Discussion
Not to scaremonger anyone, and I'm sure you've all had it set... good wheel alignment. Vipers are quite sensitive to correct toe setting. Reason for the post is this was most likely a contributory cause of a very serious accident on one it UK. I found the total rear toe-in to be six times beyond the correct setting specs. One of the rear wheels was toe-in so much it was trying to steer the rear end of the car out all the time. I don't know how it came to be like that, the rear toe link to frame is a weak spot and easily damaged if hit, but these areas were OK. If you're not sure take a quick look at your tire wear, if wearing too much on inside or outside?
been wanting to get this checked on my gen1 rt10.
new tyres recently fitted for run to le mans this year.
it was the first good run the car has been on.
was a little twitchy on occasions.
can anyone advise where to get the alignment checked please??...i am in midlands , near lichfield, staffordshire.
best regards
brian
new tyres recently fitted for run to le mans this year.
it was the first good run the car has been on.
was a little twitchy on occasions.
can anyone advise where to get the alignment checked please??...i am in midlands , near lichfield, staffordshire.
best regards
brian
mates place in Bromsgrove has done a few club vipers, SH Autos ask for Adrian http://www.shauto.co.uk/index.html he uses american equipment so the viper specs are pre-programmmed
my fairly new gen1 with low mileage at the time only had 3 of the 12 settings correct....it came out of his garage feeling like a go-cart, it takes a couple of hours to complete
my fairly new gen1 with low mileage at the time only had 3 of the 12 settings correct....it came out of his garage feeling like a go-cart, it takes a couple of hours to complete
So it wasn't just down to me being a shockingly bad driver then? ;-)
Seriously though, my car was very tail happy before the accident, always coming out on the right side. Not having driven any other Vipers, I thought that this was normal (as you're always told they're like this). Would seriously advise to get tracking checked out as you wouldn't like to go through what I (and Nad!) have.
Matty you need to measure at the frame, not body panels. Make sure tires obviously at correct pressures and floor flat, no luggage. Measure at the PLP (principle location point) its a round hole, underside of lower frame rails, between the lower suspension pick up points. For street car GenII's and III's the specs don't change a whole lot, from memory I think the III's run a fraction more static toe-in front and rear and about 0.2 deg more neg camber. I can post up specs when home if helps, but its all in a manual if people of get them.
Factory alignment at normal ride height, and check wheels to frame.
GenII
CAMBER front -0.2 deg +/- 0.2 deg. Rear -0.5 +/- 0.2 deg
Personally on front I find more neg camber is good, for road besides track!
TOE front 0.05 deg in +/- 0.04 (so straight or slight toe in). Rear 0.1 deg in +/- 0.04 deg.
GenIII
CAMBER front -0.25 deg +/- 0.2 deg. Rear -0.65 deg +/- 0.2 deg.
TOE front 0.07deg in +/- 0.05 deg. Rear 0.17 deg in +/- 0.05 deg.
Of course any frame damage and you need to look into bump steer toe patterns also!!!
GenII
CAMBER front -0.2 deg +/- 0.2 deg. Rear -0.5 +/- 0.2 deg
Personally on front I find more neg camber is good, for road besides track!
TOE front 0.05 deg in +/- 0.04 (so straight or slight toe in). Rear 0.1 deg in +/- 0.04 deg.
GenIII
CAMBER front -0.25 deg +/- 0.2 deg. Rear -0.65 deg +/- 0.2 deg.
TOE front 0.07deg in +/- 0.05 deg. Rear 0.17 deg in +/- 0.05 deg.
Of course any frame damage and you need to look into bump steer toe patterns also!!!
Gassing Station | Vipers | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff