around 115 degree...
Discussion
juts wondering about your ideas one this
today i was driving like 10 miles and the engine temp was close to 110 degree...
vans work ok. but just to be for sure i switched them on manually... temp not going down...
thought that probably the temp indicator was not working ok...
but anyway i checked if i was loosing water, no eveything seems to be fine. i filled the expansion tank about half a liter till the max from the book.
i just hope that the indicator is wrong cause at a certain moment, at traffic light, she was over 115 degree.
i just dont get it couse i am not loosing water and the vans work fine. on my way back i switched the vans on, manually, from the beginning. just to feel more relaxed but same storry...
and ideas?
thx
today i was driving like 10 miles and the engine temp was close to 110 degree...
vans work ok. but just to be for sure i switched them on manually... temp not going down...
thought that probably the temp indicator was not working ok...
but anyway i checked if i was loosing water, no eveything seems to be fine. i filled the expansion tank about half a liter till the max from the book.
i just hope that the indicator is wrong cause at a certain moment, at traffic light, she was over 115 degree.
i just dont get it couse i am not loosing water and the vans work fine. on my way back i switched the vans on, manually, from the beginning. just to feel more relaxed but same storry...
and ideas?
thx
Edited by ZCoupe on Saturday 4th July 20:55
al 350i said:
if you can't connect to the ecu you could always try re-routing the capillary pipe away from the exhaust manifold and any water pipes that it might have been cable tied too and see if the reading on the gauge is better, but be careful as they are very fragile and very long.
sounds like a good idea. did not think about that. but it might be that some of the pipes moved a bit and are now to close to the manifolds.before max temp was 95 degree never higer than that.
http://www.tvr-cerbera.co.uk/files/WorkshopManual/...
use that to get the air out...
and if that does not work guess you have to get your self a laptop. to see if the temp. indicator is right or not.
use that to get the air out...
and if that does not work guess you have to get your self a laptop. to see if the temp. indicator is right or not.
Dave 500 said:
ZCoupe said:
i am probably the only cerb owner without a laptop... have to get my self one.
Your Cerbs a long way from home too
what's it like getting it serviced over there. so far i happy with the service
funny thing is that last week all the problems with the temp. seemed to be over, after filling the water a bit... checking for air and so on.
But yesterday again very very hot about 105.
so enough water (no oil in it), and no mayonnaise on the dip stick, no air in cooling, vans switch on when gauge is at 90.
what do you think thermostat not ok??
But yesterday again very very hot about 105.
so enough water (no oil in it), and no mayonnaise on the dip stick, no air in cooling, vans switch on when gauge is at 90.
what do you think thermostat not ok??
Frank - It sounds like the cooling system may have an air lock, I recommend you bleed the system. Warm the engine up to make sure the thermostat is open, but don't get the engine hot.
Park the car on level ground.
Undo the Big nut on the Right hand side (UK Driver side) of the radiator.
Remove the top of the Expansion tank.
Top up the cooling system through the radiator.
Under the Air boxes on the water rails you will find 2 bleed nipples - they look like a big wing nut. Undo these and keep topping up until water is expelled.
Now put everything back together, and drive the car
The following should be quite humorous !
Frank - es klingt wie das Kühlsystem kann einen Luftverschluß haben, empfehle ich Sie blute das System. Wärmen Sie die Motor sicherstellen bis, dass der Thermostat geöffnet ist. Parken Sie das Auto auf waagerecht ausgerichtetem Boden. Annulieren Sie die große Nuss auf der rechten Seite (BRITISCHE Fahrerseite) des Heizkörpers. Entfernen Sie die Oberseite des Expansionsbehälters. Schichten Sie das Kühlsystem durch den Heizkörper auf. Unter den Luftkästen auf den Wasserschienen finden Sie 2 Blutnippel - sie sehen wie eine große Flügelnuß aus. Annulieren Sie diese und halten Sie aufzuschichten, bis Wasser weggetrieben ist. Fügen Sie jetzt alles zusammen, das, rückseitig ist und fahren Sie das Auto
Park the car on level ground.
Undo the Big nut on the Right hand side (UK Driver side) of the radiator.
Remove the top of the Expansion tank.
Top up the cooling system through the radiator.
Under the Air boxes on the water rails you will find 2 bleed nipples - they look like a big wing nut. Undo these and keep topping up until water is expelled.
Now put everything back together, and drive the car

The following should be quite humorous !
