different dodo juices?
Discussion
I always keep an eye on this forum for tips etc and dodo juice seems to be popular, Im using autoglym SRP on my R1 as the paint is rough so needs a good filler and havent found anythink that works as well on that.
I use built hammber soft clay and auto balm on my TVR with final finish as my polish (although not got around to using it yet)
I was just wondering if its worth trying dodo juice? And was hoping someone could help clarify what all the different colours mean?
I use built hammber soft clay and auto balm on my TVR with final finish as my polish (although not got around to using it yet)
I was just wondering if its worth trying dodo juice? And was hoping someone could help clarify what all the different colours mean?
Dodo Juice waxes plus their associated products do offer pound for pound top results, however there are better waxes out there for longevity, wetness and appearance....the question is how deep are your pockets?
Their marketing philosophy is to call different waxes different names depending upon the colour of your vehicle. One or two of their waxes work well on whites, silvers and lighter blues etc, whilst others work well on dark colours, ie blacks, dark metallics and rich deep colours.
Spend some time on theor website to understand which best suits your needs then find a decent online retailer and spend some money!
Bilt Hamber make a better filler / sealant than Autoglym SRP so have a look at their website too.
Their marketing philosophy is to call different waxes different names depending upon the colour of your vehicle. One or two of their waxes work well on whites, silvers and lighter blues etc, whilst others work well on dark colours, ie blacks, dark metallics and rich deep colours.
Spend some time on theor website to understand which best suits your needs then find a decent online retailer and spend some money!
Bilt Hamber make a better filler / sealant than Autoglym SRP so have a look at their website too.
Bel, the OP is already using Auto-balm.
Being brutally honest, there's nothing Dodo have that in conjunction with it, will add anything. It's either or - LPL and a wax, or just AB.
Going for the former, you'll have very little filling, so the paint will need to be at its best to benefit from the glaze and wax combo, which AB already emulates very, very well plus has the addition of masking lighter scratches, and greater longevity.
Maybe a drop of Red Mist after the weekly wash, but not sure it'll do more than offer a change in beading characteristics.
Being brutally honest, there's nothing Dodo have that in conjunction with it, will add anything. It's either or - LPL and a wax, or just AB.
Going for the former, you'll have very little filling, so the paint will need to be at its best to benefit from the glaze and wax combo, which AB already emulates very, very well plus has the addition of masking lighter scratches, and greater longevity.
Maybe a drop of Red Mist after the weekly wash, but not sure it'll do more than offer a change in beading characteristics.
Edited by PJ S on Tuesday 14th July 13:50
Belleair and pjs both have valid points, and are well educated in these matters. But for clarification on a few points (this may hopefully be of use!)...
1) We made light, warm and dark waxes as well as a couple of general ones because we had light, warm and dark ingredients available (white, yellow and dark beeswax for example). Not because you *have* to use a wax on a specific colour. It's no more necessary that you have to use Banana Armour on yellow paint as it is that all Yorkshiremen have to love Yorkshire puddings. But Banana Armour has 'warm' ingredients in and was created for that colour range, so that's the reason for its existence...
2) There are better products *individually* for durability, sheeting, and maybe looks... but our products are a combination of characteristics and every other wax will have a different mix of characteristics. We place ease of use in a prominent position with the basic waxes. So whilst durability may be a little lower, ease of use could be a little higher. Whilst some products may sheet water a little better, I don't believe anything 'out-beads' even our basic waxes in terms of bead contact angle. So we give the market an easily applied, attractive wax (smells, feels and looks nice) that's substantially natural compared to all the hybrid wax/sealants out there, that looks good (Banana Armour was 'half and halved' on a customer's car with a thousand pound superwax by a pro detailer one time and the punter chose his preferred side as the ongoing wax of choice... he chose BA for the look of it), that are reasonably priced, that bead well and have reasonable durability (synthetics tend to have higher durability if that is of paramount importance). Essentially, our core range gives good 'overall' performance. As 'all-round' waxes go, I believe them to be pretty good
3) Supernatural wax is perhaps the exception to the comment above, as it is a more advanced, higher performing recipe. We have had reports of 4-5 months of durability from it (basically sealant territory) and in terms of beading, sheeting, looks, durability, I truthfully reckon is up there with far more expensive products. I don't think there is a single product that can beat it consistently in all areas, even if one particular product may score a slight victory in one area. (Although I am hardly impartial!). But in all honesty, ease of use is compromised. It is a little trickier to use than the normal waxes and we suggest new customers go with a basic wax first.
