How to get decent Squash Photo's
Discussion
I am trying to build up a photo library for our Tennis club.
After a few awful attempts I can now take a reasonable tennis photo in good light outdoors. The problem is, the Squash guys now want some photo's for their website and mail shots. I took some last week of the junior squad and they are pretty awful, cannot seem to freeze the movement with the available light and am unable to get in front of the action to get their faces, racquet and the ball in shot.
Has anybody got any experience of shooting in a squash court or advice on light etc.
Using Canon 20D, EFS 17-85 , and tried with speedlite 580RX to little effect!
Nick
After a few awful attempts I can now take a reasonable tennis photo in good light outdoors. The problem is, the Squash guys now want some photo's for their website and mail shots. I took some last week of the junior squad and they are pretty awful, cannot seem to freeze the movement with the available light and am unable to get in front of the action to get their faces, racquet and the ball in shot.
Has anybody got any experience of shooting in a squash court or advice on light etc.
Using Canon 20D, EFS 17-85 , and tried with speedlite 580RX to little effect!
Nick
Aprisa said:
Using Canon 20D, EFS 17-85 , and tried with speedlite 580RX to little effect!
Nick
I'd sugest a faster lens, you'll need quite a quick shutter speed?Nick
Put the camera on a small gorriala pod/floor tripod in the corner use a long remote release cable, prefocus & get the players to play in the right spot for the shot and try get that 580 off to the side and even beg / borrow/ steal a few more speedlights.
Now that sounds like an interesting project!
Why can't you get in front of them? Obviously not during a game, but someone at a reasonable squash level should easily be able to "fake" a shot while you're sitting low on the plank in front of them.
You need a high shutter speed, so moving the flash off camera is going to be expensive as you'll need HSS in your triggers, so the st-e2, another 580ex, radiopoppers or the new pocketwizards. I'm not sure you can get either here yet.
The 580ex is a powerful flash, so I'm not sure why it can't expose enough. On full power, even bounced off a wall I'd have thought it would help, and lighting in squash courts isn't exactly dim. Do you have a slow lens? Have you tried bumping the iso up a little to help with shutter speed? Can we see some examples so far?
Why can't you get in front of them? Obviously not during a game, but someone at a reasonable squash level should easily be able to "fake" a shot while you're sitting low on the plank in front of them.
You need a high shutter speed, so moving the flash off camera is going to be expensive as you'll need HSS in your triggers, so the st-e2, another 580ex, radiopoppers or the new pocketwizards. I'm not sure you can get either here yet.
The 580ex is a powerful flash, so I'm not sure why it can't expose enough. On full power, even bounced off a wall I'd have thought it would help, and lighting in squash courts isn't exactly dim. Do you have a slow lens? Have you tried bumping the iso up a little to help with shutter speed? Can we see some examples so far?
Edited by jon- on Tuesday 7th July 09:58
Thanks for the replies:-
I have a 70-200 F2.8 that would allow more light in but is too long for in court use (great for tennis). I will try a higher ISO (been reading the manual so better acquainted).
I was on the floor at the front of court but not directly so and they seemed to keep their heads turned, they were enthusiastic juniors so I did not feel brave enough to be directly in front!
It's the ball that is a real problem, they are so bloody quick! I think I may have to resort to hanging it by fishing line or blu-tac to the wall?
I really should have tried a lot of different settings whilst I was there, bit embarrassing having to go back and admit they are all awful shots, never mind good experience for me.
Nick
I have a 70-200 F2.8 that would allow more light in but is too long for in court use (great for tennis). I will try a higher ISO (been reading the manual so better acquainted).
I was on the floor at the front of court but not directly so and they seemed to keep their heads turned, they were enthusiastic juniors so I did not feel brave enough to be directly in front!
It's the ball that is a real problem, they are so bloody quick! I think I may have to resort to hanging it by fishing line or blu-tac to the wall?
I really should have tried a lot of different settings whilst I was there, bit embarrassing having to go back and admit they are all awful shots, never mind good experience for me.
Nick
FWIW, you won't get the ball in the shot, as its simply too small, dark and fast for the level of light in the court, unless you get them to play a drop shot. you jsut won't capture the ball on a drive.
