Nitron damper settings ?
Discussion
Think you should always set these from full hard not full soft. The full hard is a reference point with the valve closed, full soft is rather vague as some will have more click than others.
With 75 lbs stiffer springs than standard I use 4 from hard on the front and 8 on the rear, in the dry with slicks on. If it is damp with slicks I soften them both two clicks. With road tyres it is 10 on the front and 12 at the rear softer still if it is very wet. The exception is when you have a passenger and they have a trifle on their lap in which case a fair bit softer.
I understand why you are asking but it really is down to personal taste and you need to try it out.
Find yourself a nice tight but quiet and not entirely flat round about, keep going round it until you get over or under steer, you can then adjust the balance. Softer generally means more grip but less control so if you have under steer soften the front or harden the rear. If you have over steer harden the front of soften the rear.
Don’t take it that I am expert, but that is the way I did it. Plainly you can only do that with the slicks on a "private" roundabout but you can get the balance point on the road.
With 75 lbs stiffer springs than standard I use 4 from hard on the front and 8 on the rear, in the dry with slicks on. If it is damp with slicks I soften them both two clicks. With road tyres it is 10 on the front and 12 at the rear softer still if it is very wet. The exception is when you have a passenger and they have a trifle on their lap in which case a fair bit softer.
I understand why you are asking but it really is down to personal taste and you need to try it out.
Find yourself a nice tight but quiet and not entirely flat round about, keep going round it until you get over or under steer, you can then adjust the balance. Softer generally means more grip but less control so if you have under steer soften the front or harden the rear. If you have over steer harden the front of soften the rear.
Don’t take it that I am expert, but that is the way I did it. Plainly you can only do that with the slicks on a "private" roundabout but you can get the balance point on the road.
steve-V8s said:
Think you should always set these from full hard not full soft. The full hard is a reference point with the valve closed, full soft is rather vague as some will have more click than others.
With 75 lbs stiffer springs than standard I use 4 from hard on the front and 8 on the rear, in the dry with slicks on. If it is damp with slicks I soften them both two clicks. With road tyres it is 10 on the front and 12 at the rear softer still if it is very wet. The exception is when you have a passenger and they have a trifle on their lap in which case a fair bit softer.
I understand why you are asking but it really is down to personal taste and you need to try it out.
Find yourself a nice tight but quiet and not entirely flat round about, keep going round it until you get over or under steer, you can then adjust the balance. Softer generally means more grip but less control so if you have under steer soften the front or harden the rear. If you have over steer harden the front of soften the rear.
Don’t take it that I am expert, but that is the way I did it. Plainly you can only do that with the slicks on a "private" roundabout but you can get the balance point on the road.
Thanks for the advice, I assumed all nitrons would have the same internals/clicks though.....i will find a quiet car park as my nearest roundabout is 13 miles away!!With 75 lbs stiffer springs than standard I use 4 from hard on the front and 8 on the rear, in the dry with slicks on. If it is damp with slicks I soften them both two clicks. With road tyres it is 10 on the front and 12 at the rear softer still if it is very wet. The exception is when you have a passenger and they have a trifle on their lap in which case a fair bit softer.
I understand why you are asking but it really is down to personal taste and you need to try it out.
Find yourself a nice tight but quiet and not entirely flat round about, keep going round it until you get over or under steer, you can then adjust the balance. Softer generally means more grip but less control so if you have under steer soften the front or harden the rear. If you have over steer harden the front of soften the rear.
Don’t take it that I am expert, but that is the way I did it. Plainly you can only do that with the slicks on a "private" roundabout but you can get the balance point on the road.
sandy
Edited by RFC1 on Friday 26th June 16:50
RFC1 said:
I finally got the car out for a 20 mile thrash this afternoon, 1st try of my new Nitrons, feels good. Just as a point of interest what damper settings do other nitron users use front and rear ? ie how many clicks from soft/hard do you all use??
cheers Sandy
My Track day settings.cheers Sandy
Front RH 105mm SR 600 DS 18
Rear RH 120mm SR 450 DS 14
I lift the car 20mm for road and Ring, and drop DS to 16f 13r.
Give the new dampers/springs 100 mile to settle then set up.
Hello!
Mark from Nitron, here. All shocks should be set from the FULL HARD (or clockwise) position.
This is because we dyno the shocks and match them at this position. Physically, it works from where the needle/jet systems is fully closed on all four corners to ensure each shock is perfectly matched.
Any more info, please feel free to ask; otherwise our website will be updated constantly to improve upon the setup/handling information available.
thanks!
Mark from Nitron, here. All shocks should be set from the FULL HARD (or clockwise) position.
This is because we dyno the shocks and match them at this position. Physically, it works from where the needle/jet systems is fully closed on all four corners to ensure each shock is perfectly matched.
Any more info, please feel free to ask; otherwise our website will be updated constantly to improve upon the setup/handling information available.
thanks!
mtapscott said:
Hello!
Mark from Nitron, here. All shocks should be set from the FULL HARD (or clockwise) position.
This is because we dyno the shocks and match them at this position. Physically, it works from where the needle/jet systems is fully closed on all four corners to ensure each shock is perfectly matched.
Any more info, please feel free to ask; otherwise our website will be updated constantly to improve upon the setup/handling information available.
thanks!
Sorry for the hijack OP, but a question to Mark - i need new dampers, but can't afford Nitron, so will go the "budget" route, however a mid range alternative might be possible, so will Racing Reds return?Mark from Nitron, here. All shocks should be set from the FULL HARD (or clockwise) position.
This is because we dyno the shocks and match them at this position. Physically, it works from where the needle/jet systems is fully closed on all four corners to ensure each shock is perfectly matched.
Any more info, please feel free to ask; otherwise our website will be updated constantly to improve upon the setup/handling information available.
thanks!
Thanks
Bob
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