Fox Floar Pressure settings
Fox Floar Pressure settings
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Discussion

John D9395

Original Poster:

381 posts

231 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Just bought an 08 Giant Reign 1, which has the Fox Float front and rear suspension.

Can anyone give me advise on what pressure I should be running at (I assume there must be some guidlines of body weight - psi?), or what to look for to indicate that more or less pressure is required.

Thanks


.Adam.

1,861 posts

286 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Not sure about the fork, but on my rear RP23, it was recommended to start with around 25% sag.

mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
You'll need to adjust the pressure until you get the right sag in both. The forks will run at a lower pressure though.

As for pressures? Well you don't say how heavy you are. Start off at 95psi for the forks and 150psi for the shock. Adjust until you get the right sag on both. Then ride. If it feels too soft increase pressure if it feels to hard reduce pressure.

Edited by mk1fan on Wednesday 10th June 15:18

langy

630 posts

262 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Rule of thumb, your weight in lbs = psi in shock / fork

mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
langy said:
Rule of thumb, your weight in lbs = psi in shock / fork
Maybe for the shock, but the forks? I'd like to see a set of 32 or 36 Floats running 200psi or indeed a set of Rev airs!!

langy

630 posts

262 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
mk1fan said:
langy said:
Rule of thumb, your weight in lbs = psi in shock / fork
Maybe for the shock, but the forks? I'd like to see a set of 32 or 36 Floats running 200psi or indeed a set of Rev airs!!
Guess it's dependant on how many pies and pints you've consumed drink

John D9395

Original Poster:

381 posts

231 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all

Thanks for the quick reply's!

I guess 'sag' is the amount the bike goes down when you sit on it?

With the right pressure, how far would you expect it to go down, not a lot ie 25mm or so, 1/4 travel, 1/2 travel?

I would guess at the moment (will get the wife to check it when I sit on it next time) more than 1/2, probably not as far as 1/2.

From memory I think the bike has 6" total travel.

Thanks again

John

Antarctic Mat

206 posts

225 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
John, there should be a rubber O ring on your rear shock, push it right up to the base of the shock body, then when you sit on the bike the O ring will move, then when you get off you can see how far the bike sags by measuring how far the O ring has moved. Adjust the pressure in the shock until you have the correct amount of sag, I adjust mine so that I have 14mm of sag when I sit on it, it works for me but you may have to play around until it feels right to you.

Hope this helps.

Mat.

John D9395

Original Poster:

381 posts

231 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Mat

Thanks.

I would guess that I have about 30mm - 40mm as I can see / feel it go dowm when I sit on it, don't think I would notice 14mm. The air is only what was in on delivery so would guess a little more is required.

Last bike was a hard tail with basic Rock Shocks on the front, so have no experience of what to expect with air shocks.

Will put a bit more air in at the weekend.

Many thanks

John

.Adam.

1,861 posts

286 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Fox have got some vids on there site about setting sag for forks and shock, see here.

John D9395

Original Poster:

381 posts

231 months

Wednesday 10th June 2009
quotequote all
Adam

Just watched shocks & fork film, and am now a lot clearer on what to do.

Thanks

John

mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
langy said:
Guess it's dependant on how many pies and pints you've consumed drink
Not really. I'm 200lbs ish and my forks run 135psi. I think you may find that your original bit of advice is only relevant to shocks. If someone weighs 200lbs and pumps their forks up to 200psi - assuming the cartridge doesn't explode - then they wouldn't be able to move the forks. Unless you're thinking of forks that have an air compression platform circuit to control a coil spring?


pdV6

16,442 posts

284 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
John D9395 said:
I would guess that I have about 30mm - 40mm as I can see / feel it go dowm when I sit on it, don't think I would notice 14mm. The air is only what was in on delivery so would guess a little more is required.
The travel of your frame is how far the rear wheel can move vertically.
When setting the sag on your shock by looking at the O-ring, you're looking at the stroke of the shock which is vastly less (but there is a 1:1 correspondence between the 2).

When you're off the bike, the total stroke of the shock will be the length of the shock shaft that is visible. For the sake of argument and example, let's assume that you have 60mm of shock stroke.

So, the shock compressing by 60mm equates to the rear wheel deflecting by 6 inches.

To achieve 1/4 of your travel (1.5 inches) as sag, you need to set the pressure in the shock so that it compresses by 1/4 of it's stroke when you sit on it without bouncing, i.e. 15mm.

The easy way to do this is to push the O ring hard up against the body of the shock, gently sit on the bike in your normal riding position and then carefully get off. The O ring will have moved a way down the shaft of the shock. Measure how far. If it's less than 15mm, let some air out. If more pump some more in. Repeat until satisfied.

If your 6" travel bike is sagging by 30-40mm then you're in the right ballpark already, so only a little tweaking is needed.

pdV6

16,442 posts

284 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
The other thing to note is that if during a typical ride you're not using the full travel available once or twice (i.e. the O ring going right to the end of the shaft and possibly dropping off the end) then you can probably afford to run a little more sag.

The flip side is that if you're always bottoming out then you need a bit more pressure in the aircan and thus less sag.

John D9395

Original Poster:

381 posts

231 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all

PDV6, thanks.

Your worked example + Fox film is painting a good picture.

Intend to check it out when I get home tonight.

mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
Not wanting to doubt your abilities but it might be worth popping along to your LBS - with the bike - to get some help on setting it up. As long as they're not busy I'm sure they'll be happy to help. A lot easier than trying to understand a forum post.

M400 NBL

3,543 posts

235 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
mk1fan said:
langy said:
Guess it's dependant on how many pies and pints you've consumed drink
Not really. I'm 200lbs ish and my forks run 135psi. I think you may find that your original bit of advice is only relevant to shocks. If someone weighs 200lbs and pumps their forks up to 200psi - assuming the cartridge doesn't explode - then they wouldn't be able to move the forks. Unless you're thinking of forks that have an air compression platform circuit to control a coil spring?
It would depend on whether the OP is offroading or not. I'm around 220lbs and i'm fairly sure 135psi would bottom out on the rear shock. Can the position of the shock and geometry of the frame make a difference to how much the shock will travel for a given pressure?

Mine's a 1999 Cannondale (just before they released lefty forks) which I am sure are a lot different to modern full suspension MTB's.


mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
I wasn't talking about SHOCKS I was talking about FORKS.

Yes, different linkage types have different effects on shocks.

Edited by mk1fan on Thursday 11th June 13:38

Richair

1,021 posts

220 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
Firstly, balls to going to a shop. It's easy and it's good to play with suspension set-ups as you learn what everything does and how it affects the ride. Anyone who tells you different is talking crap. Most shops can't/won't be able to set it up 'properly' for someone anyhow, it's all about how the bike rides on the trail.

Secondly congrats on buying the right bike wink

As mentioned above it does depend on what riding you're doing, but being as you've bought a Reign I would like to think it will get some spank mileage!

Starting off with your weight in lbs is a good starting point, but checking the static sag is the next thing; as mentioned above, around 25% (with Propedal off) is about the target.

But this is where you riding style and type of riding comes in! You've got the suspension travel, so use it. On a big hit or compression the bike should bottom (large volume shocks like the RP will blow through the travel on big hits). If it's bottoming harshly, put some more air in! If its no-way near getting full travel, take some air out.

The same applies to the forks really, only you want to really fully bottoming them out unless on really big hits. Also, the blue compression adjuster is there for a reason so use it! Setting the amout of travel used purely on air pressure means you're not getting the best out of the suspension and the front will dive under braking and in turns. It's a bit of a balancing act at the end of the day!

Just don't be afraid to play; the adjusters are there to be used! Once set up properly, a bike feels sooo much beter to ride smile

mk1fan

10,850 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
The first thing to set-up on the suspension - front or back is the sag. Then you start playing with the other adjustments available. It's no use running to much sag and trying to compensate by upping the compression adjustments.

Personally, I'd set sag, then rebound, then compression.