Do waterproof wedges exist?

[Transmitter Man]

I seem to have way too much water coming into the car when either raining or pressure washing and I'd like to try and tackle it.

First, the weatherstrip that's fitted to the leading edge of the foldup roof. The part which is supposed to mate with the rear of the door glass kidd of looks like it's stuck on.

What's the dealer here?

Has anyone found a good replacement and from where as mine has seen better days.

Finally, I have a rather large gap between out edge of the door and the glass. There is a trim that runs along the top of each door but no rubber with felt on the back to seal this gap.

Any ideas / photo's of what you've done?

I was to busy talking at BBWF to make a note of what others have done to their cars.

Phil
420 SEAC

[jmorgan]

Mine is bone dry, (I kid you not doubters ).

Anyway, lid, must be proofed (as must the rear section). It needs to have a decent run off when wet otherwise osmosis (or some other magic malarkey) soaks the fabric and it will store water and weep it into the car, even around the front and rear of the lid. So try to deal with the rear section when proofing that as well. Thompsons brick sealer does this a treat but stinks to high heaven. Not used any others so someone else will have to recommend them. Its the sealer that says it does ground sheets etc.

Follow the water channel down the rear section and there should be two flaps that should pop over the seal when the rear is up and door shuts. The top of the door nips it. I did have a picture somewhere but that flap helps to channel the water outside the door seal and not inside. Both sides.

Should any water get inside the seal it will spill into the footwell, on mine there are two cut outs in the door seal at the bottom around one inch or so from the bend where it goes from vertical to horizontal. Obviously any cutting you do and badger it, not my fault etc........

Gaps. Last Wedge had a gap so I replaced the whole seal, that is from the rear by the seat belt swivel all the way around to the other. That improved things but I did check the door was shutting right first.

Dig out some piccies of the flap when I can.


Edit. Pressure wash a soft top?

Double edit, fudgnuts, not sure if the lid arrangement and doors is the same on a 400 and SEAC?

Edited by jmorgan on Monday 29th June 09:22

Edited by jmorgan on Monday 29th June 09:24

[rev-erend]

I hate to say the word never .. but NEVER pressure wash any TVR. Wedge or otherwise. Same goes for car wash machines.

Thompsons water seal and Graingers tent canvas water proofers are good.. won't stop the rubbers leaking though.

Edited by rev-erend on Monday 29th June 15:39

[gsx600]

When I get mine washed I take it to the local Polish hand car wash, and hop out of the car whilst they use the presure washer

Under normal torrential downpours it seems to be fairly leak proof, but water does gradually gather in the footwell, hence why I have no footwell carpets and just an over mat that I can remove to dry when needed

Not yet done a waterproofer over the roof (in 5 years !)but could probably do with it. As for the aforementioned flaps, if you don't use it you'll find the floor behind the seats does get wet, but this flap sometimes gets bent upwards and you may not realize you have this flap at bottom of hood

[red tasman]

Hi, mine used to leak into footwell, water was running down the front of the door and over the seal on top of the sills. I was advised to cut a V into the seal just back from the front edge to enable the water to drain to the outside and not the inside of the car. If it is coming in here you may have a tell-tale water mark on the carpet, or a small puddle of water resting on the seal when you open the door. Check also the bulkhead grommets and the drain holes in the door bottoms.

[Transmitter Man]

Some photo's fella's would be appreciated?

Can anyone recommend a source for an easy to fit outside of the door glass window sealing rubber extrusion?

Al,

Why not pressure-wash the car, 'wide' spread, pressure not to high and not to close?

Professional detailer up at the BBWF used a pressure washer to rinse the car prior to foam lance then further pressure-wash rinse off.

All my electrics are solid connections with WD40 over everything.

TVR's no different than any other car, one just takes the fibreglass body into consideration as I'm more than aware you can cut with water!

Phil
420 SEAC

[jmorgan]

Sorry for the delay. Had to dig it out of the archive.
One flap. Draped over the door for the piccy but should be inside. The flap is I think attached to the rear section so moves with it.


And one cut out in the bottom. One to the front of the door and one to the rear.

[jmorgan]

Rubber sections are available from....
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

[Wedg1e]

They're not exactly huge cars, how long does it take to hand wash?

I've never found a pressure washer that shifted everything anyway. Even my last company van got washed by hand for the 5 years I had it.

Apart from anything else it means you can spot things that are not quite right as you go around the car. Bit difficult when you're squinting from the splashback of a lance.

ETA: neither of my Wedges has ever been watertight. I didn't expect it and I don't waste time chasing the leaks. Think of a Wedge as a 4-wheeled motorcycle and you soon find it easy to live with

Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 29th June 23:20

[jmorgan]

Must admit I am of the hand job...... I mean by hand method for the nicks and scratches search. I do it to all the cars. Then the arguments start as to who hit the bollard......

[Transmitter Man]

Thanks for the feedback and links.

Yes, heard of Woolies.

I think a drive up to Peterborough is in order to make sure I find the best fit stuff before I buy.

The whole car needs a re-fit of extrusion!

Thanks.

Phil

[leorest]

Transmitter Man said:

Thanks for the feedback and links.

Yes, heard of Woolies.

I think a drive up to Peterborough is in order to make sure I find the best fit stuff before I buy.

The whole car needs a re-fit of extrusion!

Thanks.

Phil

If you keep a list of what you find is required to replace all the seals I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to say a big thank you.

[Wedg1e]

Paul Beck's Vintage Supplies, somewhere in deepest Norfurk (North Walsham?) stock a wide range of rubbers (ooer missus); last time I checked they were cheaper than Woolies and that place in London (Edgware?), too.

ETA: Norwich, apparently:

http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/list+rubber+an...

Edited by Wedg1e on Friday 3rd July 00:17

[Transmitter Man]

Leo,

I just came across this place: http://www.classiccar-trim.com/

My way doing these kind of jobs is to turn up with the car and drag the guvnor out and say, 'there's the car' can you sort me out a set of rubbers (no pun intended)

I have yet to take the door panel off to see if there's any adjustment on the gap between the door glass and the outer edge of the top of the door as my gap seems kind of wide and I cannot imaging a window seal doing a proper job.

I've just asked Tim at ACT to order me a new alloy rad + cowling + Spal fan, the higher output one not the micky mouse version, which are of course just for wusse's.

Phil
420 SEAC