Slowwwwww Windows.....

[moschops_72]

OK, what do i need to do/clean (and how), if i want my electric windows to go faster, preferably faster than the current dried up snail speed that it seems to be at?

Jeff

[shnozz]

they all do that Sir. Can try some silicon spray but to be honest it will make no difference at all. My S3 was the same too, could dry out the interior in the time it took the window to go up/down.

[david beer]

Measure the voltage at the motor, my griff was seeing 9v, now its got 12v and they fly up.

[AlexH]

Same on my Griff on drivers side only (passenger side is fine), but I have noticed that the rubber in the door that the front edge of the window runs in is a bit knackered, with a few bits coming off it. They are about halfway down, and after the window passes them its fine. Have a look at yours, as I suspect sorting this out would make a fair difference.

[ribol]

It is possible to have 12v but still not enough current to make the motor work properly. Rather than check the voltage I would connect a live/earth straight from the battery and compare the speed both ways. This would rule out any supply problems 100% if you suspect this may be your problem.

Ivan

[alans]

took the door panel off my griff last week, the window was not running in the runner guide rubber correctly. I removed the frame and re-alligned it, its now working fine. (sod of a job, still have the scratches on my arm)

[ATG]

ribol said:

It is possible to have 12v but still not enough current to make the motor work properly. Rather than check the voltage I would connect a live/earth straight from the battery and compare the speed both ways. This would rule out any supply problems 100% if you suspect this may be your problem. Ivan

Mr Beer will have meant that he was only getting 9V across the window's motor was running. That would have meant that 3 or more volts was getting dropped across the wiring between the motor an the alternator/battery ... i.e. the wiring was inadequate.

[simpo two]

ATG said:

ribol said: It is possible to have 12v but still not enough current to make the motor work properly. Rather than check the voltage I would connect a live/earth straight from the battery and compare the speed both ways. This would rule out any supply problems 100% if you suspect this may be your problem. Ivan And of course there wouldn't be an easy way to change this wiring...? Or is it just the connectors that need cleaning? Mr Beer will have meant that he was only getting 9V across the window's motor was running. That would have meant that 3 or more volts was getting dropped across the wiring between the motor an the alternator/battery ... i.e. the wiring was inadequate.

[ribol]

ATG said:

Mr Beer will have meant that he was only getting 9V across the window's motor was running. That would have meant that 3 or more volts was getting dropped across the wiring between the motor an the alternator/battery ... i.e. the wiring was inadequate.

The point is that, with respect, measuring the voltage as described is not a conclusive test and therefore not a very good way of fault finding. You could measure it, find 12v assume there is no wiring fault and run off to buy a new motor. If the supply of current available to the motor is low then it will run slowly even if there is 12v there.
The best way to check if there is a problem with any of the associated wiring is to eliminate it. By running the wires direct to the same power source all you have to do is compare the two speeds - no guess work involved.

Ivan

[k4trv]

ribol said:

The point is that, with respect, measuring the voltage as described is not a conclusive test and therefore not a very good way of fault finding. You could measure it, find 12v assume there is no wiring fault and run off to buy a new motor. If the supply of current available to the motor is low then it will run slowly even if there is 12v there. The best way to check if there is a problem with any of the associated wiring is to eliminate it. By running the wires direct to the same power source all you have to do is compare the two speeds - no guess work involved. Ivan

Agree with above. Also, if there was no voltage drop, motor would not be "working" !! Just accept that the window motor is OK, but it's doing too much work and hence is slow.

Believe you need to look else where in the window mechanism, the cable driving the window up and down. Has that any grease in it ?? I think you'll find that squirting some WD40 over the outer will help "soften" the hardened grease within and you'll see a difference.
A total overhaul will solve the problem - but is it worth it ?? Silicon on runners and WD40 on the cable/mechanisms will "speed" things up.

Trev McM

[david beer]

I was getting 9v across the motor and rewiring has given me back the 12v.So there was a 3v drop along the many metres of high spec TVR wire. Easy to do as you can do it at the plug just before it goes into the door, that wiring is up to it( i assume a Chimaera is the same, white four pin).A couple of relays and you are away, you will have to do + and -. I had been spraying silicon stuff on a regular basis to reduce friction, but this has cured mine.Other terms and conditions apply ! Mine may have been a one off.(nah)

>> Edited by david beer on Saturday 13th December 18:23

[philr]

I found that the rubber was getting rucked up on my driver side window and really slowing things down. I pulled it tight from the top, cut off about 2 inches and then stuck it back in place. Much better now....though still not as good as the passenger side.