The pro balls are a little easier beause they're white.
Best bet is to pump the IOS right up (and live with the graininess), use the flash and try getting the serve just before they hit it or a close up as they go in for a drop shot.
My 2c worth.
The pro balls are a little easier beause they're white.
Best bet is to pump the IOS right up (and live with the graininess), use the flash and try getting the serve just before they hit it or a close up as they go in for a drop shot.
My 2c worth.
I've never done this personally, but I'd probably try fast shutter speed (but just enough to slightly blur the racket) with low ISO, then shot with a flash. Work out the best setting to make the background dark and just illuminate the player. If you could sit low in front of the player and shoot with wide angle lens, it may produce an interesting result. You may also have to get out of the court (or whatever it's called) to somewhere without the wall right behind them if you just want the player to show. Sounds like an interesting project. Good luck! Looking forward to seeing some shots.
Firstly - if you want some great stock shots, don't try and shoot them while they are playing a game. You'll need to take some time out and get them to pose/repeat actions.
Regarding the light situation a squash court is a pretty good place to be with large white reflective walls. The lighting, most probably halogen/tungsten strip bulbs, is never going to be enough to stop the action. So in this case I suggest using some flash.
Although it's a small outlay I can HIGHLY recommend getting some off camera flash triggering. Cactus eBay kits are approx £15 from China and are worth their weight in gold. With the use of a single (preferably two) flashes off camera you should be able to light the court and/or subject, especially with the use of ambient light.
[The best place to learn about off camera flash on the net is David Hobby at www.strobist.com]
[finger in the air] Set flash to 1/2 or Full pointed at the player/action, Apeture to around 5.6 without issue, ISO200 and shutter down to 1/60 to suck up some ambient and you should be getting a pretty bright action shot in the conditions. [/finger out of air]
My last shoot (4 days) happened to be based in a squash court. Although I was going for the opposite end of the spectrum and trying to get a dark effect, the squash court features did provide a nice background subject.
Regarding the light situation a squash court is a pretty good place to be with large white reflective walls. The lighting, most probably halogen/tungsten strip bulbs, is never going to be enough to stop the action. So in this case I suggest using some flash.
Although it's a small outlay I can HIGHLY recommend getting some off camera flash triggering. Cactus eBay kits are approx £15 from China and are worth their weight in gold. With the use of a single (preferably two) flashes off camera you should be able to light the court and/or subject, especially with the use of ambient light.
[The best place to learn about off camera flash on the net is David Hobby at www.strobist.com]
[finger in the air] Set flash to 1/2 or Full pointed at the player/action, Apeture to around 5.6 without issue, ISO200 and shutter down to 1/60 to suck up some ambient and you should be getting a pretty bright action shot in the conditions. [/finger out of air]
My last shoot (4 days) happened to be based in a squash court. Although I was going for the opposite end of the spectrum and trying to get a dark effect, the squash court features did provide a nice background subject.
plg101 said:
Oh, and if they are juniors (and not your kids), don't forget parental consent + maybe have one of the parents about.
Very good point - I'm CRB checked for kids football & a seperate one for kids Ice Hockey..........for the Ice Hockey I'm forced use 1600asa with a 70-200mm set (manualy) 1/350th sec @ f2.8 + A1 Servo AF & C/W metering - NEVER flash.Even then it can be a little hit & miss when players are aproaching at speed (better focusing when receeding) & dark colours are a definate no-no. If you can dress the players in white/yellow or similar bright colours you should do fine. The lense I use is a pre-digital EF & works out aprox 112-320mm so I'm losing the benefit of 70mm.
I would be inclined to sit on the floor of the court, in one corner with the players facing me.
Most of the senior Hockey games end up like this:
Simpo Two said:
Stickers said:
I'm CRB checked for kids football & a seperate one for kids Ice Hockey...
If you need one for each sport, does that mean you won't (for example) molest children playing football, but might molest them if they play ice hockey?The Mrs helps out on trips with my 8 year old son's school, is welfare officer for the local football club's academy, first aider for kids Ice Hockey & works with kids in the community & she's got a suitcase full of certs!
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