drive shaft flange for 3000M with Salisbury diff
Discussion
brittanytvr said:
Hi,
a friend has a badly damaged flange on his 3000M with salisbury diff
( see the old parts on the pic), he has tried a TR6 one but it is not the correct part, do you know the provenance??Jaguar or something like that or Triumph 2000???
if you can help, thanks in advance.
Chris

Chris,a friend has a badly damaged flange on his 3000M with salisbury diff
( see the old parts on the pic), he has tried a TR6 one but it is not the correct part, do you know the provenance??Jaguar or something like that or Triumph 2000???
if you can help, thanks in advance.
Chris

I bought some hubs from a chap last week for my 3000M. He still has a new set of drive shafts (to mate with Salisbury) they are new old stock. I think they could be had for around 300GBP if you're interseted
I think if you measure a flange yoke you will be able to find it on a drive shaft site as a standard size flange. There is probably a drive shaft shop near you that can source it from the dimensions. Make sure you buy proper forged units to get the right strength. I seem to remember hearing about some cheap cast units that were not strong enough. Spicer probably makes or distributes them among others. I think they invented flange yokes! They are probably to an SAE, BS or DIN standard.
Here is a confusing link to DANA who own Salisbury. http://www.dana.com/Automotive_Systems/Products/Au...
If you come up with a part number please let us know. I have one that has slightly opened up on one of the bearing holes and I replaced it with a rather old battered one.
Anyone know any good flange yokes?
Here is a confusing link to DANA who own Salisbury. http://www.dana.com/Automotive_Systems/Products/Au...
If you come up with a part number please let us know. I have one that has slightly opened up on one of the bearing holes and I replaced it with a rather old battered one.
Anyone know any good flange yokes?

I am also looking for these female flange yokes. I have worked out that they are a Spicer 1350 flange with Spicer 1310 ears (that the U/J, Spicer 5-160X, fits into). I have found a modern cast male yoke that looks really weak but I have not yet found a female forged version. My next lead was going to be to see if the Triumph diff cars used the same part as I have a couple of spare Triumph half shafts. My local Spicer dealer says that he cannot order from Spicer as the part is no longer in their catalogue.
I would guess that Jaguars with outboard brakes would use the same flange yokes but I have not yet established this. Any Jag experts that can help here?
A part number would help.
My problem is that I have elongated ears
which gives some play in the inner U/J which is gradually getting worse.
I would guess that Jaguars with outboard brakes would use the same flange yokes but I have not yet established this. Any Jag experts that can help here?
A part number would help.
My problem is that I have elongated ears

The flange yoke is a TVR special piece and acts as an adapter from the larger Jaguar flanges to the smaller U/J's that fit the Triumph 2000 drive shafts. I am seeing if I can get mine restored as my ears have slightly elongated. New ones are only available with the shafts. (Please prove me wrong on this). Binding of the half shaft splines seems to be the thing that damages the U/J's when the car squats down under acceleration. Make sure you grease your splines very frequently.
It may be possible to add some metal inside the ears and then rebore and I am trying this route at present.
I have yet to find any advantages in life for someone with elongated ears.
It may be possible to add some metal inside the ears and then rebore and I am trying this route at present.
I have yet to find any advantages in life for someone with elongated ears.
Making a long story even longer.
I have taken my flange in for the ears to be internally hard chrome plated and ground back to size to receive the U/J cups. Cost is about $175 CDN. Chroming company did not see any difficulty. I will report again when I know if this is a good solution or not.
I have taken my flange in for the ears to be internally hard chrome plated and ground back to size to receive the U/J cups. Cost is about $175 CDN. Chroming company did not see any difficulty. I will report again when I know if this is a good solution or not.
Finally got the flange back from chroming. Cost $275 instead of $175 and they said that the next one will cost just as much. Difficult set up for the grinding apparently..... Once it is on the car and has had some hard use I will report if there are any problems with this method of repair. Having a big torquey V8 is probably why I am seeing problems but binding of the splines in the half shafts is what shifts the forces to the flanges, U/Js and hub bearings.
If you want to take precise measurements of the part, I'd be happy to do some drawings for you guys(gratis). Maybe you can have a batch of them machined in a nice grade of steel (4340CrMo) for a sensible price. At least we'll have the part recorded in 3D on computer file.
What do the Griffith 200/400 cars use?
Alternately, would it be possible to use a Jaguar flange and machine adapters to fit the Triumph UJ into them? In my mind they would look like little caps that fit over the UJ and would have to be hardened and very tight tolerances.
B
What do the Griffith 200/400 cars use?
Alternately, would it be possible to use a Jaguar flange and machine adapters to fit the Triumph UJ into them? In my mind they would look like little caps that fit over the UJ and would have to be hardened and very tight tolerances.
B
Edited by Slow M on Monday 12th April 18:12
Not much success with hard chroming my flange. When it first came back from chroming to build up the inside diameters where the UJ cups go they had overground the bores to a rattle fit. Second time they chromed and ground the bores they got the diameters perfect but ground out the circlip groove at an angle so it is much too tight. I have given up on this flange at present but might take it back for the groove to be recut at some time.
The technique can be used to bring a flange back to proper dimensions but it is a tricky job for the chromer and easy for them to get wrong. (or, at least, it was easy for my hard chrome shop to get wrong)
The technique can be used to bring a flange back to proper dimensions but it is a tricky job for the chromer and easy for them to get wrong. (or, at least, it was easy for my hard chrome shop to get wrong)
pumpkin said:
Not much success with hard chroming my flange. When it first came back from chroming to build up the inside diameters where the UJ cups go they had overground the bores to a rattle fit. Second time they chromed and ground the bores they got the diameters perfect but ground out the circlip groove at an angle so it is much too tight. I have given up on this flange at present but might take it back for the groove to be recut at some time.
The technique can be used to bring a flange back to proper dimensions but it is a tricky job for the chromer and easy for them to get wrong. (or, at least, it was easy for my hard chrome shop to get wrong)
In addition, there is the issue of hydrogen embrittlement to consider. Considering proximity of the potentially flailing axle shaft to the occupants' backs, I'd think of this as a safety concern. The technique can be used to bring a flange back to proper dimensions but it is a tricky job for the chromer and easy for them to get wrong. (or, at least, it was easy for my hard chrome shop to get wrong)
While I don't have AutoCAD on my current machine, I plan a new install at some point in the future. I suspect having this yoke cut from a piece of 4340 would, by now, have been a similar investment and outlast the car many times over.
Offer's still open but now it'll take me a while to do.
B.
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