Clutch Fluid change

[gsd2000]

After the drag day my clutch fluid has gone all nasty and black, and i now need to change it.

What is the easiest way of changing the fluid, i've heard that the bleed nipple is a pain to access. Is there an easier way?

I read somewhere that you can simply syringe the old fluid out and pour new fluid in. Is this correct? Is there any chance of airlocks using this method?

Sorry if this sounds stupid but i am still learning, thanks.

[Well_Fans]

I did it last weekend with a couple of syringes - one to remove old gunk, one to inject the new fluid

[gsd2000]

So simply,

remove cap on clutch fluid reservoir,
syringe out old crap,
pour in new fluid,
put cap on clutch fluid reservoir,
job done

[ringram]

Yeah, I changed mine half way through the day. It does make a difference to clutch action.
I also got some motul 6.1 dot stuff, which has a much higher boiling point.

[S600VXR]

Yes you can do the master tank fluid change but IMHO your just saving up a bigger failure since you really need to pump the fluid through the slave to remove the moisture within the old stuff! Its not a recirculating system so you wont "flush" it just by pumping the peddle and renewing the master cyclinder.
bh of a job to do yourself, I looked and gave up. Mr Fish can do mine when its serviced soon.

[gsd2000]

ringram said:

Yeah, I changed mine half way through the day. It does make a difference to clutch action.
I also got some motul 6.1 dot stuff, which has a much higher boiling point.

ringram where did you get your motul 6.1 dot fluid from?

I think i will syringe it out for now and then do a good flush later in the year, once ive had a look at how hard a proper flush is.

[StimBosc]

heres a link to vid and step by step on clutch care www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

[Magic919]

If the black stuff is coming out, so is the fluid with the moisture. No point trying to flush any more than that.

[S600VXR]

StimBosc said:

heres a link to vid and step by step on clutch care http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Am I the only one who understands why this will not flush the system clean? The fluid between the master and the slave does not circulate, yes you will get a little transfer around but nothing like you get if you open up the slave bleed point and pump the master! thats why its there.
The best thing to do is get the G Box moved back and fit a remote bleed line to the slave in place of the stupid hex bar sticking out the side of it!, that way the actual bleed point is at the end of a S/Steel line with a bleed nipple on the end which can be clipped under the bonnet in an easily accessed location. You can then use a vacume bleed setup to easily draw all nice new fluid through the whole setup when ever you like.
It would be nice to think do the pump and replace method only would solve all our woes but it simply wont! You need to replace all the fluid evey two years (minimum) realistically if only to remove all water from the system which can cause corrosion issues inside the master and expecially the slave.

[monkfish1]

S600VXR said:

StimBosc said:

heres a link to vid and step by step on clutch care www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Am I the only one who understands why this will not flush the system clean? The fluid between the master and the slave does not circulate, yes you will get a little transfer around but nothing like you get if you open up the slave bleed point and pump the master! thats why its there.
The best thing to do is get the G Box moved back and fit a remote bleed line to the slave in place of the stupid hex bar sticking out the side of it!, that way the actual bleed point is at the end of a S/Steel line with a bleed nipple on the end which can be clipped under the bonnet in an easily accessed location. You can then use a vacume bleed setup to easily draw all nice new fluid through the whole setup when ever you like.
It would be nice to think do the pump and replace method only would solve all our woes but it simply wont! You need to replace all the fluid evey two years (minimum) realistically if only to remove all water from the system which can cause corrosion issues inside the master and expecially the slave.

[ringram]

gsd2000 said:

ringram said:

Yeah, I changed mine half way through the day. It does make a difference to clutch action.
I also got some motul 6.1 dot stuff, which has a much higher boiling point.

ringram where did you get your motul 6.1 dot fluid from?

I think i will syringe it out for now and then do a good flush later in the year, once ive had a look at how hard a proper flush is.

