Help me build my MTB commuter
Discussion
I have one of these that I want to convert to a commuter....
Now, mine doesn't have disks, just rim brakes, and there are no disk bosses on the frame or forks in any case. The wheel rims are properly worn down so need replacing. The drivetrain looks OK, bit tired maybe, and is all Shimano Deore (prob 2003 vintage with some newer bits of replacement stuff).
So, on the face of it, I'd like some advice on new wheels, tyres and rim brakes (might as well replace them, and I don't fancy all the rigmerole of making the frame and forks disk-capable). I might even replace the drivetrain, depends on cost. I would be using it on road and towpath.
Or, should I just avoid all the hassle and buy a new bike?
Thanks for any suggestions
Now, mine doesn't have disks, just rim brakes, and there are no disk bosses on the frame or forks in any case. The wheel rims are properly worn down so need replacing. The drivetrain looks OK, bit tired maybe, and is all Shimano Deore (prob 2003 vintage with some newer bits of replacement stuff).
So, on the face of it, I'd like some advice on new wheels, tyres and rim brakes (might as well replace them, and I don't fancy all the rigmerole of making the frame and forks disk-capable). I might even replace the drivetrain, depends on cost. I would be using it on road and towpath.
Or, should I just avoid all the hassle and buy a new bike?
Thanks for any suggestions
Edited by bigandclever on Sunday 14th June 13:59
Shimano Deore stuff is fine, a budget Mavic wheelset from the likes of Merlin or Chain Reaction shouldn't set you back too much, I had Deore V brakes on my xc bike which were like 20 quid from CRC, and tyres can be whatever you like.
www.chainreactioncycles.co.uk
www.chainreactioncycles.co.uk
Darkslider said:
Wheel rims don't really 'wear down'. Just get some new brake blocks on there and it'll be reet!
Actually, yes they do, quite a lot actually.And as the OP says, eventually they explode, your tyre comes off the rim wall comes off like a giant reel of swarf and stabs you in the leg.
snotrag said:
Darkslider said:
Wheel rims don't really 'wear down'. Just get some new brake blocks on there and it'll be reet!
Actually, yes they do, quite a lot actually.And as the OP says, eventually they explode, your tyre comes off the rim wall comes off like a giant reel of swarf and stabs you in the leg.
Darkslider said:
snotrag said:
Darkslider said:
Wheel rims don't really 'wear down'. Just get some new brake blocks on there and it'll be reet!
Actually, yes they do, quite a lot actually.And as the OP says, eventually they explode, your tyre comes off the rim wall comes off like a giant reel of swarf and stabs you in the leg.
bigandclever said:
Darkslider said:
snotrag said:
Darkslider said:
Wheel rims don't really 'wear down'. Just get some new brake blocks on there and it'll be reet!
Actually, yes they do, quite a lot actually.And as the OP says, eventually they explode, your tyre comes off the rim wall comes off like a giant reel of swarf and stabs you in the leg.
My maths isn't brilliant, but even I can work out your wheels should be seven years old, not 15. Besides, I've got an ancient Mavic D521 that was on first proper mountain bike in 2000, that rim has had an absolute raping, been buckled and trued so many times it's nearly inside out, and has had many years of worn to the metal cheapo brake blocks squealing their way along it in an attempt to stop on some trail or other. And it's only just starting to show score marks and the start of a lip around the outside.
I'd give it another five years yet.
So if for some reason you've replaced the nice shiny new wheels on your bike with ones 8 years older, you know that a D521 is the one to go for
Edited by Darkslider on Sunday 14th June 19:49
Darkslider said:
You've got a 2002 bike with 15 year old wheels?
My maths isn't brilliant, but even I can work out your wheels should be seven years old, not 15.
Erm... oh yeah My maths isn't brilliant, but even I can work out your wheels should be seven years old, not 15.
I shall take a look and see if there's a wear indicator on the rims.
