Slightly poorly Corrado VR6.

[RadoVR6]

Having a few problems on my 1994 VR. on 90k miles and sorry for the long winded post.

Started stalling a week ago at junctions and when changing gear the revs would fall so fast it would cut out if you didnt change quick enough.

Changed the plugs which made the car run better but would still cut out as above.

Changed the ignition leads but it made no difference so took them back off as they were really bad quality and put my old ones back on.

Unplugged the idle valve and this stopped it stalling so replaced the idle valve and this has stopped the revs falling so quick and can now be driven normally except now at idle it has a slight misfire and can sometimes still stall at junctions but nowhere near as bad as before. Also the idle speed is a little low.

Had the car hooked up to VAG COM tonight and it threw up the fault code from when i had the valve unplugged but nothing else apart from that.

Cleared the fault code a re ran the car and it never came back.

The ignition leads i put back on the car are about 16 months old and were from ECP so 'quite' good quality.

What is the next port of call to check?

I was thinking either the leads need replacing or one is not on quite right which would cause the slight misfire, low idle speed and occasional stall.
A few friends who have had VR's say they go through ignition leads at a yearly rate?

Apart from this the car flies and pulls really strong with no misfires apart from at idle.
Its doing my head in now!!!!!! Grrrrrrr

Any help would be great!!!

Thanks

[_Batty_]

dodgy coil packs?
they are a weak spot on the VR6.

[Ice White Socks]

You need to clean both the throttle body/ butterfly and the ISV in carb cleaner (the ISV is under the engine cover to the right of the throttle body)- I am pretty sure this is your answer :-)

ETA- ISV = Idle Stabilisation Valve

Edit- Sorry I skim read your post a bit- you have changed the ISV already. Mine used to stall and it needed both the throttle body and the ISV cleaning to fix. I guess the new misfire could be due to something you dislodged when changing the ISV? Maybe one of the pipes torn or not seated? Plug lead knocked loose or something?

The coilpacks do go about that kind of mileage- maybe you have fixed the idle and its just bad luck the coilpack has started to go?

Edited by Ice White Socks on Tuesday 14th July 11:09

[RadoVR6]

Ice White Socks said:

You need to clean both the throttle body/ butterfly and the ISV in carb cleaner (the ISV is under the engine cover to the right of the throttle body)- I am pretty sure this is your answer :-)

ETA- ISV = Idle Stabilisation Valve

Edit- Sorry I skim read your post a bit- you have changed the ISV already. Mine used to stall and it needed both the throttle body and the ISV cleaning to fix. I guess the new misfire could be due to something you dislodged when changing the ISV? Maybe one of the pipes torn or not seated? Plug lead knocked loose or something?

The coilpacks do go about that kind of mileage- maybe you have fixed the idle and its just bad luck the coilpack has started to go?

Edited by Ice White Socks on Tuesday 14th July 11:09

I Cleaned the Throttle body first.(Should have mentioned that.)

Would VAG COM not pick up a dodgy coil pack?

[Ice White Socks]

No it wouldn't I'm afraid- not directly. If a coil had gone completely (meaning it would be running on four) then it might force an error onto another sensor but by that point it would be running really bad. They say a good test is to spray a fine water mist onto the coilpack at night and look for sparks.

Given you have changed some stuff around why not disconnect the battery for 30 minutes meaning you effectively reset the ECU- then go for a good drive- you might find it relearns the new set-up better. Or clean the old one out properly and refit that?

[SuperchargedVR6]

Mass Air Flow sensor.

[roosevelt]

Had a similar issue with my Golf VR6, in that it misfired when left cornering as HT lead was shorting out on block. So replaced HT leads, then bout 20k later had similar to you and replaced HT leads (again) and coil pack (not cheap!), then all twas OK. May be worth buying some new leads and trying them, at least you'll have some spare for the next time they're knackered!
Good luck mate

[RadoVR6]

Sorted!

It was a dodgy ignition lead. Looks like more money to shell out

ETA Has anybody got any recommendations for ignition leads?

Edited by RadoVR6 on Tuesday 14th July 22:36

[f1btn]

Magnecor

[aka_kerrly]

Dubpower leads !!
http://dubpower.co.uk/HT%20leads.HTM

They are more expensive than the ECP/GSF style ones but are noticibly thicker and can handle more heat/spark.

A friend had some fitted to his VR6 whilst at Storm Developments having the car rolling roaded as it had a slight misfire as one lead was breaking down at high revs. With the new leads on it not only did he gain power but you could see on the graph the power was smoother to.

Dave

[corozin]

RadoVR6 said:

Sorted!
It was a dodgy ignition lead. Looks like more money to shell out
ETA Has anybody got any recommendations for ignition leads?

This might not be the fashionable thing to say, but frankly get some from German & Swedish. I've never had any problem with mine. I personally think Magnacor are overrated for the price.

[dubber28]

Genuine leads are the best way to go,when i ordered some they said they only sold them seperatley but they do sell them as a kit and are about 70quid which aint to bad for genuine leads