Frank - es klingt wie das Kühlsystem kann einen Luftverschluß haben, empfehle ich Sie blute das System. Wärmen Sie die Motor sicherstellen bis, dass der Thermostat geöffnet ist. Parken Sie das Auto auf waagerecht ausgerichtetem Boden. Annulieren Sie die große Nuss auf der rechten Seite (BRITISCHE Fahrerseite) des Heizkörpers. Entfernen Sie die Oberseite des Expansionsbehälters. Schichten Sie das Kühlsystem durch den Heizkörper auf. Unter den Luftkästen auf den Wasserschienen finden Sie 2 Blutnippel - sie sehen wie eine große Flügelnuß aus. Annulieren Sie diese und halten Sie aufzuschichten, bis Wasser weggetrieben ist. Fügen Sie jetzt alles zusammen, das, rückseitig ist und fahren Sie das Auto

Edited by JensenA on Sunday 9th August 10:39
somehow it did not solve the overheating problem.
when i opened the big nut from the radiator and the top of the expansion tank, water came out directly. when opening the bleed nipples on the water rails water came out as well.
guess that the thermostat is not working like it should or my radiator is not well...
thx
p.s. standing still at traffic light and revved a bit. made temp go down by 5 degree??? from 110 to 105.
first van kicks in at 90 degree on the gauge, can it still be possible that the gauge is not correct.
or not that likely ?
hx
when i opened the big nut from the radiator and the top of the expansion tank, water came out directly. when opening the bleed nipples on the water rails water came out as well.
guess that the thermostat is not working like it should or my radiator is not well...
thx
p.s. standing still at traffic light and revved a bit. made temp go down by 5 degree??? from 110 to 105.
first van kicks in at 90 degree on the gauge, can it still be possible that the gauge is not correct.
or not that likely ?
hx
Edited by ZCoupe on Saturday 15th August 09:03
The gauges do read high, by quite a bit. I hooked mine up to the laptop and it reads 15 dgrees high !
The gauge will read 80 on a run and anything between 90 and 110 in heavy traffic.
Remember also that when you look in the expansion tank, seeing water in the bottom does not necessarily mean it has anything in it, it should be filled to the seam, about 40mm from the top.
The gauge will read 80 on a run and anything between 90 and 110 in heavy traffic.
Remember also that when you look in the expansion tank, seeing water in the bottom does not necessarily mean it has anything in it, it should be filled to the seam, about 40mm from the top.
Think your gauges are probably okay. Even without a laptop you can check this.
The fans come on based on a seperate electronic gauge which is much more reliable than the capillary one.
The fans come on at 90 and 94 I think (someone correct those temps please) If your capillary gauge reads those figures at the time the fans come on then it is agreeing temperature with the electronic one.
The fans come on based on a seperate electronic gauge which is much more reliable than the capillary one.
The fans come on at 90 and 94 I think (someone correct those temps please) If your capillary gauge reads those figures at the time the fans come on then it is agreeing temperature with the electronic one.
julian64 said:
Think your gauges are probably okay. Even without a laptop you can check this.
The fans come on based on a seperate electronic gauge which is much more reliable than the capillary one.
The fans come on at 90 and 94 I think (someone correct those temps please) If your capillary gauge reads those figures at the time the fans come on then it is agreeing temperature with the electronic one.
yep, it agrees with the temperature, so guess time for a new thermostat and/or radiator.The fans come on based on a seperate electronic gauge which is much more reliable than the capillary one.
The fans come on at 90 and 94 I think (someone correct those temps please) If your capillary gauge reads those figures at the time the fans come on then it is agreeing temperature with the electronic one.
guess i will just change both to be sure.
thx
Edited by ZCoupe on Saturday 15th August 09:48
ZCoupe said:
p.s. standing still at traffic light and revved a bit. made temp go down by 5 degree??? from 110 to 105.
Perfectly normal. This is because when you rev the engine the water pump spins a bit faster increasing the flow of waterEdited by ZCoupe on Saturday 15th August 09:03
around the engine. The inference being that the pump spins a little too slowly at tickover.
Dave 500 said:
Not that you should take my advice as all cars are different but mine goes up to 105-110-115 in London all the time never had any problems yet. I don't trust the temp gauge at all so if temps up at 110+ and the oil pressures ok all is ok if your oil pressure drops panic 
oil pressure is fine and hopefully the rest as well.
but i will change the radiator and thermostat (perhaps even the senors) just to be sure.
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