Edited by bigandclever on Sunday 14th June 19:51
bigandclever said:
Darkslider said:
You've got a 2002 bike with 15 year old wheels?
My maths isn't brilliant, but even I can work out your wheels should be seven years old, not 15.
Erm... oh yeah My maths isn't brilliant, but even I can work out your wheels should be seven years old, not 15.
I shall take a look and see if there's a wear indicator on the rims.
Edited by bigandclever on Sunday 14th June 19:51
For the type of use you need them for I'd imagine the cheapest Shimano Deore wheelset on Chain Reaction would do you fine. There is a custom wheel builder you can use for an idea of prices.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx...
It's quite easy to spend a hundred quid on a decent pair of wheels however.
to be honest the forks would be my first concern. they will be old, heavy and unresponsive. they will badly affect on-road steering and have only basic control (damping and rebound).
you are probably better getting a new frame and forks and chucking the old components on to that.
as an aside, if its a commuter it will firstly get caked in all kinds of crap from the roads, and secondly require far more frequent maintenance than a regular mtb. thus buy things that are going to help keep it reliable and light rather than looking cool and bling.
you are probably better getting a new frame and forks and chucking the old components on to that.
as an aside, if its a commuter it will firstly get caked in all kinds of crap from the roads, and secondly require far more frequent maintenance than a regular mtb. thus buy things that are going to help keep it reliable and light rather than looking cool and bling.
I'm not sure what state your wheels are in but if they are OK, I'd start with the following:
i) Replace the forks with a pair of rigid light ali ones (e.g. Onza Flyguy)
ii) Replace the triple rings up front with a single 38t chainring (you will also need to change the chainring bolts to shallow ones specifically for a single ring and position it in the place your middle chainring). With an 11-34t cassette at the back you still get a good broad range of gears suitable for undulating roads and bridleways and you can lose the front mech and trigger shifter.
iii) Pair of light, folding semi slick tyres such as WTB Vulpine Race (high volume for comfort & still OK for light offroad) or WTB Slickasaurus for pure urban riding - www.wiggle.co.uk
The brakes should be fine if you just replace the pads and cables (if you need to)
For around £120 you can shed 5lb in weight and have much sharper steering and handling.
i) Replace the forks with a pair of rigid light ali ones (e.g. Onza Flyguy)
ii) Replace the triple rings up front with a single 38t chainring (you will also need to change the chainring bolts to shallow ones specifically for a single ring and position it in the place your middle chainring). With an 11-34t cassette at the back you still get a good broad range of gears suitable for undulating roads and bridleways and you can lose the front mech and trigger shifter.
iii) Pair of light, folding semi slick tyres such as WTB Vulpine Race (high volume for comfort & still OK for light offroad) or WTB Slickasaurus for pure urban riding - www.wiggle.co.uk
The brakes should be fine if you just replace the pads and cables (if you need to)
For around £120 you can shed 5lb in weight and have much sharper steering and handling.
Edited by Roman on Monday 15th June 10:34
Henry Hawthorne said:
Cotic Roadhog rigid fork (it will make it MUCH easier to ride on the road - you won't believe it). £55 from Cotic.co.uk
Avid Ball Bearing 7 mechanical disc. £60 each from CRC.
Mavic Open Pro rims + whichever wheel build you choose from Merlin or CRC.
Job's a good'un.
Don't bother with mechanical discs. All the drawbacks of cable V brakes and hydraulic discs with none of the benefits. Avid Ball Bearing 7 mechanical disc. £60 each from CRC.
Mavic Open Pro rims + whichever wheel build you choose from Merlin or CRC.
Job's a good'un.
When you can get Hayes HFX hydraulic discs for £36 each off chain reaction it's a no brainer really.
Thankyou all for your input, it's appreciated.