Did some R&D then found it on ebay for sale. (Motul RBF 600)

I agree its best to flush it out from the bottom, but it does make a difference just pumping it around a bit. Not ideal I know.
My clutch died the first day at the strip. I replaced with the 6.1 stuff as mentioned above and next time out, my clutch worked. About half way through the day it was dead again, another swap and it was ok again. Definately more room for improvement. But given the hassle and cost of a full flush a swap might give you 40% better pedal. Roger can do the other 60% next service

Edited by ringram on Wednesday 8th July 16:04

[Well_Fans]

so how much to have that work done - cant be much more than an hour or two labour plus parts? Suppose it'd be a good idea to have it done at same time as you were changing the clutch?

[ringram]

Yeah Id ask for it to be done each time it goes in for anything, as its a simple tasks if you are already there.
Roger recons its more the clutch at fault than the fluid. I think its a combination of factors. Mine definately improved with the removal of a return spring as well as a swap of fluid. I only missed 2 shifts the whole day.

[StimBosc]

S600VXR said:

StimBosc said:

heres a link to vid and step by step on clutch care www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Am I the only one who understands why this will not flush the system clean? The fluid between the master and the slave does not circulate, yes you will get a little transfer around but nothing like you get if you open up the slave bleed point and pump the master! thats why its there.
The best thing to do is get the G Box moved back and fit a remote bleed line to the slave in place of the stupid hex bar sticking out the side of it!, that way the actual bleed point is at the end of a S/Steel line with a bleed nipple on the end which can be clipped under the bonnet in an easily accessed location. You can then use a vacume bleed setup to easily draw all nice new fluid through the whole setup when ever you like.
It would be nice to think do the pump and replace method only would solve all our woes but it simply wont! You need to replace all the fluid evey two years (minimum) realistically if only to remove all water from the system which can cause corrosion issues inside the master and expecially the slave.

i'll get my coat

Edited by StimBosc on Wednesday 8th July 17:02

[monkfish1]

ringram said:

Yeah Id ask for it to be done each time it goes in for anything, as its a simple tasks if you are already there.
Roger recons its more the clutch at fault than the fluid. I think its a combination of factors. Mine definately improved with the removal of a return spring as well as a swap of fluid. I only missed 2 shifts the whole day.

Its your clutch. If i changed your clutch and didn't touch the hydraulics it would be ok

[ringram]

I may allow you to do that one day Sir...
It depends if Mr S600VXR makes me break mine!

[anonymous-user]

S600VXR said:

StimBosc said:

heres a link to vid and step by step on clutch care www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Am I the only one who understands why this will not flush the system clean? The fluid between the master and the slave does not circulate, yes you will get a little transfer around but nothing like you get if you open up the slave bleed point and pump the master! thats why its there.
The best thing to do is get the G Box moved back and fit a remote bleed line to the slave in place of the stupid hex bar sticking out the side of it!, that way the actual bleed point is at the end of a S/Steel line with a bleed nipple on the end which can be clipped under the bonnet in an easily accessed location. You can then use a vacume bleed setup to easily draw all nice new fluid through the whole setup when ever you like.
It would be nice to think do the pump and replace method only would solve all our woes but it simply wont! You need to replace all the fluid evey two years (minimum) realistically if only to remove all water from the system which can cause corrosion issues inside the master and expecially the slave.

Yep. Did the same for my AP brake install - flushed the whole lot out under low pressure from an air line, then ran meths through and finally air for an hour or so to dry it out. Brake fluid that came out was gungy. Dot 5.1 in 2 years ago and since then no discolouration at all. Brakes perfect.

Would be great to be able to do this for the clutch system. I've had Monkfish do the fluid at services but my clutch doesn't 'feel' as good as it did when new - biting point is higher and it doesn't feel as sharp. Fluid in the resevior has discoloured.

Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 8th July 19:27

[S600VXR]

ringram said:

I may allow you to do that one day Sir...
It depends if Mr S600VXR makes me break mine!

I so hope your coming to the pod...?

[Bull Fullbright]

gsd2000 said:

I read somewhere that you can simply syringe the old fluid out and pour new fluid in. Is this correct?

In a sentence - no! You need a complete fluid change that is bled through, worked a treat on my old beamer.