4) BH Autobalm is a great product. It'll have good durability and fills very nicely, so works in conjunction with the filling AG SRP very well. It doesn't bead, if that's a concern (or at least my tub doesn't, recipe may have changed since) and it used to smell a little more solventy than our waxes, but again that may have been changed. It's bascially a synthetic product (Al or Pete, correct me if I'm wrong!), and cracking value, but it's another product of value with a different set of characteristics. For pure performance, stick with BH Autobalm as it is very good. If you fancy a change, or maybe want to go a little more 'natural' and see what carnauba can do, maybe try a main range Dodo wax. SN would be chasing down AB on its home turf a bit more, but that is much more expensive than AB and the main range waxes we do. So again, it's what you're after really.
Please note that I represent Dodo Juice so I 'would say that', but I try to be as reasonable and objective as possible, especially regarding high-performing competitor products. Some of the above may help. We'd rather you stuck with Autobalm than risked being disappointed with our products, but then again, I do believe our products have value in terms of what they do and the way they do it. If you ignored them you may also be missing out. It depends what you want from a product.
1) We made light, warm and dark waxes as well as a couple of general ones because we had light, warm and dark ingredients available (white, yellow and dark beeswax for example). Not because you *have* to use a wax on a specific colour. It's no more necessary that you have to use Banana Armour on yellow paint as it is that all Yorkshiremen have to love Yorkshire puddings. But Banana Armour has 'warm' ingredients in and was created for that colour range, so that's the reason for its existence...
2) There are better products *individually* for durability, sheeting, and maybe looks... but our products are a combination of characteristics and every other wax will have a different mix of characteristics. We place ease of use in a prominent position with the basic waxes. So whilst durability may be a little lower, ease of use could be a little higher. Whilst some products may sheet water a little better, I don't believe anything 'out-beads' even our basic waxes in terms of bead contact angle. So we give the market an easily applied, attractive wax (smells, feels and looks nice) that's substantially natural compared to all the hybrid wax/sealants out there, that looks good (Banana Armour was 'half and halved' on a customer's car with a thousand pound superwax by a pro detailer one time and the punter chose his preferred side as the ongoing wax of choice... he chose BA for the look of it), that are reasonably priced, that bead well and have reasonable durability (synthetics tend to have higher durability if that is of paramount importance). Essentially, our core range gives good 'overall' performance. As 'all-round' waxes go, I believe them to be pretty good
3) Supernatural wax is perhaps the exception to the comment above, as it is a more advanced, higher performing recipe. We have had reports of 4-5 months of durability from it (basically sealant territory) and in terms of beading, sheeting, looks, durability, I truthfully reckon is up there with far more expensive products. I don't think there is a single product that can beat it consistently in all areas, even if one particular product may score a slight victory in one area. (Although I am hardly impartial!). But in all honesty, ease of use is compromised. It is a little trickier to use than the normal waxes and we suggest new customers go with a basic wax first.
4) BH Autobalm is a great product. It'll have good durability and fills very nicely, so works in conjunction with the filling AG SRP very well. It doesn't bead, if that's a concern (or at least my tub doesn't, recipe may have changed since) and it used to smell a little more solventy than our waxes, but again that may have been changed. It's bascially a synthetic product (Al or Pete, correct me if I'm wrong!), and cracking value, but it's another product of value with a different set of characteristics. For pure performance, stick with BH Autobalm as it is very good. If you fancy a change, or maybe want to go a little more 'natural' and see what carnauba can do, maybe try a main range Dodo wax. SN would be chasing down AB on its home turf a bit more, but that is much more expensive than AB and the main range waxes we do. So again, it's what you're after really.
Please note that I represent Dodo Juice so I 'would say that', but I try to be as reasonable and objective as possible, especially regarding high-performing competitor products. Some of the above may help. We'd rather you stuck with Autobalm than risked being disappointed with our products, but then again, I do believe our products have value in terms of what they do and the way they do it. If you ignored them you may also be missing out. It depends what you want from a product.
in terms of performance so many of these products seem practically interchangeable that I've ended up selecting my favourites through pleasure to use as much as performance.