But here's the rub.... if I were to take a synopsis of all the thoughts, I'd be changing the frame (OK, only one vote for that!), forks, wheels, tyres, drivetrain and brakes. So far, the saddle and bars haven't been pointed at And there's the source of my confusion. I'm genuinely wanting to re-use an old bike but, in the back of my mind, am I barking up the wrong tree?
FWIW Until recently I commuted 10 miles each way on my bouncy Meta 5.5, so I understand it's never cut and dried.
But here's the rub.... if I were to take a synopsis of all the thoughts, I'd be changing the frame (OK, only one vote for that!), forks, wheels, tyres, drivetrain and brakes. So far, the saddle and bars haven't been pointed at
And there's the source of my confusion. I'm genuinely wanting to re-use an old bike but, in the back of my mind, am I barking up the wrong tree? FWIW Until recently I commuted 10 miles each way on my bouncy Meta 5.5, so I understand it's never cut and dried.
Darkslider said:
Henry Hawthorne said:
Cotic Roadhog rigid fork (it will make it MUCH easier to ride on the road - you won't believe it). £55 from Cotic.co.uk
Avid Ball Bearing 7 mechanical disc. £60 each from CRC.
Mavic Open Pro rims + whichever wheel build you choose from Merlin or CRC.
Job's a good'un.
Don't bother with mechanical discs. All the drawbacks of cable V brakes and hydraulic discs with none of the benefits. Avid Ball Bearing 7 mechanical disc. £60 each from CRC.
Mavic Open Pro rims + whichever wheel build you choose from Merlin or CRC.
Job's a good'un.
When you can get Hayes HFX hydraulic discs for £36 each off chain reaction it's a no brainer really.
Personally I'd get Juicy 3s for £60.
And as for "none of the benefits" that's not exactly true...
I think you would feel most of the benefits just with new tyres and light rigid forks to be honest.
Though you don't need to, if you don't live in a very hilly area, I find switching to 9 speed is a very cheap way of losing a pound in weight (crucially a third of it rotating mass). Many people don't actually use anything like 27 gears for their riding unless cycling up very steep hills. You may find you have a suitable and adequate gear range just by keeping one of your current 32t or 42t chainrings as opposed to my compromise of 38t.
It's impossible to tell if you really need new wheels or brakes without seeing the bike but as others have said Merlin & CRC are great for good budget wheels.
If you are going to buy new forks, wheels and brakes anyway you may as well upgrade to hydraulic discs for those prices, otherwise I don't think it is worth the cost for a commuter/towpath bike.
In fact, if it is going to cost over £150 I would just sell your bike 'as is' for £150-200 and get yourself a brand new Sirrus (I upgraded one as a 'do it all' bike and it's great). Bargain:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?...
Though you don't need to, if you don't live in a very hilly area, I find switching to 9 speed is a very cheap way of losing a pound in weight (crucially a third of it rotating mass). Many people don't actually use anything like 27 gears for their riding unless cycling up very steep hills. You may find you have a suitable and adequate gear range just by keeping one of your current 32t or 42t chainrings as opposed to my compromise of 38t.
It's impossible to tell if you really need new wheels or brakes without seeing the bike but as others have said Merlin & CRC are great for good budget wheels.
If you are going to buy new forks, wheels and brakes anyway you may as well upgrade to hydraulic discs for those prices, otherwise I don't think it is worth the cost for a commuter/towpath bike.
In fact, if it is going to cost over £150 I would just sell your bike 'as is' for £150-200 and get yourself a brand new Sirrus (I upgraded one as a 'do it all' bike and it's great). Bargain:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?...
Edited by Roman on Tuesday 16th June 12:14
bigandclever said:
Thankyou all for your input, it's appreciated.
But here's the rub.... if I were to take a synopsis of all the thoughts, I'd be changing the frame (OK, only one vote for that!), forks, wheels, tyres, drivetrain and brakes. So far, the saddle and bars haven't been pointed at And there's the source of my confusion. I'm genuinely wanting to re-use an old bike but, in the back of my mind, am I barking up the wrong tree?
FWIW Until recently I commuted 10 miles each way on my bouncy Meta 5.5, so I understand it's never cut and dried.
I posted up a thread about me wanting to create a modern version of the old Raleigh Record Sprint out of a brand new frame and old bits. Well, after working out it was going to cost me several hundred pounds to get around the fact that the old bike is a 7 speed tube shifter, I gave in and spent £400 on a complete campag groupset with wheels, which was on offer due to it being an 08 spec.But here's the rub.... if I were to take a synopsis of all the thoughts, I'd be changing the frame (OK, only one vote for that!), forks, wheels, tyres, drivetrain and brakes. So far, the saddle and bars haven't been pointed at
And there's the source of my confusion. I'm genuinely wanting to re-use an old bike but, in the back of my mind, am I barking up the wrong tree? FWIW Until recently I commuted 10 miles each way on my bouncy Meta 5.5, so I understand it's never cut and dried.
Some times it's just easier to buy a new bike
So far with new tyres etc, it's cost me around £600. For this I could have bought a new 08 or 07 stock bike in it's entirety. The only bits I've managed to salvage have been the seat-post, clamp, and saddle. And some gold chain ring bolts of another bike.The gradual upgrade path is a slippery slope.
The Road Hog forks will be a touch short for the OP's bike. They have a 400mm A-C height. Replacing the suspension fork with a rigid fork is certainly a good idea. Just get the right A-C height. If your current fork has 80mm travel then I'd say you'll need a fork with an A-C height of 425mm.
Brakes. A 'V' brake on the rear would be more than adequate. If you change the fronk forks then you can fit a cable disc brake up front. I'd only reccommend an Avid BB-7. It shames alot of hydraulic brakes and means you can keep the same brake levers.
New wheels. Well that's hard. I'd say that Shimano Deore hubs would do you fine as they're easy to service and very smooth. Downsides are that the threads on the axles chew into frame matterial. If you get dics hubs then you can keep the wheels should you decide to upgrade the frame. Rims - assuming you want to stay with 26-inch - Mavic 321's are robust and come in 'V' and 'Disc only' versions. I run Hope hubs on all my bikes except my Commuter, that has XT.
Other than that, tyres there are loads of mtb road tyres to choose from. Mudguards, I think they're invaluable on a commuter as is a pannier rack. Gears. My commuter is a single speed but that's because I was only using two or three gears on my 13-mile commute. What's the commute / what sort of road riding will you be doing on the bike? It might be worth sourcing a Shimano Alfine or Nexus geared hub. Heavy, but a good spread of gears.
Once you start looking at all these would it not be better / cheaper / easier just to buy a new bike?
Here's my mtb based commuter / tourer.
But it cost me
Brakes. A 'V' brake on the rear would be more than adequate. If you change the fronk forks then you can fit a cable disc brake up front. I'd only reccommend an Avid BB-7. It shames alot of hydraulic brakes and means you can keep the same brake levers.
New wheels. Well that's hard. I'd say that Shimano Deore hubs would do you fine as they're easy to service and very smooth. Downsides are that the threads on the axles chew into frame matterial. If you get dics hubs then you can keep the wheels should you decide to upgrade the frame. Rims - assuming you want to stay with 26-inch - Mavic 321's are robust and come in 'V' and 'Disc only' versions. I run Hope hubs on all my bikes except my Commuter, that has XT.
Other than that, tyres there are loads of mtb road tyres to choose from. Mudguards, I think they're invaluable on a commuter as is a pannier rack. Gears. My commuter is a single speed but that's because I was only using two or three gears on my 13-mile commute. What's the commute / what sort of road riding will you be doing on the bike? It might be worth sourcing a Shimano Alfine or Nexus geared hub. Heavy, but a good spread of gears.
Once you start looking at all these would it not be better / cheaper / easier just to buy a new bike?
Here's my mtb based commuter / tourer.
But it cost me
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