Sump Gasket replacement

[daveb500]

I put a post up a couple of days ago about the sump bung washer (thanks for all the responses on that one)....but it is actually the gasket that is leaking, just above the bung (it's so difficult to tell without a pit or ramp). I'm off on a European trip in a couple of weeks so would quite like to get it done. Again, is it a standard LR gasket and is it simple to replace? I know they have a tendency to leak so any good tips? Am I going to end up with the same leak?

I've got a local garage just round the corner from my house with a good mechanic so might get them to replace it if there are no "TVR" complications. Could stick some nice fresh oil in too at the same time.

[TVR Beaver]

Dead easy job... Just unscrew and drop it down (obviously take the oil out first)... But mine didn't have a gasket.. and I think most of them don't... You can fit one I'm sure as it's a std LR part.. but I put mine back with Loctite 5900....
It was leaking before, but not a drip now!.. great stuff and made for sealing sumps / flange's with no gasketts!
On a ramp it will take about 1 hour start to finish.... If you use the Loctite.. make sure both surfaces are 100% clean (no oil film)... I left mine overnight for the last drip's to come out of the block into the sump.. then did it by clearing round with pre-pain to get everything off....
Don't overtightern the bolts on re-fit.. you can strip them easy... Cheers...

[daveb500]

Great - thanks, very helpful

Just thought of one question - I've read about people having to prime the oil pump if left empty for too long.....how long is too long?

Edited by daveb500 on Friday 19th June 12:48

[TVR Beaver]

Is it a Serp engine?.. If so and your not changing the filter (if you do pre-fill it with oil) and get it back on quick.. It should not loose too much oil from the pump...
The serp pump will self prime anyway.. but best to take out the plugs, disconnect the coil and turn it over on the key to ensure you get pressure...
I left mine 2 months without oil and it took about 30 sec's on the key to get pressure again!..
Just do it as quick as you can!!

[daveb500]

Yes it is a Serp Engine. Just doing a quick search for Loctite 5900 and it doesn't seem to be that easy to find.

[TVR Beaver]

Try Buck and Hickman in Chelternham.. they had it .. phone [phone] I think...
If not try contact Loctite and ask who localy stocks it...

[TVR Beaver]

Cancel that.. they don't have it.. Erric's in Gloucester is a stockist.. They don't have it in.. but can get it for Monday... Or they have it at their distribution place J3 off the M5... The GL number is 01452 522265... Hope that helps...

[daveb500]

Thanks very much - in does in deed

[TVR Beaver]

If you go for the Loctite stuff.. You need to put a 3 to 4 mm bead around the sump flange (after preping both surfaces)... Make sure oil does not run down the inside of the block and get on the bottom face as your doing this!!... All this needs to be done in a 5 min working window and then get the sump on... If you do it right you will never have a leak again!!.. Remember to go both sides (around) of the bolt holes....
You may need a practice run first as this stuff starts to skin up after 5 mins so you need to be quick and ensure you follow and comply with the instructions fully...
Good luck...!!!

Edited by TVR Beaver on Friday 19th June 14:01

[Del 203]

TVR Beaver said:

I put mine back with Loctite 5900....

I use 598

[TVR Beaver]

I think there is a new one also now.. but we deal a lot with Loctite and I asked them for their recommendations when I did mine... .They said 5900 so I used it.. top result... (and a free sample tube to testing purposes).... Could not refuse....
But it is for sure the right stuff to use!!

[daveb500]

I've got some 5900 on order - should be here Monday.

[Moto]

When my cam got a bit noisy and was replaced after very low milage, the reason I had been given for the failure was that "liquid gasket" had been used when sealing the sump, had squidged into the sump when being tightened and blocked the oil pick up mesh restricting oil feed around the engine. Of course this may not have been the cause but it made sense and did make me wonder if it's a common problem.

[marks3drtaz]

The best i have found for sump sealant is "Volkswagen Oil Pan Sealant" from any vw parts department. The stuff is white and will not separate i have removed the sump twice since using and have not had a single drop leak in 2000 miles and most importantly not 1 bit in the pick up, When silicon has been used you would usually find the odd bit in the strainer the part number is d176 404 a2 not the cheapest at 13.60 + vat !! but its cost price is 7.45 + Vat so haggle.

Mark

[andyy]

Agree with Mark
The VW stuff works very well
A tip for applying it so that you dont get too much on the flange which could then fall into the sump is to use a syringe - no needle !!
These are available from almost anywhere - used for giving medicine to babies

Cheers Andy

[daveb500]

Did the sump gasket at the weekend using loctite 5900 and put in a Steve Heath sump bung for good measure. And I am happy to say that for the first time, I have got an oil free garage floor.



And I picked out a load of sealant from the oil pick-up as well so it was well worth the effort and mess.

[TVR Beaver]

Top job mate.. and be assured it won't find it's way into the mesh.. it stops where it's put assuming you've done the 3-4mm bead.... even if you've put a bit more on ..it dries firm but will not go brittle....
I know it's not the cheapest.. but it's always worked for me and my company....

[Barreti]

andyy said:

A tip for applying it so that you dont get too much on the flange which could then fall into the sump is to use a syringe - no needle !!
These are available from almost anywhere - used for giving medicine to babies

Cheers Andy

I have a load of small syringes which would do this job (strange how you 'acquire' things isn't it)
Yell if you want a couple and I'll bring some to the growl