The dodo waxes are so much nicer to use than anything else I've tried - particularly in ease of application/buffing and smell that I don't much care if one of the more synthetically engineered products lasts ten minutes longer. Most people who use a forum like this end up washing their cars so frequently that 5 months protection is somewhat irrelevant! and the depth of shine and beading from supernatural is brilliant
I do think Zymol waxes smell absolutely gorgeous, but have found them far less easy to apply.
N
The dodo waxes are so much nicer to use than anything else I've tried - particularly in ease of application/buffing and smell that I don't much care if one of the more synthetically engineered products lasts ten minutes longer. Most people who use a forum like this end up washing their cars so frequently that 5 months protection is somewhat irrelevant! and the depth of shine and beading from supernatural is brilliant
I do think Zymol waxes smell absolutely gorgeous, but have found them far less easy to apply.
N
Cheers N
It is interesting about the 'max' durability required as well.
Wax is a sacrificial layer and should be removed when 'fully' contaminated. For cars left and used outside in industrial areas of the UK, fallout that needs claying from the car could build up in as little as 4-5 months. Maybe even 3 months if you live or work near a steel factory, railway line etc. (For garaged cars in the country, you'll get 6-12 months, of course.) But that means removing the wax, say, at an average of 5-6 months. So a wax doesn't need to last any longer than that in theory. If you want a year or more of durability, spray another layer of clearcoat on the car and be done with it.
And as Nightmare mentions, sometimes you want to wax the car more often anyway. Therapeutic reasons, getting away from the wife and kids for a few hours, whatever
But each to their own. We're working on some sealants as well, but ease of use and 'naturalness' will always be prominent in the Dodo Juice range. It's easy to get sucked into durability and more advanced products that may be harder to apply or less enjoyable to use, for little 'real world' benefit after. (Although for some applications they will be ideal and far better than 'substantially natural' waxes.)
It is interesting about the 'max' durability required as well.
Wax is a sacrificial layer and should be removed when 'fully' contaminated. For cars left and used outside in industrial areas of the UK, fallout that needs claying from the car could build up in as little as 4-5 months. Maybe even 3 months if you live or work near a steel factory, railway line etc. (For garaged cars in the country, you'll get 6-12 months, of course.) But that means removing the wax, say, at an average of 5-6 months. So a wax doesn't need to last any longer than that in theory. If you want a year or more of durability, spray another layer of clearcoat on the car and be done with it.
And as Nightmare mentions, sometimes you want to wax the car more often anyway. Therapeutic reasons, getting away from the wife and kids for a few hours, whatever
But each to their own. We're working on some sealants as well, but ease of use and 'naturalness' will always be prominent in the Dodo Juice range. It's easy to get sucked into durability and more advanced products that may be harder to apply or less enjoyable to use, for little 'real world' benefit after. (Although for some applications they will be ideal and far better than 'substantially natural' waxes.)
Edited by domster on Monday 13th July 21:06
Dodo PH looks schweet on Subaru DBM 
Gave the old man's Scoob a going over on Tuesday ready for the Porsche Summer BBQ on Tuesday. It was the first time Dad had applied any of the Dodo waxes and he commented on how nice it smells, the cracking finish it gave to his car (wouldn't stop going on about it) and most of all how easy it was to apply and how little you needed as it went so far.
Quick pic:
Just to add I find that PH on a silver car warms the tone of the paint up nicely to then be followed with a layer of LF
ETA - look closely at the roof and you can see tiny beads of water from the light rain shower we had.
Gave the old man's Scoob a going over on Tuesday ready for the Porsche Summer BBQ on Tuesday. It was the first time Dad had applied any of the Dodo waxes and he commented on how nice it smells, the cracking finish it gave to his car (wouldn't stop going on about it) and most of all how easy it was to apply and how little you needed as it went so far.Quick pic:
Just to add I find that PH on a silver car warms the tone of the paint up nicely to then be followed with a layer of LF
ETA - look closely at the roof and you can see tiny beads of water from the light rain shower we had.
Edited by mneame on Friday 17th July 12:27
Brett, As soon as you start using the Autobalm, you will want to change to something more user friendly. Bought this product as there was loads of hype about it on detailing World. Used it as per instructions, but found it a horrible product to remove, no i disn't leave it to dry, and took all the joy out of detailing for me. Swiftly sold it on and bought into the zaino range, joy restored. Oh, and its filling abilities didn't live up to the hype too. Possibly the most disapointing product i've ever bought.
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff