Braided Brake Hoses- Surprising Difference
Braided Brake Hoses- Surprising Difference
Author
Discussion

WOO5IE

Original Poster:

967 posts

228 months

Monday 20th July 2009
quotequote all
I have just fitted new Braided Brake hoses all round and taken the car for a test drive. I know that the system now has new brake fluid and has been completely bled but there is a surprising difference to the feel of the brakes.

The brakes before were OK and I only changed them as I bought the Red Braided hoses some months ago when I changed the Discs and Pads but didnt get round to changing them at the time.

Apart from a pig of a job to change the rear hoses , the main problem was getting the existing brake coupling to screw onto the new brake hose as I just couldn't get the thread started . Both sides

The feel of the brakes is so much firmer on the pedal. Whether they stop any better is another matter, but the feel of them I think makes it a worth while upgrade and for around £50 I am pleased that I did it.

Tip

Cut the old ones off so you can get a ring spanner on the hose end nut and use some cling film on the brake reservoir and screw on the easi bleed top and you dont get brake fluid dripping every where. rotate


Trev

P400PLS

404 posts

258 months

Monday 20th July 2009
quotequote all
Not tried this on a car but this is an accepted upgrade on mountain bike brakes as it improves the feel of the braking system.


ferark

128 posts

225 months

Monday 20th July 2009
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Have the same on my Chimaera, fantastic pedal against rubber hoses. I've had the same done on Elises and other cars. You just seem to know whats happening when you press the pedal, much more progressive.

Stainless hoses = Big thumbs up!

quattrophenia

1,103 posts

229 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all

"Apart from a pig of a job to change the rear hoses"

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread.
I am just at that stage now and have assembled the rear O/S corner. I only had 10 minutes left to swap the old brake hose for the Goodridge steel ones and I have to say I couldn't even get a spanner on either of the nuts behind the retaining plate, and they looked just as inaccessible from underneath the car.
Anyone got any tips on how to access these nuts and complete what should be a 5 minute job?

Just one more query if I may. When I bleed the system is it always neccessary to bleed the master cylinder or does bleeding the 4 calipers usually do the job?

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
A proper six flat brake spanner is a good investment. Master cylinder doesn't have a nipple, start bleeding the furthest caliper then work your way towards the closest.

roysum

961 posts

220 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
A proper six flat brake spanner is a good investment. Master cylinder doesn't have a nipple, start bleeding the furthest caliper then work your way towards the closest.
I think you will find the master cylinder has got a bleed nipple
wink

Roy

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
roysum said:
BliarOut said:
A proper six flat brake spanner is a good investment. Master cylinder doesn't have a nipple, start bleeding the furthest caliper then work your way towards the closest.
I think you will find the master cylinder has got a bleed nipple
wink

Roy
Yours might, TVR's are unique biggrin

I'll rephrase that, my master cylinder hasn't got a bleed nipple...

roysum

961 posts

220 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
Yours might, TVR's are unique biggrin

I'll rephrase that, my master cylinder hasn't got a bleed nipple...
At least that saves you the trouble of getting at it, a right PITA !!

quattrophenia

1,103 posts

229 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
I hope mine doesn't have one as it sounds a PITA to do.
Apparently lowering the front of the car slightly allow's the air to escape? If my brake pedal is soft after bleeding the calipers would this work and save me doing open wing surgery!?

roysum

961 posts

220 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
quattrophenia said:
I hope mine doesn't have one as it sounds a PITA to do.
Apparently lowering the front of the car slightly allow's the air to escape? If my brake pedal is soft after bleeding the calipers would this work and save me doing open wing surgery!?
Just make sure your MC is topped up, I let mine get too low that's when the fun and games started. I presume you realise the MC bleed nipple is accessible (sort of) through the clutch MC cover.

R

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
Eazibleed is your friend, bleeds without the MC being operated biggrin

WOO5IE

Original Poster:

967 posts

228 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
If you put cling film over the master cylinder and replace cap then you shouldnt lose too much fluid so makes bleeding easier. I had no problems using Easibleed

roysum

961 posts

220 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
WOO5IE said:
If you put cling film over the master cylinder and replace cap then you shouldnt lose too much fluid so makes bleeding easier. I had no problems using Easibleed
I'm being thick again ! if you put cling film over the MC, how is the fluid being replaced when bleeding and how can you use the eezibleed ? Doesn't the eezibleed have another cap for the MC with a tube attached for pressurised fluid ? ears

smile

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
roysum said:
WOO5IE said:
If you put cling film over the master cylinder and replace cap then you shouldnt lose too much fluid so makes bleeding easier. I had no problems using Easibleed
I'm being thick again ! if you put cling film over the MC, how is the fluid being replaced when bleeding and how can you use the eezibleed ? Doesn't the eezibleed have another cap for the MC with a tube attached for pressurised fluid ? ears

smile
Stops the fluid leaking out when you remove the flexible lines, keeping the MC charged.

WOO5IE

Original Poster:

967 posts

228 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2011
quotequote all
You then remove clingfilm when new hoses are in place and put on Easibleed kit.

I alos made sure that enough fluid came out if the caliper bleed niples to ensure all the old fluid was replaced by new.

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

275 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2011
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When removing a caliper (for example), can you use hose clamps or will they crush the stainless braiding?

EggsBenedict

1,796 posts

205 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2011
quotequote all
WOO5IE said:
I alos made sure that enough fluid came out if the caliper bleed niples to ensure all the old fluid was replaced by new.
if you use this stuff: http://www.k300performance.co.uk/brakes/brake-flui... it's easy to see when you replace the fluid because it's blue! They also make it in amber for the next time you do it....

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2011
quotequote all
EggsBenedict said:
WOO5IE said:
I alos made sure that enough fluid came out if the caliper bleed niples to ensure all the old fluid was replaced by new.
if you use this stuff: http://www.k300performance.co.uk/brakes/brake-flui... it's easy to see when you replace the fluid because it's blue! They also make it in amber for the next time you do it....
I'm treating the E39 to some ATE and some Goodrich hoses this weekend after the difference in feel it made on the Griff biggrin

Derek Smith

50,013 posts

279 months

Thursday 24th March 2011
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quattrophenia

1,103 posts

229 months

Friday 25th March 2011
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Yikes,
Well I had another look at those 'bleeding' rear brake lines and I have left them for another day. Still got plenty of suspension to install, but the time will come when I run out of jobs and have to remove them.
How have other people got at the retaining nuts on the back of the mounting plate, from the front or from under the car? would a very short spanner be better? I cant even get a set of grips in there to crack the nuts confused very annoying.