop's on.. if I get that and into the ignition quick it will work... If not and it goes off whilst in.. chances are it won't work?.... It flashes as you say whilst sat...
I think it's the plugging in and it not staying on sold that's the problem.. but not sure which bit's at fault there.. I have 2 fob's and one does appear to work a bit better than the other?.. I've also put it on a longer chain now so I can have the key in the ignitioin before plugging it in.. Helps a bit!....
Cheers
The oblong fob that fits nr the ignition barrel is an emergency fit 'get you home' type thingamyjig. Just insert ignition key, turn to last position before start where you get all the lights on, press the alarm fob plip, hear fuel pump prime and start with ignition key, any other method aint gonna help.

TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
quotequote all
Tony / 5 lTR... top info.. I did not know this... wish I was home now so I could give it a go!.. obviously the last owner didn't know this either..... Great info.....
I assume it's the bigger of the two buttons you press?....
That's a point... what does the big one do and what does the small one do???
The big one apperas to lock and un-lock the system... not sure about the other...
As I said... had the car since October and have been doing many other things and it lives in my internal garage so never lock it... A bit more info would be appreciated if you know... Cheers

ukstmoo

Original Poster:

167 posts

215 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
quotequote all
What's this oblong fob thingamy.
I bought my 1995 Griff 500 last November and I do not have a thingamybob fob.
I only have a key with the standard fob that has two buttons. Am I missing something banghead

TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
quotequote all
If it's anything like mine.. then no.. But I now know the secret (that the rest of you lot have been doing with the key fob!!).... My car is 99 reg so may be something they fitted to later models??

5.0ltr

2,834 posts

228 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
quotequote all
Perhaps it is a Meta alarm rather than the Gemini system on earlier cars? By the ignition barrel is a female rectangular slot into which the emergency fob goes to disarm and 'get you home' thats what my 99 500 has anyway.

TVR Beaver

2,874 posts

209 months

Wednesday 17th June 2009
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Tony / 5Ltr.. that didn't work... put in the key and turned ignition on... pressed the fob... nothing happened?. just the red light on the ctr panel lit whilst I pressed it.. then went off when I stoped pressing it.. so do I have a problem?...
Where is the alarm situated?? I know there is somthing in the passenger side behind the door and also a box under the ctr consul... is there more to it??
If it's not working right is it a registration issue or does it need fixing.. and if so... who can do it?.. ant assistance would be good... Cheers...
.